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Ok cool that makes since. And if i where to angle them they would be angled up more. As you crank the T-bars for more lift the upper arm goes down and the balljoint end goes down cuasing the joint to bind so i would need to angle it up and that would push the ball joint out away from the frame. With that said i would more then likly have to push the arms in towards the frame cuasing it to maybe take shims out rather then installing them. Correct? I guess ill be the ginny pig and try it lol

ok And when you get aftermarket arms do they give you longer bolts or you use the stock ones? If you use the stock ones then i shouldnt have any issues with angled stock arms seeing how not of that changes.

Im starting to get confused weather i even need angled arms are not? lol And i was looking at my arms today and it seems like there is already a spacer between my balljoint and upper arm? not sure if thats stock or not? So i can either run stock arms with no mods what so ever and bolt on a set of spacers and i will not have any issues getting it alighned? Or just buy some stock arms angle them up a bit and weld them up and have no issues with an alighnment? The junk yards want from $50-100 for both stock upper arms and balljoint spacers are $100 shipped. Thanks guys for helping me out im just trying to figure out the cheapist way to lift my pathy but not half ass it. I could go out there now and take the bump stops out and crank the @!*% out of my T-bars and let it roll but i dont wanna do that.

The whole reason i plan on going this route is to ditch the price tag on aftermarket arms and lifting my pathy. So if i where to buy them i would not modify them. I wanna use stock ones becuase they are cheapier and i can build them my way and box them in and all that good stuff to make them different from all the others out there. And correct me if im wrong but the only difference between stock arms and aftermarket arms other then looks is that the end (where the ball joint mounts) is angled more? If so then i would still have to get longer bolts to be able to stack more shims for camber correction. I never heard any of the guys that have aftermarket arms running into this problem but i can be wrong?

Yeah I really don't see either Well I'm with you on cutting stock stuff up but I will be beefing it up more then stock. I Tig weld on big ass turbine parts and my welds are good enuff for them to generate power to run cities then they should be.good enuff for some A-arms. Lol. But the whole idea is to save $ I think those arms are to pricey for what they are and do. And I understand if they break then I will be spending a lot of $ in repairs but I really don't see them breaking. Hmmm didn't know that but I've heard not to run those balljoint spacers and the stock arms with cranked T-bars make it impossible to get a tire alignment done. So I'm really wanting to have some angled arms. Lol in a nicer way yes what he said. I have seen some shady @!*% done to some bagged mini trucks that are still holding up. I have a friend that bought a bagged truck and the 4-link tabs where only welded on the outsides. The truck started swaying back and forth and I told him to let me the #&*% out. He still drives it daily like that and its still running strong lol. What do you guys think the going price would be for some stock upper arms? And I'm thinking the best and easiest way to get the angle is if someone who has some aftermarket arms can make a templete with cardboard of the angle and ill pay to mail it to me?

Hey guys I was wondering if it would be possible to pie cut the bottom of my upper arms and bend them then weld in inserts to gain the better ball joint angle? I would add more material and beef it up just for my piece of mind. We have done it in the past with mini trucks and the balljoint binding. Just pie cut right behind the balljoint lay the truck out then make inserts and weld them in. I have the access to material and a Tig welder at work and the only cost would be getting the arms from the JY. What's your guys thoughts on it and can anyone supply me with how much the aftermarket bent arms are bent more then factory? I know I could make a jig and build full custom arms but I really don't want to spend all the time that , that project would take. I'm hoping I can wam bam thank you mam these arms at work in one day. Thoughts? Thanks guys

I have a SE with the power shocks. If i do the JGC springs and crank my T-bars will my stock shocks be good? Will they be long enuff? My shocks still work and i like having the option of switching them to sport mode but i never use it. So i guess aftermarket shocks wouldnt hurt but just wondering if i could get by, by running them?

Im going to install my oil pressure guage tomorrow and was wondering about how to wire up the light. What im wanting to know is it ok if i run a jumper wire off one of the wires from my light dimmer switch? That way it can be adjusted or should i find another wire behind the dash? and if i do will it mess anything up? I just dont want to FUBAR my truck up with such a simple little light bulb. Thanks Guys

Congrats man!!!!

Hell yeah def post some pics up!!!!!

I have titans on my hardbody and bored them at work with a friend. I seen where a guy put some on his 4x4 hardbody and it looked like he took a lot more off to me.

You have to bore too much material out on the rim to make them to fit the 4x4 hub and is very unsafe to me. They would look good on a pathy but not safe.

Check out my Pathy thread Lots of pics with 31s http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/32608-94-pathy-woody/

WOOOHOOOO No more waiting for me my 3months are over My old pathy with my parents new out on the trails in northern AZ

Congrats man!!!! And it is a great pic

Cool thanks for the write up

Just thought i would post this up for future searchers. I took my pathy to nissan and got the oil changed. It cost me $30. and they put a oem filter and 5W30 oil in. It runs So much better and the lifter tick on cold starts went away. Im gonna start getting my oil changed when the ticking happens rather then waiting on my mile mark to come first. The ticking could have been from the oil filter that was on there (not sure what it was). Not sure if it was the fresh oil or the oem filter but they both helped out majorly!!!!

Hahahahaha ok ill look into it more . The truck is a 88 and has a 97 harness becuase the whole thing has been updated to except the engine and all the other newer stuff. The previous owner had it all done at Nissan and they must have taped it all up making it look like one harness.

Ok thanks I did pull the panel and it looked like it wired into the rest of the harness. I'll look harder and maybe trim some tape back.

In at the last minute My vote went to Kyle94 for going deep!!!!