Bluewulf73

Put the Pathy on a hoist today and found a couple of loose bolts. nothing dangerous, just a tiny bit loose. Driver's side of my missing link, passenger LCA, three bolts. Now no issues. I am happy.

Assuming you've made sure there are no codes, you are sure the lightbulb is not just burn out, and the transmission does not, in fact go into OD, you might want read below. I don't think there are any fuses for this...might be worth a check though. Mine went so I had to take the shifter assembly apart. Wire disconnected there. It is a tiny wire running up the shifter. I guess 15 years of shifting were enough for that tiny little thing. Find the interior section in the FSM and figure out how to disassemble the centre console. If theWD21's are the same as the R50s in this regard, you should see a little wire running up to the shifter column then up the shifter. In mine, it came undone right at the button. I am guessing the same could happen to yours; either came undone right at the button, or at the base. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I am not familiar with the WD21's.

Hmmn. Overlooked that part. THanks again!

Ok, so opened up my distributor and other than some rusty spots and some signs of water ingress, I see not much wrong here. I've attached some photos. I also wiggled the post to check for excessive play. Nothing excessive found so I checked the connector and seal. The seal is broken (probably how the water got in) but the connector was relatively clean and there is no rust, only a tiny bit of dust. About 2" away from the connector, it appears that the person who installed the kill-switch on the truck, took its signal from the blue wire on the distributor connector. It is soldered but the tape keeping it clean had seen better days so I took a brush to it and re-taped the connection. I also checked the ground leading from the battery ground to the body (immediately after the battery, about 6" off the post) and it had been removed from the body because the battery is taller. Anyway, I attached it to the battery tray in hopes that makes a difference as well. Checked the alternator and, although a bit dirty, there is no excessive build up so I no longer think the brushes inside would be causing the issue (anyone think so?) In any case, I will take a brush and vacuum to it later. Hopefully it makes a difference. After the brief work I did on YoDa, It started more easily ( not counting my eggs yet)..but as I was climbing a hill, it hesitated a couple of times . Anyone think it worth replacing the distributor, judging by what you see above? If not, next thing to check is the fuel pressure.

Funny you should mention angles. Last time my ride was on the rack I checked out the CV angles and the steering rack angles; the steering rack angles were not nearly as pronounced. The steering rack sits a bit lower than the inboard CV and halfshaft so I'm not convinced that is the problem. Additionally, I checked them for play and found no play at all. Now, please bear with me as my puny Mexican brain is burning itself up while processing the fllowing: When I brake or accelerate, the forces would rotate whatever is making the noise by putting pressure at a vertical and some horizonal angles, I was thinking steering rack bushings for this reason...as I brake, the bushings give and the rack would impact the SFD wall. Now, add to that the fact that I can feel it strongest right under my left foot, (I have yet to check positioning, in relation to my left foot, etc) indicates to me that it would be either the driver's side rack bushing, driver's side missing link mounting point, driver's side anti-swaybar link or driver's side anti-swaybar bushing being loose or broken. I will be checking those out today and see if I can find the culprit. If I don't see anything on the driver's side, I will then allow my investigation to migrate to the passenger side.

Awesome, thank you much. I'll hit up the wreckers later this week.

Thanks bushnut. I don't hate me truck, hate's comin from me other half . Actually, she's taking pretty well. I'll look into the fuel pressure and distributor first and go from there.

Thans for our explanation ferrariowner, I think I can visualize what you are saying. My problem was I had no idea the R50 could be had with two different types of mast. Mine, unfortunately is of the powered variety. (even searching for antenna replacement online, sourced only replaceent powered masts, go figure) If these come with solid masts, I'll try to source an XE mast/base to replace the powered mast/base after that, I'll just screw on the floppy I got at CT. Sorry to hear you are going through a rough time. Hope everything works out and you do better.

I am starting to get stumbling under load. Funny enough, it almost feels like the pathy is climbing a set of stairs. Even when looking at the rev-counter. It climbs, pauses, climbs, pauses, climbs...everytime it pauses, I can feel the hesitation. It happens 99% of the time, when the engine is warm (its happened to me twice where the engine stalled completely when cold) Ok well, I'll take a look at the fuel pressure and the distributor. Thanks for chiming in on this rebelord. I'd heard that the ditributors in these cars are finicky but had only heard of one case where the distributor was the actual culprit.

Aight, So, I've been reading up on the dreaded clunk experienced by several pathy owners on this forum and tomorrow (becasue tonight is just too late, dark and wet outside) I will check the items typed in way below. But before I start mentioning those, here are my "symptoms" and what has been replaced within the last year. Symptoms Loud clunk on braking or accelerating (felt on left foot, false pedal) Not-so-loud clunk on left/right turns (felt on right heel) Not-so-lout clunk on sped bumps (felt faintly on right heel) I have been getting this clunk since about 1/2 months ago, when I updated/upgraded my suspension. Items replaced/added, front suspension: Ball joints (1 year ago, OEM) Anti-swaybar bushings (1 year ago, OEM) Anti-swaybar links (1 year ago, OEM) Struts, bearings, springs (1/2 month ago - KYB, OEM, OME) Added missing link (1/2 month ago) Added steel bash plate (1/2 month ago - Fleurys') Added 1" spacers (1/2 month ago - Nx4) Added Manual Hubs (4 days ago) Items replaced/added, rear suspension: Upper control arms (2 months ago, OEM) Lower control arms (2 months ago, OEM) Bumpstops (2 months ago, OEM) Rear panhard bar bushings (2 months ago, OEM) Rear shocks and springs (1/2 month ago Old Man Emu) 1" spring base spacer (1/2 month ago - Fleurys') What I need to check: Re-torque: Bash Plate Missing link Check: Balljoints Halftshaft CV's - I know the passenger boot had pulled off slightly (see "Help, axleshaft binding") but the original one is in there right now and there has not been any noise or vibration coming from that shaft. Anti-swaybar links (maybe a nut is loose - was not tightened properly after the lift?) Anti-swaybar bushings (Maybe the extra stress has loosened one of the nuts on the retainers?) Steering rack bushings (never changed, could be the culprit) If I am missing anything, please let me know.

So, not sure where my posts are but some of you might remember my posts on the issues I was having re: stalling and stumbling while at idle. Brief recap: Pathy started stumbling and stalling wihle at idle at intersections and red-lights. - Changed Air FIlter - Cleaned MAF - Cleaned TB - add high idle to the stumbling and stalling - Cleaned and lubed the AICV - Changed plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor No change so it is sent to Nissan Canada (stealership for repair) They told me it was the AICV - Changed AICV - Issue still present, high idle is fixed Dealership believes it is either the TPS or some highly unlikely, obscure item inside or under the IM (approximately $1500 fix)- TPS is cheapest so that was next on the list - TPS is changed Get truck back from stealership. No stalling for about five days. Then stumbling but not stalling about once per day, still at idle/intersections. Lately, with the weather warming up stumbling is more pronounced and has stalled about three times in the past two weeks. It stumbles almost to stalling about three times per day while at idle. Engine catches the stumbling and revs to around 2500 rpm then everything normalizes. Throughout this entire ordeal, I have not had the engine light come on one single time. Other symptoms I have noticed: When I fill up it acts up for about half tank then it acts as good as new. - Changed the fuel filter. Did not help I am thinking it is either the fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator. When the pathy starts stumbling, it feels the same as when a car stumbles as it is running out of fuel. Lately, the car hesitates as well, while accelerating. Something else that makes me wonder...it is getting harder and harder to start the car and the bettery dies pretty quickly (took only 20 minutes for it to die with just some music on) - Battery and starter was changed last year. I am wondering if going through those water crossings fouled up my alternator enough to cause these symptoms. I am getting fed up with this issue as I just spent on new suspension and I can't go too far as I am affraid the car won't start once I am in the boonies... Just wondering if any of you would care to point me in the right direction. I am thinking replacing the fuel pump simply because replacing the fuel pressure regulator would be difficult as I, once again, would have to remove the IM. (replacing the fuel pump should be easier, I think) So, things I could replace that will, hoepfully make a difference: Alternator (upgrade, perhaps?) Fuel pump (found a good used one for $80) fuel pressure regulator (PITA, POS, ) Distributor (i've read somewhere it was the culprit) PCM (I've read elswhere this was found to be the culprit) Any and all comments (other than get rid of it and get something else) are welcome.

Probably safest to lift one side at a time. OEM jack is too narrow and yes, you risk ahving the truck tip to one side.

don't make us wait too long...

I hear ya on the quirks. For me its been this darn axle and my freakin' home LAN. Router hates me. Nothing works proper when I want it to. Grrrrr. On a bright note, found some time to install the manual hubs today. Even had enough time to make videos and take photos for a video write-up. when done I'll post it.

I am hoping my manual hubs will make a difference...once Ihave time to get them in...

https://m.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=362246097210855&id=100002764044426&set=a.292934007475398.53535.100002764044426&__user=100002764044426[img/] Photo of what I am left with...

Ok, so I removed my power antenna mast today and now I have a big hole; nothing for the replacement fixed antenna mast to hold on to... and my little girl decided she would ride her bike over the old mast . So, if anyone with a replacement fixed mast can help by taking a photo of your set-up and how you managed to have the antenna mast stay put in the massive hole left by the now defunct powered mast, I would appreciate it greatly! Ugh...I tell ya, sometimes it is obvious where my kids got their "manos de caca"...

So what you are saying is the only part of the base replaced is the silver/chrome part and antenna post?

So, if I am understanding you correctly, to do the swap, one would need to get: Corner lights, headlights, grill and hood to fit the QX4 grill? Thank for checking this out, BTW

hey ferrariowner123, Did you have a powered one previously? Do you have any close-up and personal type photos of the transformation, or just the floppy antenna? My antenna is acting up and I was thinking of replaceing it with the floppy one too but since the base for the powered one hangs off the edged of the fender, I dont know how it fits without leaving a drooping hole. Thanks in advance.

Ditto here. 1-2 rough, 2-3 slow, 3-OD smooth. Donwshifting is rough and hard... ...no matter what gear...

I read somewhere on someone's post (don't think it was this forum) that the bags got covered in grit and that combined with extreme flexing of the suspension heped ahnialtate them more quickly. I am sorry, I don't remember where I read that. I also don't remember if the person that posted aired them down a bit or kept them full. Not sure what kid of wheeling you do but keep in mind that the stiffer your suspension, the less flex you are going to get and you will lose traction to one of the wheels. Especially imortant if you have no LSD in the rear. Spend on a spring set. OME HD/MD or if you want to lift your truck AC 2" lift. If you really want to lift it, then get the SFD with WJ rear coils. All three options provide you with rear coils stiffer than what is in the truck OEM. If you don't do heavy wheeling and tow lots, then they might be right for you.