Bluewulf73

Im not too fram from WA so I will attend wherever. Maybe even try n get one going in BC and meet those is WA?

Do you have an anti-thef device, one with a kill switch? Mine's acted up now and again. Lose wire there might cause waht you're experiencing.

Make sure your battery terminals are tight, re-check the wiring you did. From the lights to the connections and everything in between. Check your charging system by checking your voltage at the battery with the car started. If I remember correctly it should be between 12-14 V. If not, you have a bad alternator and/or battery. I once took my car to the shop and after getting it back it would die when accelerating hard. The positive terminal would pull away from the - battery post. immediately after braking/slowing down, the car would re-start/catch again. Mechanic never re-installed the terminal on the post, just had it sitting next to it, touching it so everything would be fine until I accelerated.

Nice find!

Grrr..anticipation = don't make us wait much longer... BTW, I just thought you should know that those rims are my favourite OEM Pathfinder rims for the R50.

Wow this thread is soo off topic... I feel like I just watched fifteen minutes in youtube Loved the Jurassic Pope though and the T-rex kicking a$$ is till one of my favourites... Since we are now on the jurassic theme...my kids' favourite JurassicPark Back on track now... Military ones:

Yah, no worries. I already researched the snot out of "Distributor Change on R50s". I don't have a timing light andI don't want to have to pay to get the car towed or fixed so yeas, marking everything and photographing is high on the agenda. WHo knows, I might just do a video tutorial again. Time to brush up on my automotive parts-speak. Oh, when I find the fix for this problem, I will be posting it. I will be so happy to get rid of this issue, it will be posted for everyone to see, read, hear, etc., etc., etc.

Well, kind of...what do S/C Xterra's use? I mean, they can't be using piping much larger than what we have, especially given the "modest" HP bump. If one uses the stock configuration with 2" piping all the way back from the headers, (assuming one gets headers) then it should provide a decent increase without losing much torque, if any. In my 4-bangers, I always changed the puny 1 7/8" for a 2.5" from the header back and although I did lose some low-end grunt, the gains were well worth it. Also, believe it or not, I did see an increase in MPG while cruising on the hwy. (Note that I said cruising, please) Having said that, In this truck, I would not want to lose the low-end grunt and would be happy with just a tiny bit of increase at higher rpms. So, I'm still voting for stock configuration with 2" piping. Magnaflow muffler and either no resonator out back or a cherry-bomb, just to quiet things down...a bit. I am currently running stock everything, except for the end resonator. Just straight piped that one and the sound is great. Not loud enough to hear while driving but loud enough to hear it at idle and low speed cruising in alleyways.

I think my LE has a plastic cover on the dead pedal...not too sure. I'll check and either confirm or deny later.

I currently have 30X9.5X15 and have tested 31X10.5X15 on the truck. They fit no problem. (other than rubbing in reverse) I have aftermarket 15" wheels with 3.75" Backspacing. My original wheels couldn't fit anything larger than the 235/75/15's it came with so, as shoes stated, it is more about the backspacing on your wheels than the actual tire size (unless you are trying to get monster mudders in there) Try this. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html It might give you an idea as to the difference in sizes between the 245, 265 you mentioned and a 31" tire. 245/65R17 = 29.5X9.7R17 265/65R17 = 30.6X10.4R17 265/70R17 = 31.6X10.4R17 Got the above measurements from here...shoes was ROM! http://tire-size-conversion.com/how-to-read-tire-size/

All I have to say is 1 day left to a *hopefully* beautiful long weekend.

Good to know you're all safe. Heard about it here too... The biggest twister I've seen in person rattled my dog's brain a bit. Not even big enough to lift his 40 lb body off the ground. Any of those would've made me run for cover like a little girl. Holy Moly!!!!! Where's da beer? That's big enough to keep one for each of us nice 'n cool. Sheesh, that's like something outta the 2012 movie. On a more serious note, my condolences to those who lost anyone,were injured or left homeless through this disaster.

So, been looking around for a replacement distributor.(The one on Amazon cannot be delivered to Richmond, or Canada for that matter. So, I've gone looking for replacement distributors in local stores (Lordco, Canadian Tire, NAPA, Vancouver Auto Parts, ETC.) The average price is $350.00. Highest price quoted was $500.00, lowest was $249.00. WTF So went on Ebay and found some (claimed as new) for $80.00 all in all, after taxes and shipping, $114.00 Happy, once again.

Put the Pathy on a hoist today and found a couple of loose bolts. nothing dangerous, just a tiny bit loose. Driver's side of my missing link, passenger LCA, three bolts. Now no issues. I am happy.

how about this?

I love the Kamaz and Mann trucks (this one even more) Those things'll go through just about everything! Lots of 'em used for rallyes and such... HMOG!!!

Assuming you've made sure there are no codes, you are sure the lightbulb is not just burn out, and the transmission does not, in fact go into OD, you might want read below. I don't think there are any fuses for this...might be worth a check though. Mine went so I had to take the shifter assembly apart. Wire disconnected there. It is a tiny wire running up the shifter. I guess 15 years of shifting were enough for that tiny little thing. Find the interior section in the FSM and figure out how to disassemble the centre console. If theWD21's are the same as the R50s in this regard, you should see a little wire running up to the shifter column then up the shifter. In mine, it came undone right at the button. I am guessing the same could happen to yours; either came undone right at the button, or at the base. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I am not familiar with the WD21's.

Hmmn. Overlooked that part. THanks again!

Ok, so opened up my distributor and other than some rusty spots and some signs of water ingress, I see not much wrong here. I've attached some photos. I also wiggled the post to check for excessive play. Nothing excessive found so I checked the connector and seal. The seal is broken (probably how the water got in) but the connector was relatively clean and there is no rust, only a tiny bit of dust. About 2" away from the connector, it appears that the person who installed the kill-switch on the truck, took its signal from the blue wire on the distributor connector. It is soldered but the tape keeping it clean had seen better days so I took a brush to it and re-taped the connection. I also checked the ground leading from the battery ground to the body (immediately after the battery, about 6" off the post) and it had been removed from the body because the battery is taller. Anyway, I attached it to the battery tray in hopes that makes a difference as well. Checked the alternator and, although a bit dirty, there is no excessive build up so I no longer think the brushes inside would be causing the issue (anyone think so?) In any case, I will take a brush and vacuum to it later. Hopefully it makes a difference. After the brief work I did on YoDa, It started more easily ( not counting my eggs yet)..but as I was climbing a hill, it hesitated a couple of times . Anyone think it worth replacing the distributor, judging by what you see above? If not, next thing to check is the fuel pressure.

Funny you should mention angles. Last time my ride was on the rack I checked out the CV angles and the steering rack angles; the steering rack angles were not nearly as pronounced. The steering rack sits a bit lower than the inboard CV and halfshaft so I'm not convinced that is the problem. Additionally, I checked them for play and found no play at all. Now, please bear with me as my puny Mexican brain is burning itself up while processing the fllowing: When I brake or accelerate, the forces would rotate whatever is making the noise by putting pressure at a vertical and some horizonal angles, I was thinking steering rack bushings for this reason...as I brake, the bushings give and the rack would impact the SFD wall. Now, add to that the fact that I can feel it strongest right under my left foot, (I have yet to check positioning, in relation to my left foot, etc) indicates to me that it would be either the driver's side rack bushing, driver's side missing link mounting point, driver's side anti-swaybar link or driver's side anti-swaybar bushing being loose or broken. I will be checking those out today and see if I can find the culprit. If I don't see anything on the driver's side, I will then allow my investigation to migrate to the passenger side.

Helmet won't help when someone lands on you... actaully, neither will a chair for that matter...sorry, I'm an OHS guy at heart.

Welcome to the forum! I joined because the first Pathfinder I saw modified was an Aussie one and I wanted some! Great bunch of people here. I came, I stayed, I love it! As those above me said, pics, please...

Awesome, thank you much. I'll hit up the wreckers later this week.

Thanks bushnut. I don't hate me truck, hate's comin from me other half . Actually, she's taking pretty well. I'll look into the fuel pressure and distributor first and go from there.