Balln

Yeah your pic was the other one to choose from. It's great to see pathys recovering the ones that look down on us. Priceless moment.

Damn there is alot of nice pathys we have here on the forums. Good work guys. This was tuff to choose and as much as I wanted to vote for stalker pulling that jeep out and making me smile and proud to be a Nissan owner I had to go with the The_magicians_eye. Always thought it was a great pic with all that snow flying.

When I was building my 4dr hardbody I dismounted the pathy cab from its frame. It didn't have a engine or trans but it was a 4x4 with everything thing else there. What I did was jack the body up enuff to slide some steel stock under the cab. One in front and one in rear. Then I used cyinder blocks from home depot to stack under the steel bars. Just slowly work your way up. The blocks are fairly cheap. Just make sure the blocks are far enuff away from the axles. I took the wheels off and set it on the ground and tied my hardbody up to the chassie and slid it out with a jack under it to help roll. Hope this helps. Gotta ask what's your plans? Find another cab to put on your frame or vise versa?

When I bought my 94 the T-bars had to be cranked to level back out. They where sagging bad. After that I put a set of 31x10.5 Mud-T's and had no issue with rubbing at full flex with my rear sway bar disconnected. You should be fine.

When I got my pathy and drove it the first time I had a big concern with the temp guage. It doesn't rise that high. A lot of guys on here have said there guage reads the same as mine. I have a pic of my temp guage at full warm up temp in my build thread in here. Search woody.

Thanks guys. That was my next question is how do the 33x12.50 fit and perform on yhe trails. I literally just got done flexing my pathy out on some dirt and rock mounds by my house 5mins ago. And was kind worried with my offset on the wheels that they wouldn't tuck to good well they proved me wrong. They swung right up in there and I have plenty of room behind the tires and inner well but if I where to trim my bump stops back a little they might hit the outer well where the flairs bolt up. It will be super close but I might be able to squeeze them in there. I really wasnt wanting to run 12.50s but they do tuck with my wheels so I may go that tought. My wife is gonna be happy lol she likes the 12.50s verse the 10s So if the 12.50s tuck I should have any issues with them right? You guys like wheeling them?

Ok I'm wondering what your guys thoughts are on this. I bought some alum 15x10 wheels awhile back that where pretty ruff. I welded up some of the deep scratch marks and then blended some of the lighter ones out then paid to have them polished. I recently sold my new 31x10.50s and now that there sold and my bodylift is on I installed my new wheels with a set of $50 yardsale find 33x12.50 tires to run on while I save up for my new tires. I'm wanting to really get the super swamper 34x9.5s but can't find them so I'm prob gonna go with the bfg 33x10.50 MT but I was told by a friend they will not work with my 10" wide rims. I really don't want to get rid of my wheels with the time and $ I have in them and I don't want 12.50s I don't like the wide look of them plus I wanna be able to stuff my tires in the wells. This is for my daily driver and I do plan on wheeling it but not hardcore.

So I found it. It's a gas leak and a big one. I checked it before and there was nothing but now its leaking. It's the 2" hose that connects the two fuel rails together right under the dist cap. Was really hard to see under all those wires but its leaking pretty good. Hopfully that's all of them. Guess its time to replace all the gas line. Just glad its something simple. Thanks for all the help on this guys.

So I found it. It's a gas leak and a big one. I checked it before and there was nothing but now its leaking. It's the 2" hose that connects the two fuel rails together right under the dist cap. Was really hard to see under all those wires but its leaking pretty good. Hopfully that's all of them. Guess its time to replace all the gas line. Just glad its something simple. Thanks for all the help on this guys.

Thank you Sir With my body lift it makes it easier to check those gas lines. I watched the filler hose and no leaks. It doesn't smell like gas in the back of the truck so I doubt its the fuel pump seal. The evap canister ill have to take a look at. Hopfully one of the lines popped off or is ripped real bad. If so that wouldn't cause the engine light to come on?

Hey guys wanna see if I can pick your brain on this one. The other day I smelt gas really bad so i took a look and found it leaking from the hose that's comes from the fuel filter to the hard line just above the pas side valve cover. I fixed that and no more leaking. Now a few days later I started getting another gas smell but not straight gas more like the truck was running rich. So yesterday I decided I would change the plugs to see if that might help. The old plugs where a whitish grey color I can post a pic later. After I did that I checked my dis cap and rotor and they where pretty crusty so after Sanding those down I popped them back on. I decided to crawl under it to see if I could find anything interesting and only found that under my pas side vlave cover was a bit wet. But it was oil come to find out my valve cover was loose. Got that all tight and started her up. I started it up and the exhuast smelt funny kind like a stink bug lol but after it idled for a bit it cleared up and ran fine and no smell of gas and the exhuast didn't have a smell. I took it for a drive and got on it here and there and everything seemed fine. Got back home and couldn't smell gas or anything. So I headed to work this morning and on my way I turned on the heater and started to smell it again. Pulled up to work and one of the guys said he could smell it to as soon as he got out of his truck a couple spots away. The truck runs good and there is no check engine light I have no clue what could be cuasing this. Anyone have a clue to might be wrong. Thanks Ryan

Thank you and does anyone know if the upper arms are the same as the 2x4 uppers from a hardbody? They look alot uh like. I have some laying around that I have already beefed up for a bagged truck. Would save alot of time and $ ill try and to get them side by side and see if I can use those.

I have searched and searched and can't find the thread with the pics I'm looking for. I know there is some pics floating around in here of some stock upper arms and aftermarket arms side by side. Can some one post a link here or some pics of them. Wanna see if the lift arms are longer then the stocks or are they just angled up?

That's a cool way to do it madmax. I stayed after work to work on a shield seperater piece for the filter. I'm pretty happy with the way it came out for a hours worth of time on it. Still have to deburr the sheet metal then blast it and spraypaint it. I'll run it for awgile till I figure out if my plans are going to work. I want to run a ram air setup. I will post pics of it tomorrow

Hmmmm yeah I have nothing. At idle i pop the hood and rev it up and nothing. Maybe its the filter.

I dont hear anything. And when im driving down the rd i dont here anything but my MT's humming lol but sitting still theres no whistling or nothing

I am going to get one made for my 1/10 truck that i have setup very similar to our pathys. But there use to be a older kyosho body but it was 1/6 scale and they are very pricy 1k and up. The other option is RC4wd they make one but it doesnt even look like a pathfiner its very ****** looking. They did have something in the works back in the day and i asked them about it last year and they said there no longer going to do it. Thats why im going to get a custom built one out of stryne from a member on the rc forum. Prob be around the $300 range. RC4wd pathfinder body. http://store.rc4wd.com/110-T-Finder-Lexan-Scale-Body_p_429.html The body im using now should fit on the x mod chassie. I have a xmod and can take some pics for you. I have some pics i found awhile back but not 100% sure its the same body as mine. The fenders look a bit different. I have a 4x4 xmod with all the after market parts and they are ok not a losi micro. You could easily buy the pathfinder model and find a way to stick it on the losi crawler. They even make scale chassies but the leafs are plastic and doent flex that much so prob just link it. I went my way becuase i like the challenge and it looks alot more scale to me. My xmod is sitting in a box with the ford body. I have the aftermarket body kit, susp, motors, gears,wheels ect. It does have the 4x4 kit on it but you will have to buy another one becuase one of the front drive axles are missing. If you want it we can make a deal? Its been sitting for along time and i dont use it. If not now that im looking at it a nice landrover or range rover would look good on it with its susp setup.

LOL yeah its a blast to play with. I really like taking it in the mud lol the tires are a little to hard for rocks but it does ok. Im wanting to build a bit bigger in scale Nissan hardbody and ill then be able to use rc4wd tires that will be more scale and softer then model tires and it should perform alot better on rocks.

I didnt take it in a bad way. Im open to your guys thoughts. All the similar threads and pics i have seen show a custom built bracket to mount the filter too. The way i did it you dont have to. And i would rather have my intake setup this way rather then my tube about to brake and crack open.

Hey guys i have some videos for you of the micro pathy mudding lol. The frist few vids was its first outing and real test run so it wasnt performing so good. I relised i had to add more weight to it becuase it was so light and it helps the susp move and flex better plus it makes the tires grip better. I also had to trim some of the wheel wells and some stuff hanging down on the under carriage. I still have some issues with the sterring setup up but its working better then before.

Ok cool and thanks yeah i would like to make a little sheild box then have the vents on the hood ramming air into it while driving.