Bluewulf73

looks good to me...better job than any i've done...but then again that is a bigger hole than any I've had to contend with...is that the D pillar, or the rear door? That was much more cancerous than it looked...

No, not nissan. ORdered from Rock Auto. 950-7002 DENSO Fuel pump with mesh filter 5S2718 Ultrapower Mass Airflow Sensor SG351 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Left SG284 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Left SG291 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Right 1564101 Beck/Arnley Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Right Yeh, can't wait for my parts to arrive (shipping today only ) She's losin' it Capt'n...won't hold together...much...longer!

Hmmmn...I better check mine...not that its causing the problem on my vehicle, more of a preventative measure...

Rust, like a cancer grows... Sand it/grind it, making sure you get most of the nasty rust off, paint it with rust inhibitor then a coat or two of paint similar colour to your truck and it should last you at least another three years. Elbow grease my friends, elbow grease... Masking is the hardest part. You should be able to get the rust inhibitor at Canuckian Tire or Lordco. I usually start with heavy/medium grit sanding block and steel wool. Then finer and finer grit until it is relatively smooth. It doesn't look like you need bondo or anything like that so, yeh... My truck has a hole in its rear-passenger fender lip. Took as much rust as I could to prevent the cancer from spreading, painted it flat black...it don't look nice but it is not spreading.

Huh, P0180, fuel temp sensor A...never heard o' that one b4. At lease you're getting codes...mine won't gimme anything.

He did, post #9. Started, ran rough...got engine light.

Yessir, that is it. Definitely. I had the exact kind of damage to one of the struts on my Neon when I used stiffer springs for autoX. The installer (read, me ) screwed up and cross threaded the nut. That is crossthreading without a doubt. Broken threads due to pressure alone would not show crossthread scoring (middle of the threaded area) and one would actually see the bolt (part with the threads) stretch a bit, allowing the nut to basically run over the threads themselves (they would loook like the threads at the bottom, rounded off in one direction...up). Take it back to the shop and get them to replace the strut for you. Basterds...

Good luck! 40 minutes away...that is nice...I wish I were 40 minutes away too...none of this shipping and handling shnit! Keep us posted.

LOL that was the fastest answer I've seen anyone type...

Holy mother of...(choose your title) Ex-brit is absolutely correct, unless the spring is not the right part and/or the top nut was cross-threaded, it should've held. Do you have photos of the coils, especially compared to your originals? Also, do you have measurements? Can you take measurements? Spring inner/outer diameter, top to bottom measurement, wire thickness...I's sure someone with the A/C springs might be able to throw in some info re: your springs once photos and measurements are up. Once you are sure the front coils are the correct part, go after those who sold you the strut. If it is the springs that are incorrect, go after A/C. Hopefully no one is hurt and the spring didn't kill/maim anything important to you. I've heard of springs taking people's legs off...well, not literally but escaping with enough force they shatter bone into hundred's of pieces...dangerous things, compressed springs are.

I looked into the FSM and I cannot find anywhere, which hose is for what. I also tried cutting and pasting a photo to illustrate but no such luck. Sorry. I'll try again but still, without directional flow indicators I don't think it'll be much help. EDIT: I just realized, ther emight be some indicators on th epump itself, if it is not too much trouble for you to pull out (or if you already have a spare, check on that one)

Good to hear!

You didn't have to order from them...I'm sure you could've found them at a Lordco and had them same day or the next... How many did u order?

Wha...?

There ya go....

So, I'm guessing you took out the spacers?

Bah Humbug! I hate diagnosing...

Ok...so, here goes nut'n. After waiting for a while for Fleury's flange spacers to arrive (Thank you very much Fleury) I finally had time to install them today. Installed the passenger side first since that was the one giving me trouble (and I didn't want to fight the driver's side, which has not been removed, ever) and found out that with the 1/4" spacer, the original axle binds. So, I am at a loss for words and think that I am now relegated to replacing the axle boot and removing the NX4 spacers in the name of reliability.

Ok, so I removed my distributor and other than the slight surface rust on some parts and a bit more play than the new one, there were no other issues I could find. Changed it and everything seemed fine for a while. Then I put it in reverse and it bogged again. So, that is negatory on the fixin' department for: Distributor TPS AICV plugs wires cap/rotor Next to try: MAF then, Fuel Pump then, O2 Sensors then, EGI relay (apparently these fail as well...this relay powers the injectors to fire fuel into the cylinders.)

Changing wires at that truck's age is definitely a good idea. I get 300-350km outta mine (1998) with unlocked hubs and a great big rooftop tent. (my ride is running really rich right now though) If you don't have a bush bar, you can get a CARR light bar and mount two there. (comes in black or chrome and mounts to your front bumper behind/with the license plate. I am thinking of getting one. Also, if you have a roof rack/basket and said roof rack/basket stays on the car year-round, you could put your lights on there. I have a set of lights on the front bumper, a set of light on the roof rack, facing forward and a set, on the roof rack facing backward.

Not in North Van. If you're ever in Richmond, there is a shop I use for alignments...can't think of the name right now though... North Shore off road I think also has a garage. They might be able to do your alignment...I'll get back to you on the richmond shop.

Take it to a shop. that way you'll be sure the camber AND toe are right where they should be. There is a very slight chance you might have to use two bolts per side (one on top, on on the bottom) or elongate the top bolt hole in both struts for further adjustment. Where in BC are you?

Really? 3.8L V6 Mustangs? I mean, I can see the Qx4, Frontier and Xterra (all with a 3.3L) and maybe even the Villager ( I think also a 3.3L, if I'm not mistaking but a Mustang? Wow! I need to get out more...

Update: I asked the techs at the dealership and they said: It is very unlikely the cat is clogged unless: Bad fuel is used regularly There is an issue with the head-gasket (fouling up the cat with oil) Rotten egg or sulfuric smell can be due to bad fuel (as mentioned above) The likelyhood that the vehicle would stall and not start due to a clogged cat is nearly impossible. Rough running could signify a bad o2 sensor but more likely a MAF sensor. Recommendations: Start with the simplest stuff: Check the MAF Check vacuum lines Check all the leads and sparkplugs Check the distributor, cap and rotor Replace O2 sensors causing code(s) Check temp before and after the cat(s) - Should be uniform (nearly the same temperature at the inlet and outlet, if temperature at outlet is lower than inlet then the cat is not working optimally. (If you have a two-way reader) check the voltage on the O2 sensors (inlet sensor should be reading quick changes in voltage, outlet sensor should remain at near the .4, .5, .6, .7 volts and fluctuate slowly only) If outlet sensor reads low voltage and quick fluctutations it is bad. Ofcourse they recommended using Nissan spec parts as opposed to other brands...but well, we do what we can, right? Other things that can kill a cat-converter: Impacts Rapid immersion in cold water Interestingly, I was told that a customer (with a 2000 maxima) experiencing a similar issue, stumbling, stalling, not starting recently went to the service department. It was diagnosed as a MAF. The customer had it changed by another mechanic and it ran rough so Nissan had to perform some kind of ECU re-learning as (apparently six different types of MAF can be used in the 2000 Maxima, depending on engine & transmission choices) Thankfully, the service tech I spoke with doesn't seem to think the Pathy's have the same issue. (only one type of MAF for all 3.3L V6) N-E way, hope this helps.

Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now... Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this. This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor. Hey Timmons, I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive)