Bluewulf73

Thanks devonianwalk, glad to hear no issues have come up for you. Hope it remains that way. What year Miata? I'm hoping to get first gen and buildign it up once the kids are outta the house... in like 12 years... First gens are my favourite. Especially since I don't really fit well into the other generation Miata's (except for the last one) I hear ya on the Yahoo's. Almost got run off the road by a drunken YJ driver... he did run someone else off the road . I have yet to get the back-roads maps but have been very interested in doing a trip solely on back roads (with the exceptional trip on a road to get fuel) Maybe I'll take you up on that later in the year. Great to hear. I had intended on installing the Manual hubs anyway...hopefully i get as lucky as you guys and have no issues. From what I understand the NX4 spacers are solely to get rid of the forward rake, correct? Might have to think about getting those too especially since we sleep on the roof of the pathy and having a level sleeping surface is important.

Thanks for your input rgallant, I have not been as adventurous as I would like, primarily because the vehicle is my daily driver, I usually wheel alone and I don't have much in the way of recovery gear. I usually stop investigate and think about repercussions of going through or over an obstacle for a long time before actually tackling it. If it looks too deep or too steep or too gnarly, it probably is, hence I will look for a way around or turn back. I know the Pathy's limitations and mine (can't throw lots of $$ into this car especially not on repair bills) so I always wheel on the side of caution. Perhaps I will look into getting some OME springs, new shocks and some quality under-armour instead of going balls-out and getting the SFD. Thanks 90seven, You have the AC lift, can you comment on ride, how often your struts top-out, wear on parts, etc? Thanks devonianwalk, You have the AC lift, can you comment on ride, how often your struts top-out, wear on parts, etc?

Hey all, I need help deciding on what to do... Do I get a SFD kit or the A/C Lift Kit? Here are my thoughts on both: SFD Pros: Best look Best clearance (higher lift) More reliable (easier on running gear) No import cost as it is Canadian Cons: More difficult to install More expensive to install (don't have tools or garage to perform installation) More expensive initial purchase? A/C LIFT KIT Pros: Easy install Least expensive to install Lower price initial purchase? Cons: Less reliable (more wear and tear on joints due to increased angles) Struts topping out (cause for worry?) High import/transport cost to Vancouver BC, Canada (from FLA to BC) I am hoping those of you who have the SFD OR the AC lift kit will chime in and possibly help me make a decision and/or correct any of my Pro/Con thoughts. Anyone who first had the A/C lift kit and now has the SFD, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated as well. Edit: Sorry, I should add that it is my DD as well as our get-away from it all vehicle, with which we go camping with our RTT throughout all summer and early fall. I do like traversing mild/medium trails but would like to try something... a bit more out-of the way? Thank you all in advance, I have been researching and waiting for this moment. Now that my shocks are done-for, am very eager to finally lift me rig.

Hey Dan, Just noticed this and its probably a bit late but I've had great luck with Kon Auto on Venables. Mr. Kon specializes on Subies and Volvos but has great knowledge and helped me with our Pathy when me wife was driving it. Good luck!

Ouch! Been there done that...well,almost. Lucky for me, I read not to touch the tps setting *before* I touched it. Glad to hear its back to abnormal for ya. U lookin' at takin' it to Nissan?

Nope, that was just to bring them in.

SFD sounds good. Although it is the most costly and involved option out there, it also appears to be the best bang-for-buck and safest, most reliable lift. (no topping out, no awkward steering geometry, no stressed-out CV joints or axles.) I'm looking into it but am wondering what an install would cost. I don't have any of the tools required (except for jack stands and torque wrench) to do something like that and I don't have any buddy mechanics who could help. I now know I need shocks all-around and new springs for the rear so I need to keep the install cost down. A local retailer quoted me $800.00+ taxes for the OME springs and I just got an email from ARB in WA telling me that the OME springs won't give me more than .5" of lift, especially when fully loaded with my RTT and supplies. SFD is lookin' more and more desirable. Hmnnn.

Hey stioc, Actually, the high idle was fixed by replacing the AICV solenoid. So, technically since that is your only issue, replacing it in your rig might fix the issue. I've been doing alot of research on this and its happened to at least 8 other people in 97-99 Pathfinders. (yours is the youngest I've seen with the issue) In all instances the AICV was replaced, but it did not always fix the issue, hence my recommendation on having the "guarantee" put on paper. I've read of people having to replace the computer, the TPS and/or the distributor because the trouble was finally traced to one of those items after the AICV replacement did not work. I've had two issues, one was the high idle the other is the stalling, turned stumbling and sudden surge or RPMs. As stated above, the high idle was fixed via solenoid replacement but the stalling turned stumbling was not. I was told both issues were due to the AICV. Personal experience begs I warn others when dealing with AICV solenoid replacements. Just trying to help.

hey stioc, Sorry i did not mention that after cleaning my MAF and TB my RPM stayed at 1000-1100 until the AICV was changed and the re-learn was done. I kinda missed the whole purpose of the topic there.

It is tempting to get a wrecker part Quaintbucket, however not sure I'd want to spend on a part I won't know works until it is in the car, especially given how difficult it is to replace. Nissan recommended getting a brand new one as opposed to used. I'd hate to see anyone waste time and $$. Sorry I posted another; tried to editoriginal but the edit button was not available...

Hey stioc, My 98 had stalling issues so I ended up cleaning the MAF and TB with the pertinent cleaners and after doing so, I experienced the exact same issues as you (high rpm and unsteady, fluctuating RPM's, re-learn wouldn't take either). So I read on and figured I had to take the AICV trouble of taking the upper IM off the engine, then removing the AICV off the manifold, cleaning it thoroughly and lubricating it. Also checked that the solenoid turned on/off with current applied and it moved freely. I should not that I never had a CEL or code to begin with. After cleaning, however I got codes 0325 and 0100. 0325 was because I was not able to hook up wire #6 properly so the engine misfired, Code 0100 I'm sure was because of the MAF cleaning. I reset the ECU and no codes ever came back. While in there I also changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Buttoned everything up and when fired up the Pathy. No changes. So I tried to do the re-learn and it still wouldn't take. Ended up taking it to Nissan. Told them what was happening and what I did to try and remedy the issue (except for trying the re-learn procedure) and after a whole day's diagnostic, with their "magic tools" they told me that the AICV solenoid was kaput. They also made me privy of a few other issues but the important thing is that they guaranteed (no in written form, unfortunately) that changing the AICV would fix my issue. It did not fix it completely. It fixed the high-idle but not the stalling. Sometimes, it will not stall. Instead, it will *almost* stall (200-300 rpms) then the RPM's will surge to 1500 RPM lunge the car forward as the engine tries to recover. Long story short, 20 days and three different trips to Nissan later, the issue is still not resolved. If you end up taking it to Nissan and they tell you the repair is guaranteed to fix your issue, make sure you get it in writing. Juan

Doh! Thanks for educating me on Jeep speech and please pardon my naïveté.

Hey mac512, Awesome write-up and instructions. I am wondering if you have a similar write-up for the rear spring/spacer install? Also the regarding the cherokee 3" coils you got, did you mean these are 3" lift coils for a Cherokee? Which ones/brand? Why did you decide to go with the cherokee coils instead of the 4" WJ as recommended by KRfabs? ( I understand this is your own home-brew kit) Any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Juan

Thank you all for your very helpful information. I will call NSOR and have them quote me a price. Me poor R50 needs a butt-lift...

Cool, request sent.

Hey 98r50fan, I had a large leak coming from the valve covers. It turned out all the bolts were very loose. I would encourge you to ensure all the bolts are tight (beware, I believe they are Phillips-head bolts, they were on mine) without stripping them. It took about a week of the truck running on city/HWY for the oil to burn off and me to realize that is all it was...I got lucky, I guess. No loss in checking it out though...I was losing alot of oil and was worried as the engine made funny noises at start-up. After tightening the valve covers, even through a 5500 km road trip, the truck lost/burn no oil. Hopefully it is something simple like that. Good luck!

Hi all, I will be taking a road trip in the coming week and will be passing by Portland and Bend, OR. Me Pathy needs new shocks and struts and am hoping to order from AC. Anyone know a reasonably priced garage which can or will install new shocks and springs on me Yoda? I will be in Portland around Sunday/Monday (week after tomorrow) and Bend on Tue/Wed (14/15). If I would also need their address and a contact person so I can have the items sent to the shop. Sorry about the inconvenience and thank you for any assistance lent. Juan

Vancouver/Richmond.

OWL out on light coloured vehicles, OWL in on dark coloured vehicles. IMHO

I believe ya. My 98 LE's mesh wheels' offset was also around 6". My new used wheels are at around 3.75" Can't wait to see and hear how the lift went.

Where can I get the 1.75" OME lift springs? I have looked in lots of places and no one can fid the actual 1.75" lift springs. Everyone always asks me whether I want the mild/medium/Heavy duty springs (with .50-.75" lift) but cannot find anything else. Is there an actual part number? I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Juan

Thanks, I'l give that a try. Chrome on the bmper cover's gotta go too.

Something else I want to do is get rid of all the chrome and at least the LE badging...I don't like chrome

WOT - Wow, that is MUCH shorter. For a while, before I even thought of 4wheelin', my thoughts were to lower the Pathy. Your ride looks nice! rgallant - Thanks for the info. I will try NS Off Road. You are right, picking the right line, being thoughtfull and realistic of one's and the ride's abilities and knowing when one's been beaten are more important. I do have a tow strap and I think having a manual recovery winch should suffice. Having an electric winch makes things nicer though... You are right on the snorkel bit and it is, pretty much, at the bottom of my list. It sounds like you;ve gotten around quite a bit. I wish I would be able to do so. Unfortunately, me wife is not one who enjoys the outdoors. Her idea of enjoyable camping is staying at a KOA. It would take lots for me to get away to any of the locations you've mentioned. Perhaps when the kids are older and she's tired of having me around 8). I do have a Garmin and will try to find the Backwoods mapbook. This book is BC specific, is it? Nevermind, I'll do a search and see if I can get it into my GPS' SD card. For now, here are a couple of photos of "leah" sporting her new shoes. There are also a couple of photos of it doing a bit of flexing ( I wanted to see where the tire would end up sicne these wheels stick out quite a bit further than stock.) A couple depicting how far the new wheels stick out.