Bluewulf73

Really? 3.8L V6 Mustangs? I mean, I can see the Qx4, Frontier and Xterra (all with a 3.3L) and maybe even the Villager ( I think also a 3.3L, if I'm not mistaking but a Mustang? Wow! I need to get out more...

Good reason for which these guys use it for their platform. Pretty impressive for a work truck.

Update: I asked the techs at the dealership and they said: It is very unlikely the cat is clogged unless: Bad fuel is used regularly There is an issue with the head-gasket (fouling up the cat with oil) Rotten egg or sulfuric smell can be due to bad fuel (as mentioned above) The likelyhood that the vehicle would stall and not start due to a clogged cat is nearly impossible. Rough running could signify a bad o2 sensor but more likely a MAF sensor. Recommendations: Start with the simplest stuff: Check the MAF Check vacuum lines Check all the leads and sparkplugs Check the distributor, cap and rotor Replace O2 sensors causing code(s) Check temp before and after the cat(s) - Should be uniform (nearly the same temperature at the inlet and outlet, if temperature at outlet is lower than inlet then the cat is not working optimally. (If you have a two-way reader) check the voltage on the O2 sensors (inlet sensor should be reading quick changes in voltage, outlet sensor should remain at near the .4, .5, .6, .7 volts and fluctuate slowly only) If outlet sensor reads low voltage and quick fluctutations it is bad. Ofcourse they recommended using Nissan spec parts as opposed to other brands...but well, we do what we can, right? Other things that can kill a cat-converter: Impacts Rapid immersion in cold water Interestingly, I was told that a customer (with a 2000 maxima) experiencing a similar issue, stumbling, stalling, not starting recently went to the service department. It was diagnosed as a MAF. The customer had it changed by another mechanic and it ran rough so Nissan had to perform some kind of ECU re-learning as (apparently six different types of MAF can be used in the 2000 Maxima, depending on engine & transmission choices) Thankfully, the service tech I spoke with doesn't seem to think the Pathy's have the same issue. (only one type of MAF for all 3.3L V6) N-E way, hope this helps.

Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now... Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this. This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor. Hey Timmons, I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive)

That sounds eerily similar to what my car is doing...it has gotten worse, except my car will start...for now. I've changed pretty much the same parts you have changed, except for the distributor and fuel pump. The car stumbles and shakes and while this is happening, it runs richer than Trump. To the point I can see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, as if it were a diesel. I also get a strange smell, not of rotten eggs but just very heavy spent fuel smell. I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, TPS, AICV and ordered a new distributor, new fuel pump, new MAF and all four O2 sensors from Rock Auto yesterday. Hopefully they'll be here soon. You make a good point though jayjay6888, what if it is caused by clogged cats? ​ I'll have to ask at my stealership to see if they would know... Hmmmmnn...

I'd hate to be behind one that flips...just gives you a real-life glimpse of your future as you head to your doom without being able to do anything about it. Still, funny when it happens to others...

Looks awesome! Photo angles can be very deceiving with respect to measurements and distances. Still, I can tell the difference between this shot and the one you posted with your new tires. Congratulations. You are well on your way to becoming a modification addict. It is intoxicating!

I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit. I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something) There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling. I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.

That's that monster kart, right? They have videos of it doing the 1/4 mile against a KTM X-bow and a Yamaha V-Max...caraazy! Kicks butt! I totally expected the cop car to turn around but then again, he and his kart are so small, the cop might not have even seen him...

It would be nice...problem is that wreckers here gouge everyone on everything... Set of flares for my 98, without hardware...$100/flare...used, off a wreck.

I have had the hubs on for only two weeks and I am noticing a difference of about 50-55 km/tank and that is in the city, with the RTT on top. To me that is HUGE. So, yes, you will notice a difference and daily driving, the Pathy is easier to drive, especially in tight U or three-point-turns.

I think what you are referring to is this. MAF FIX It seems to work on the VQ engines. I did not find anything for the VG33. I am just going to try and get one from a wrecker (unless they ask for stupid $$) then I'll look into alternatives. Maybe someone else can chime in if they have actually done a maxima VQ MAF to VG33 swap.

Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature... Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.) I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car... I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week.

We have a Princess auto around 45 min. away from me. I might just wander over, fall in the store and come out with a timing light...

NOt yet. It hasn't acted up for a while (until this afternoon) so I have not been able to get any kind of reading I still think its my dist. or fuel pump. My friend seems to think it might be a fouled-up O2 sensor. His reasoning for this is that the Pathy runs very rich while it stumbles and stalls... Still, no codes at all which make this job very confusing. I already ordered my replacement Dist. and will pick up a replacement fuel pump soon too. Both are things I can easily replace at home. I am going to do one at a time so I can get definitive answers. I'll post up once parts are changed.

This kind of mud is very funny to watch people get stuck in but very dangerous. Especially when found floundering in a place like Turnagain arm near Anchorage AK, with the tide coming in at lightning speed. There are records of people getting stuck and drowning because they could not get free before the tide rolled in. Lucky "Bill" is not in a place like that. Still, you can see how quickly he was sinking and how difficult it was for him to climb and /or actually get pulled out. On a different note, the mud around here smells like shiznit and is sticky as heck thanks to the underlay of shifty clay.

Happy Belated Birthday!

I will be using a set of LED light as DRL's once I iron out the projector...project Funny - those w/o DRL's want them, lots with DRL's want them gone...

When I replaced my rear LCA and UCA the ride did seem (visually) a bit higher and it definitely felt tighter. After things loosened up, YoDa once again became a saggy bottom boy. (take that last comment as you may) My rear CA's were completely shot and were replaced with brand new ones, along with all rear bumpstops. My shocks and springs were all replaced because they were shot after 200,00 km. Chaces are your ride will once again look lower at the rear once the bushings losen up a bit. After that, you'll have to decide whether you want to replace your springs or add a helper air spring. If you add the helper spring, make sure you enlarge the hole the hose is going to go through, (as stated in on of the prevous posts) but do it enough to be able to use a ruber grommet to protect your hoses from chafing on the metal ends. You should be able to get the grommets from any automotive parts store. Doing it right the first time should give you years of enjoyment and use out of your air springs. (Even with the OME lift, I am thinking of adding the air bags to help with the exttra weight I carry in the rear on our long tirips)

lookin' great!

Yup got them here in canada. check the fuse, relay, n' box beside the battery. I unplugged my DRL's from there, then the box fell off its holder causing a short. put it back in its place and changed the fuse, everything's fine now. Checked it and returned it to its unplugged state. unplugged then 'cause i was thinking of getting sum HIDs. Not 'till i can find them projectors though...

Great idea! I have been toying with the idea of attending this http://www.overlandexpo.com/ next year but I'd be just as insterested in GONE MOAB in 2014. A strong NPORA showing would take the cake too. I got permission to attend the Expo, now to convince her that both events are totally worth it!