Bluewulf73

Hmmmmn...wewy intewesting... that would be great...

Hey, Yes, I too think it is not the root of the problem, rather a symptom. I was doing some research today and found this... EDIT: that didn't work...is there a way to post a PDF file here? EDIT again: FOUND IT HERE It is a pdf document on a well-know (Service Bulletin NTB01-033a) issue and service/thorough cleaning of the injectors for the 3.0L and 3.3L engines with rough idle, hesitation and/OR MIL codes P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 0305, 0306. The MIL codes will not necessarily show up. I need to call my dealership to find out why they did not suggest this cleaning and how much it costs. According to the service bulletin it is 1.1 hours. I go out to Mission/Hatzic area around once/mo. to do some wheeling and TP near East Stave Lake/Davis Lake. Unfortunately, I have not gone out there since this and my axle problem took hold of my Pathy and life. I have a friend who has a friend/co-worker...who makes some killer fuel system cleaner. Apparently he's got a patent and everything. Sells it privately so I've asked for a couple of bottles. Will try that after I install the MAF (got it today! YAY!!!)

Thanks a million Xporx4!!!!!

You need to upload your photos to an online photo and video site like PICASA or Photobucket ( I use PB and like it) FB might work too... then copy the photo's address and paste directly on to your active reply. More detailed instructions HERE As stated above, mid-shaft breaks are rare unless there is an actual manufacturer's defect or massive torque is applied to the shaft while trying to stop it from spinning very suddenly. Most of the time, the tie rods (much thinner) bends way before anything like that can happen...weird.

Actually, what is the manufacturer name of the halfshaft that worked? the one you bought at your local autoparts store? I think that might be the one I need as the other six I tried did not work. ( I hope it is none of the ones I already tried...)

Weird...

Ouch! Yes, they are more expensive...pretty much everything here, to do with motorvehicles and their modification is 1.5-4 times more expensive for us than it is for our southern neighbours. Even with the dollar at near par...go figure!

To be honest mrkim, The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have. My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way! Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps). Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly. Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies... Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account)

So has mine...unfortunately for her, a long time ago, she made the decision to keep it and fix it.

I've heard of injectors not firing/atomizing fuel properly due to clogs so they drip the fuel instead and cause issues similar to the ones I'm experiencing, along with soem I'm not (pinging due to lean mixture). This might be causing the problem...once i've replaced the items with ones I currently have, if the problem persists, I will probably take the top of the engine apart again and replace the injectors and Fuel Pressure Regulator (which I do not yet have) On the CATs, I have not seen them glow red at all and have not felt much difference in heat between the inlet and outlets so I don't think they're plugged. The upstream sensors might be fouled up now since the truck's been running so rich, hence my reasoning for replacing them.

Well, I have taken the truck into Nissan and even they couldn't find the fault with their scanner. It was they that suggested the IACV and TPS be changed. Their suggestions did nothing. The knock sensor was not an issue until very recently (approximately 2 weeks ago) when the truck started stumbling for longer than 20-30 seconds without stalling. I've been battling with this stumbling/stalling issue for months. The truck is 15 years old, I already bought the parts so I'm going to install what parts I have. Not a bad thing to replace 15 year-old parts. Hopefully one of the items I'm replacing will do the trick.

i have replaced and checked all vacuum hoses...nothing where it should not be.

Hey STIOC, Originally it did not run rich, it just stalled. After changing the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and AICV it stumbled more than stalled, with the stalling happening once out of every five or six times the car stumbled. Then the TPS was changed and that did nothing. Finally, I changed the distributor and even that did nothing for the issue. There are six more issues/things to replace that I've read could cause this issue. 1 - MAF sensor. I have orderd a replacement and am awaiting its arrival 2 - EGI relay (powers the injectors and controls their timing?) 3- Fuel pump (replacement is on its way) 4 - Fuel pressure regulator (not touching that until I know its not one of the other things, sicne it requires the removal of the IM, again) 5 - Injectors (same s the fuel pressure reg. Not touching until I have changed the easy things) 6- O2 sensors (Ordered and awaiting their arrival) I have no codes whatsoever, other than the annoying P0325 which pops up whenever the engine stumbles for more than 30 seconds. If none of these fix the issue, I'm gonna say its the PCM. I have chcked and re-checked all electrical connections to the battery and all the components. It is weird. The pathy'll start stumbling once warm, but not always and there is no one condition I can atest to that makes it do that. Yesterday it ran fine most of the day but s soon as I got home, as I was trying to park, it started stumbling and it took me like 3 mintues to park for fear that the engine would surge after it realised it was almost stalling...freaky thing! I was thinking of splurging for a Scan Gauge II in order to monitor fuel pressure, air flow, etc...just not sure it'll be worth it.

Good point!

Looks great! unles one looks very closely, it is difficult to see there is a repair at all... Rebelord is right...does the mirror rest on the edge of that rusted-out panel? If so, then you will need to make sure there is some integrity to it, if not, then you're golden and simple (yeah, right) repair would suffice. If it needs to bear weight, you could fold the mesh and shape it to fit that cavity so it fits even with the rest of the bottom of the hole. That would allow twice the weight bearing and would allow you to fill it in from both sides...not sure if I made myself understood there...

You can just replace just your shocks. They will give you the most improvement for the money, and the springs should have enough life in them to give you a comfortable ride. As said in a couple of previous posts, you could use the airlift/helper springs if new shocks are not enough of a change. They are around $100-$200 for the rear only. (This would give you adjustability though) However if you've have a high-mileage vehicle, and you load the rear of the vehicle very heavily on a regular basis, (weakens springs earlier) then the recommendation would be to change everything at once so spring and shock-rates are comparable and you don't have to get into the work more than once. Like you said, you are going to keep this for another five years...

I don't have personal experience with the Ironman springs. I don't think they are softer that the OEM, They are softer incomparison to the OME and AC but everywhere I've read, they are comparable to the OEM in weight-carrying ability and comfort. (FYI - all of the comments I've read about them are "seat of the pant" coments so one has to take things with a grain of salt)

Hey Darek, If you don't want/need a lift, then get new OEM springs. Although, now that I think about it, the Ironman Springs might be cheaper for you and I think around the same comfort level as the Original Equipment springs so if you can get them cheaper, it might be worth your while.

According to Rock Auto they do. Rock Auto Knock sensors. I've checked the cat converters. Neither of them are damaged...at least not the exterior of either of them. Not even the pipe comnig out of them...still driving me crazy...stalled on me today...used 1/4 tank is running so rich...out of just 125KM...I smell raw fuel at every stop and it smokes so black I've been mistaken for a diesel.

Hey Darek, If you are planning on keeping the truck for another 5 years, then definitely do the whole suspension, not just the rear. Figure 5 years at around 10-20,000 km/year you would be putting 50-100,000 km on the truck. Life expectancy of shocks and struts is around 80,000 km so you'll be getting a good amount of use from them. Not sure about Poland but here unless I sell the truck as a heap (to trash) It would need a safety inspection and you would have to check/change the shocks then anyway. You dont have to get a lift. You could go for stock springs and KYB struts/shocks or whatever other brand is sold where you are. If you want the rear to take a bit more weight, you could use the helper air springs (I think there is a pair for sale in the for sale section right now.) It is a safety issue. If the rear is loose, you could easily lose control of the truck. I'hve seen a truck's rear bounce around in winter conditions and the lightness of the truck in the rear made the guy lose control. If at any time you drive family and kids in your vehicle, you owe it to yourself and your truck to get new shocks and struts. keep in mind though If you do get lift springs definitely do them all at once. The rear you could do yourself, very easily. The front is much more involved but could still be done by a home mechanic provided he/she has the right tools. Good luck!

looks good to me...better job than any i've done...but then again that is a bigger hole than any I've had to contend with...is that the D pillar, or the rear door? That was much more cancerous than it looked...

No, not nissan. ORdered from Rock Auto. 950-7002 DENSO Fuel pump with mesh filter 5S2718 Ultrapower Mass Airflow Sensor SG351 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Left SG284 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Left SG291 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Right 1564101 Beck/Arnley Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Right Yeh, can't wait for my parts to arrive (shipping today only ) She's losin' it Capt'n...won't hold together...much...longer!

Hmmmn...I better check mine...not that its causing the problem on my vehicle, more of a preventative measure...

Rust, like a cancer grows... Sand it/grind it, making sure you get most of the nasty rust off, paint it with rust inhibitor then a coat or two of paint similar colour to your truck and it should last you at least another three years. Elbow grease my friends, elbow grease... Masking is the hardest part. You should be able to get the rust inhibitor at Canuckian Tire or Lordco. I usually start with heavy/medium grit sanding block and steel wool. Then finer and finer grit until it is relatively smooth. It doesn't look like you need bondo or anything like that so, yeh... My truck has a hole in its rear-passenger fender lip. Took as much rust as I could to prevent the cancer from spreading, painted it flat black...it don't look nice but it is not spreading.

... Thanks! I feel better now...I'm looking for "the black sheep squadron episodes in PirateBay now... Hahahaha...that is cool...Imagine something like this 'stormin' the beach on D-day... they'd been like...