theexbrit

I searched but couldn't find a definitive answer, the question is..... Can you use a front strut spacer with the Krypton Fabs sfd?

Yeah, good luck bro. Let us know how it goes.

Long "Expedition" style trails

:laugh: :laugh: I "gunned" my lug nuts on a while back & forgot to torque them after. Out on the trail I heard this weird knocking sound, so walking round the car checking things I noticed my 2 front wheels were hanging off I lost a lug nut, so added a spare, tightened them up & all was good to go.

If only I had $14,000 & somewhere to store it............ http://blog.1aauto.com/2011/07/18/steampunk-zombie-apocalypse-survival-vehicle-for-sale/

Not trying to hijack the thread, but this seems like a good place for this article on exhausts............. "There is a common misconception that engines need backpressure in order to run properly, generate low end torque, etc. That is simply untrue. Backpressure is a bad thing. Always. Take a look at a top fuel dragster...how much backpressure do you think those zoomie headers make? Very little, and those engines produce 6500 hp. So, what is backpressure? Any fluid flowing through a pipe experiences drag on the walls of the pipe. This depends on a number of factors, including the diameter of the pipe, the smoothness of the inside of the pipe, the viscosity of the fluid, and the velocity of the fluid. This drag results in a pressure drop through the pipe. In order for the fluid to flow at all, the pressure on one end of the pipe must be higher than at the other. In an exhaust system, that pressure drop is what we refer to as backpressure. It's pretty obvious that the engine has to produce this pressure differential, so the less power it has to spend making pressure to push the exhaust out, the more power it can send to the wheels. Given that exhaust pipes are pretty smooth, and that we can't change the viscosity (thickness) of the waste gas being forced through the pipes, we are left with basically 2 parameters we can have any control over: The pipe diameter and the gas velocity. Unfortunately, the pipe diameter controls the gas velocity since the volume of gas is prescribed by the engine. So, we really only have one thing we can change. So, bigger pipes allow less pressure drop for a given volume of gas because the velocity is lower. The pressure drop (backpressure increase) is proportional the gas velocity squared, so if I double the gas velocity (by reducing the cross sectional area of the exhaust pipe by half) then I quadruple the pressure drop. Well, there's an easy solution for that: Just make the exhaust pipe bigger. Bigger pipe, lower gas velocity, less pressure drop, so less backpressure. Wow, that was easy. After all, this is the way it's done for basically any type of commercial plumbing system. Need less pressure drop on a chilled water pipe or a natural gas line? Just make the pipe bigger. But wait, there's a problem....Having a huge exhaust pipe has killed my low end torque!!! What's different? Oh, there's no backpressure!! Therefore backpressure makes torque! Wrong. An exhaust system is different than just about any other plumbing situation. How? Because the flow is pulsed, and this turns out to be a big deal. Every time a pulse of exhaust gas runs through the pipe, a strange thing happens: it as it passes, it has a little area of vacuum behind it. Just like a NASCAR stocker running around the track, the pulse generates a little bit of a vacuum behind it. In NASCAR, a driver can take advantage of another driver's vacuum by getting right behind him and driving in it. The wind resistance is drastically reduced. This is called drafting. Well, how big the vacuum behind each pules is depends on the gas velocity. The higher the velocity, the bigger the vacuum the pulse has behind it. Now, this means that I can "draft" the next pulse, just like in NASCAR. In NASCAR, it's called drafting, in an exhaust system, it's called scavenging. You've probably seen this term used when talking about headers, but the same concept applies in the pipe. I get the maximum scavenging effect if the gas velocity is high, so the pipe needs to be small. By maximizing the scavenging effect, I help to pull pulses out of the combustion chamber, which means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to do that. This has the most effect when there's a bunch of time between pulses...in other words, at low rpm. As the revs rise, the pulsed flow becomes more and more like constant flow, and the scavenging effect is diminished. So, at low rpm I need a small pipe to maximize scavenging, and at high rpm I need a big pipe to minimize pressure drop. My exhaust pipe can only be one size, so it's a compromise. For a given engine, one pipe diameter will make the most overall power (i.e., have the largest area under the curve on a dyno chart). So, the loss of torque has nothing to do with backpressure, and everything to do with gas velocity. So you need exhaust components that are not restricive (manifolds/headers, mufflers) and that are sized correctly for your application. To further dispel the "backpressure is necessary" theory, try this if you want. If you have access to a vehicle with open headers, make a block off plate that will bolt to the collector. This plate should have only a 1" hole in it for the exhaust to flow through. That will give you PLENTY of backpressure, and zero scavenging. Then you can report back on how much low end power it has. The one exception to sizing an exhaust is for turbo cars. Since the turbo is in the exhaust stream, the gas flow spinning the impeller tends to come out of the turbo with the pulses greatly diminished. In this case, you can get away with running a larger pipe than on an equivalent HP N/A engine because you can't take as much advantage of the scavenging effect." Courtesy; J Branne, DSMTuners.com

Kyle is correct, It's just on 2". I went out & measured it.

I guess this died a death then?

:clap:

I wasn't online for a while so I only got back to green180 a short while ago. You guys pretty much said what I would say. I did tell him that mine came with the swing out originally so it was easy for me, in this case though I would go with the bumper/tire carrier. Way easier.

Resurrecting this thread......... I measured my wheels & I came up with 101.60mm x 107.95 for the Pro Comp 51's on an R50. This seems awful big & I can't find this size anywhere. Does anyone know if this is the correct size? If not, what is the correct size?

Looks good.

Forget Yelp! The more money businesses pay Yelp! , the less negative reviews they post, Research it on the interwebs, it's a big scam. Report the rip off merchants to ASE, BBB, the attorney General Of California & anyone else you can think of.

I just fitted Powerstop rotors & Hawk SUV pads, it's unbelievable how different the brakes are now! Really good brakes finally! I found that one of my main pins (that slide in & out) was seized, so new calipers for me with new braided brake lines. I also got new wheel bearings for the front.

What seized, the actual brake pistons or one of the little rod thingy's that moves in & out with the pads?

Wow! Did those new Powerstop rotors & Hawk pads make a difference or what!!! An amazing difference in braking feel & power. I found that water had got into one of the caliper carrier brackets & the piston thingy that moves in & out was seized. I'm just going to throw new rotors on it & do the wheel bearings at the same time.

I just replaced the 2 driver side doors (as some of you are aware, I had an argument with a boulder) & I can honestly say when you're holding them up to get the bolts back in the hinges, they're F*#@ing heavy! Also, as some have said, there's one big plug that goes into the pillar that can be a royal pain in the arse to get out & back.

You are correct young Jedi & let us leave it that. May this subject rest in peace.

In the words of Mr. DP Gumby from Monty Python..... "My Brain 'Urts!". I'm all f#*ked up, code P0152 is Bank 2, sensor 1. So assuming that sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (before cat), I sent back the correct sensor My sincere apologies to Towncivilian P0158 is bank 2, sensor 2, the one I have now!!!!!! The one that's not throwing a code!! Excuse me while I go bash myself over the head with a 5lb club hammer.............................................

No worries, bushnut, adamzan & me all thought it was the upstream sensor as well. I appreciate everyone's help with this mind boggling conundrum!!