Bluewulf73

i thought it was sefl-adjusting...?

Looks good Darek! I forgot to recommend that you bleed the system. I hope you bled your brake system. If you haven't replaced the fluid for a while, (40,000 KM or more) I would recommend using new fluid and bleeding. Not too sure about a flush, but for sure, using new fluid and bleeding the system to get rid of air bubbles which could cause a squishy pedal feel, uneven braking and even overheating of the brake system. Is that copper compound on the hub face to prevent it and the drum from rusting and sticking to each other?

if only you'd posted one month earlier...would've even met you or dropped them off somewhere in WA...

Hey, you went to the school of hard knocks too? Cool! -Especially if you throw the word shaft in there...

No tooslwforgr, it means you'll have to stop, throw it into park, get outta yer rig (unless you get ur friend/girl to do it for ya), flip the hubs, get back in, put your seatbelt on (unless yo like to live life on the edge of your seat) THEN, put it into 4wd high (or LOW). Nothing really changes, except for the fact that you have to stop to flip the hubs BEFORE engaging 4wd. Once the hubs are angaged/locked you can take it out and put it back into 4WD as many times as you want, wherever you want/need to. Don't forget to unlock them when finished wheelin' or you poor MPG and added stress to halshafts will come back.

Whoa! That looks awesome! I think the flares add a nice flair to it... Personally, I would keep the flares on...the truck looks more...uhmnn...complete. I always wanted to put flares on my Pathy but never found them at the price I wanted them. Then again, if you're going to do some heavy wheelin' keep them off and save them a nasty death. Them 33's look gnarly!

Similar to the issue I had... As bushnut states 1 of 3 things. Check: Air - Intake hose, Throttle body (for cleanliness), vacuum lines, (as many as you can - there are some hidden under the plenum) PCV valve, AIC valve (Air intake control, hidden under the plenum as well) Electrical - Battery leads, distributor cap, rotor, wires (make sure none have popped off or are loose), MAF sensor (may need a cleaning), TPS sensor, battery voltage when vehicle off and when charging ( charging should be around 14. sum'n volts) no problems starting so don't think you need to look at the starter. (Have you replaced anything electrical recently? (plugs, sensors, etc? Check those) timing... Fuel - Fuel filter, evaporative discharge cannister might be plugged, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator (under the plenum). Also, have you filled up with fuel from a different gas station recently? do you experience any pinging or hesitation at all? These trucks are very finicky when it comes to the kind of fuel they drink. Lastly, check your accessory belts. Are they all there? Are you getting any whine/squeal from any of them? Could mean its not spinning the alternator as it should, preventing a full charge. My issue turned out to be too much un-metered (after the MAF and TPS) air into the engine, causing it to run too rich and stall. Good luck! Hope you find the issue sooner, rather than later. Oh, yeah...just 'cause you don't have an engine light on, does not mean your car doesn't have a soft-code. Get yourself a code reader and check for them codes... Ask me how I know...

Darek, .you've already taken it apart...in my opinion, if you have the cash and know-how do a complete, thorough cleaning of the entire brake; (on both sides/both rear brakes) as you are cleaning, make a list of what needs to be replaced. As part of your cleaning, take a wire brush to every part; if things are very rusty (such as the springs shown) make a point to replace them, check the adjustment cable and ensure to replace rusty hardware (nuts and bolts) Keep in mind this is for safety and safety should come first. Replace the same things on both sides, don't skimp. I.E.- If you replace springs on one side, do it on the other, even if the other springs look better than the first. New springs will be stronger than old ones so your braking performance might suffer if your braking forces are uneven due to the differenc between new and old springs. It looks like your piston is damaged so you will need to replace it. Again, my recommendation, if you are able to, would be to replace both. Usually when one goes, the other is not far behind (except when there has been deliberate damage) Usually, unless the shoes are fairly new and/or completely undamaged, drum and shoes are replaced together. Look for and think of uneven wear of the shoes and how that will impact the drum itself. I've seen people replace just drums or rotors only to suffer from poor braking performance or damaged brake parts. After you've cleaned and replaced, don't forget to clean the drum surface that will be touching the shoes. Again, if your budget allows, replace now. You will feel much more confidence in your truck's abilities knowing that everything will be working as it should, rather than wondering when the next thing will go.

Ok, I've been strongarmed into staying... no pathy, just keeping an eye on the boards...thanks guys!

Sometimes it feels like aprison sentence...no wheelin' dude! There's nut'n like family. Good point on the passing of knowledge. I will pass what little I know...learn from others and keep up my Pathy speak... ..some sweet little virgin 95 WD21...I was eyeing one up earlier today... And, I am eyeing new little trails all the time ... I have yet to pick a replacement vehicle...maybe I can convince the wife to go with a smaller, more fuel efficient mini-ute like a X-trail or Juke 4wd/Awd - to keep my wheelin' skills fresh. Thanks guys. This is why I like ya'll. I will be staying if anything to keep an eye on you clowns.

Darn...tried to move it to the general forums...didn't work so now its on two threads...sorry. Please delete the post that doesn't belong.

It is time I bid you all adieu. I would like to thank all the NPORA members, with special mention to those who provided their knowledge and support. I am sad to leave such an organization. Of all the clubs, forums and boards I have been a part of, I feel most priviledged to have known you all, if only via internet messaging and emails. I have sold my truck and will be moving on. The guy purchasing my truck comes from a long-owned Jeep that died a sorrowful death (t-boned) I have sent him this way and explained that this is, by far, the best place to get to know the Pathy and a great bunch of peeps. You might be seeing him here (may not). If you do, do what you do best, welcome people with open arms and a huge amount of knowledge. it has been great! Who knows...maybe when this is all over (3-5) years I'll buy another Pathy n' come back to visit ya'll.

Picked him up from the service centre at Nissan. Now that he's all fixed, sadly, I must sell him off to another home. Family situation has changed, no two wasy about it. Damn! I just put on my NPORA stickers too...

Hey AndyC, Thanks for your input... Not looking at buying anything new right now, just a little runabout she can use to go and come back-from school. A friend or hers is selling her 99 Civic with only 130,000 to my wife for only $1800 buckaroos and we already have a 2 year-old minivan which I will drive as I will be picking up and commuting with the kids more often than she will. She put up with alot of my needs and wants while I was going to school and I owe it to her to do the same. I will not resent her (for too long) as I will get my choice of vehicles (perfect timing for a mid-life crisis, I might add) once she's done and we are both earning $$ again. So, yes...we've been thinking and talking about her going back to school for a long time...and I guess, with the issues we've had with the trcuk (even though it is now fixed) the time has finally come for me to say good bye.

Here is the link... Sadly, yes Rebelord. We are going through some stuff which dictates we will need a smaller, more economical vehicle over the next three to four years...(she's going for her Masters degree, as an excellent opportunity fell on her lap) and there will be no more wheeling/camping trips. Here is the link to the sale thread 1998 Pathfinder LE for sale

Well...truck's fixed! YAY!!!!!!!! :jig:It was a lower IM to head gasket leak. Unfortunately, my wife's had enough of this truck and she is urging me to sell it, roof top tent and everything. So, if anyone is interested, I will add a link to the thread containing specs and photos.

I see. ​ Then power to you for gettin' her fixed up. Good luck! I hope it is not too difficult. If you're gonna had it down, take a welding course and fix that hole right! Unless you are hoping one of your kids does and then it would be a nice family project... I wish I lived closer...I wouldn't mind getting my hands dirty, helpin' out an 'ol girl like Sheila.

Hey Kittamaru, I'm sorry you are having these issues with your vehicle(s). By the sound of it, you are looking at spending more on yer Path than the $1100 you were told it would cost to get the Cherubee back on the road. Unless you are going to do all the work yourself and you have the time, I fear this is not going to end well for either you, the Cherubee or the Path. I mean, you are even looking at purchasing another DD just to get your Path back on the road... Perhaps think about purchasing another Path? One that is more...um...complete and would actually pass inspection? I hate to 'dispose of "loved ones" but sometimes you just gotta let go...no offence and I wish you luck if you decide to fix up yer Pathy.

That is a coolant additive to prevent clogging of the radiator>overheating>premature gasket failure. It is not a gasket seal. Subies are finicky...and the older models (1998-2005) do pop head gaskets...lots, that's fer sure. Electrical-wise they are backward to pretty much everything else out there too. Still, I like Subaru... ...still.

I don't think there is a long-term fix, other than replacing the gasket. I *think* I've seen some sort of leak-stop product out there meant as a temporary (get outta-the-woods and back home) stuff out there, just don't know where and/or if you'd have it in AU. I was right...for once , I have seen some Head-gasket repair stuff out there... RXAuto Head Gasket Repair Again, I wouldn't trust it as a long-term solution...

Its your wind chimes... No, but seriously, last time your rear brakes were checked? Perhaps the ABS sensor or something of the sort? Did you do anything to the truck just before this started? Sounds like thing metal hitting an exhaust pipe...Check the prop shaft. Maybe something has affixed itself to it and it is smacking an exhaust pipe, muffler or the fuel tank protector. Sometimes when things spin (like wires or something of the sort) they are actually shorter going one way (because of the way they curve) and don't hit items but as soon as you start rotating the other way, they'll hit. Play around with the camera, placing it in different areas of the car, facing it toward the center-line of the car starting in the center, (around the b-pillar) and work it backwards. Check the video right after every different location to see if the sound gets louder or not. If it gets louder, you're getting closer to solving the mystery. That way you won't have to raise the truck on JS.

I am using THESE and NGK BKR5E-11 (6953) And I believe these ARE the recommended replacement plugs and wires.

Usually a sticker under the hood, IIRC, where it shows how the belts are routed and in your user manual, the sizes and capacities section. Got a call today from NIssan, as they were taking the top of the engine apart, they found a couple of pipes and hoses which were rusted/deteriorated to the point where they were leaking coolant. The parts will not arrive 'till next Tuesday...a few more days without my baby...

Wow, great! I'm glad they found the problem(s). How broken is broken? Like falling apart or not working? So even with a junker replacement it is still $1000??? Wow!! You do have the R50 with he 3.3L. R50's also came with the VQ3.5.

- For the first few minutes, lookinga t your photo, I couldn't find the plug... I guess I was looking for a hole...then, after a few frustrating minutes, found the plug... Just goes to show how difficult it really is to find...