Bluewulf73

I'll post my findings once the camber is corrected and the boot is replaced.

Hey rebelord, I think you might have helped me solve it. Thank you. Let me explain... After trying three different axles (all of them binding with the suspension hanging, and although, while road testing, no binding on a straight line, there was some pretty nasty binding, thumping and shaking my steering wheel while turning left) from Cardone, and Vision, none of them worked. So I put my old one back on and have absolutely no issues, other than the boot leaking grease from the end with the large clamp. I can understand that tolerances are much tighter in a brand new unit but for it to make that much difference, well I am very surprised. After my lift, I went to get an alignment. When I read the last post in the topic you found, I checked the sheet for my alignment and apparently, the passenger side (which is the side giving me trouble) is at -1 degree, while the driver's side is at +1 degree. I am having absolutely no issues with the driver's side axle or boots so the more I think about it, the more the evidence points to the alignment being the culprit. I will take the car back to the alignment place have them change the angle to + 1 degree and have them change my my axle's grease and boot. Hopefully that'll fix everything. I can't wait to get my manual hubs...

We tried three different axles from two different places. Two different brands and all three binded. independent auto parts store, Lordco. Noticed grease leaking out of my passenger's side boot yesterday, checked the boot, no cuts, holes or anything else. It just appears as if the boot shifted forward. I think I'm going to rebuild my axle. On anouther sour note, I just found out that my 98 is actually a 97. Maybe that is why the axles didn't fit...perhaps I should try a 97 axle, although it probably won't make a difference... I think that my new OME/NX4 lift probably caused this...there is a 3" difference in height between pre and post lift. I'm at a loss here...

As the title states, replaced shaft with new one and it binds!

Hey stioc, Thank you for your advice and explanations. I still keep and use the factory jack for tire changing (when on relatively even ground) my concern was getting stuck on uneven ground with little or not traction and/due to a flat. I will heed your advice and will take a look at the video you recommended as well as use thehi-lift only for situations where there is no alternative. To tell you the truth, if I had it my way, I would rather put a winch on my pathy and winch myself on to flat(ter) ground in order to use the factory jack but I have neither funds, nor knowledge, nor equipment to fabricate a front/rear bumper or receiver hitch to mount a winch on. So, I'll have to make due with what I've got.

Health, Safety and Facilities Coordinator for a not-for-profit counselling agency.

Excellent safety observation. Thank you for passing this on, this knowledge will come in handy my first time using the Hi-lift.

Holy Mother of... That looks...ummmn... that is some nastay damage to your light! Was the guy standing holding the truck so it wouldn't shift sideways? Bet there was much of once the job was done and you were safely off the trail, huh?

XPLORx4 - You are right, I noticed that as I looked closer at the photo. It will definitely not work. I know it is not designed for plastic bumpers but I did think the hooks might fit/work in/with the tow-hook. My intention was never to use it on the bumper itself. As to why I don't get the lift-mate, well my thought/wish was to carry less (ie: no jack stands to have to support axles) while on outings.I think the lift-mate is a great idea unless I have to change that particular tire when flat. It will absolutely work to get me out of a rut but to change a flat, on uneven ground, I would need to lift said flat off the road by other means. I was reading over your previous comment and recommendations on what to get in order to use the hi-lift with the towing point. I already have some heavy duty chain which I will need to get cut to size in a previous post. I think I will try that before I purchase any hi-lift accessories.

At the request of a fellow member, here are the part numbers for my suspension upgrade. These are for my pre 11/1998 R50 Pathfinder so these technically should fit 1996 to 11/98 Pathies. Front springs: Old Man Emu Heavy Duty springs: Part # 2928 (According to OME should lift the vehicle .5 of an inch) Rear Springs: Old Man Emu Medium Duty springs: Part #2922 (According to OME should lift the vehicle .5 of an inch) Rear Shocks: Old man Emu nitro rear shocks, Left and Right: part #N61 Front Struts: According to KYB, their GR2 and ExcelG struts are essentially the exact same thing. KYB's are silver and ExcelG's are black. KYB no longer lists the GR2 for the 1996-11/98 pathfinder, they only list the ExcelG for it. Apparently, KYB is trying to have their shocks and struts look more like "Original Equipment" and is spraying their newest shock and struts black. I was loucky enough to get one excelG and one GR2. (don't ask why, please ) KYB GR2/ExcelG Front Left Strut: Part #335016 KYB GR2/ExcelG Front Right Strut: Part #335015 KYB strut boots: Part #SB129 You will need, without a doubt, a pair of strut-mount bearings. (Everyone recommends these get replaced when updating/upgrading your suspension) So, 1996-11/98 strut-mount bearings: Nissan Part # (I will get you these later as I forgot to take a photo of them up close and I can't find my receipt.) Hope this helps.

Impressive is right. I too was thinking...gotta build me one of those! Unfortunately, I don't know where to start. I might have to splurge. As for hi-lift attacments, I was thinking of using this: bumper-lift.html Attaching this to the hook and lifting away. Damn you rebelord, now I wanna get me one of them stabilizers...

Would this: Be an acceptable place to jack the front end using a hi-lift jack and bumper strap system? I think it would be as it is a towing point, however, I would like other's opinions, please. Thank you in advance.

Amen to that, brother

Wicked cool! Looks mean with them huge nostrils wheels and JDM's.

Nice work stioc! The more I watch you and other guys here fabricating your own stuff, the more I want to take a welding course!

Awesome! Love the stance with those wheels and tires! Like your dog too. Reminds me of my ol' pup, a Staffordshire Terrier. What exactly is your 5" lift composed of?

Original was a dueler HT 235/75/15. I now have a Discount-tire brand 235/75/15 (one of three left after my side-wall flat)

First impressions, Pretty much as almost everyone before me described the change. Much more taught ride. The Pathy is not as "jumpy" or "nervous" on irregular pavement. Noticed there is not as much chatter/vibration and this is saying a lot, especially since I need to replace my springs and struts. Drove on a pot-hole-filled back lane on the way to work and the Pathy is much much more composed. Overall, excellent results for the price. I am a believer. I didn't think such a small item could make such a big difference. Great! Thank you!

Got it Friday Thank you JA! Installed today - What a PITA. One of the bolts took forever to re-install. Almost seemed it was cross threaded. No though so, we'll see the change tomorrow. Can't wait for my 1" spacers front and rear as well as my new, OME suspension. Also waiting on underbody protection and am now working on my snorkel.

If you go on to the NX4 website, i think you can order their CAD drawings. Not sure how much they cost but at least you'll be able to get the drawings and specs.

Cool. Thank you everyone for your input. I think i'm going to research both OME and AC further. With what it costs to get the AC lift kit to Vancouver, I think I might be able to get a full OME kit (struts, springs and shocks) down in WA. Any WA peeps recommend a garage near Bellingham/Seattle?

Hey mudfildvaynes, As much as I'd love to do that and as cool as that looks, and I'm sure, wheels, it is just not practical for me as it is my DD and it wouldn't fit in my carport or with my RTT on it, not to mention my work's U/G parking (without the tent) Also, my wife is short and me kids wouldn't be able to climb that high so I just can't go that route. Wife would if I made our Pathy that high. Hey Iceman, I too feel that "Big-Truck-Dinky-Tires" look is, well, funny lookin'. Still, with the wheels I got on it wouldn't look as bad it as OEM wheels with the OEM backspacing. I could live with that for a while, 'till these tires wear out. As I stated before, 31's are the largest tire I would put on the Path as I don't want them to affect the vehicle's tracking, comfort and fuel consumption on the highway.

A little late to the party but I just ordered mine...now to order new springs and shocks.

Hey Fleurys, Thank you for your informative response. I do understand the subframe and rear axle will not be any higher than now with the 4" SFD lift. My usual hang-ups are the front and rear bumpers and having a 4" SFD drop, essentially lifts my unibody 4" which means my approach and departure angles will improve. I don't think I'll get bigger tires for a while since my current 30X9.5's are still pretty new. And I know I'll never go any bigger than 31's since I want to keep costs down and fuel consumption relatively low (it is my DD) so I understand my lift is still going to be very limited. I might hit you up later with a PM. I really like your front and mid skidplates.