theexbrit

"but who am I to shatter a dream? :shrug:" :laugh:

Lugs have nothing to do with tire fitment, it's the size of the wheel itself that matters. For that size tire (10.5") the rim needs to be about 8" across the rim width (where the tire sits)...... My tire guy says you can go a little higher, say a 12.5" tire on a 8" rim & it will actually hold the tire on the rim better (poor mans bead locks!) but you shouldn't go lower. I have 33x12.5x15 Duratracs on my Pro Comp 15"x8" rims (series 51) with 3.75 back spacing & I have no problems except a little inner fender rub at full lock. With 31x10.5x15 I had no rubbing whatsoever. You should be fine with that tire/wheel combo. I'm also curious as to how "new pads" cause the caliper to rub? The caliper is a fixed size & is attached to the hub & it's only the inner piston that moves, new pads merely make it a little harder to get the pads into the caliper. I would think it's the backspacing that would cause a wheel to rub on the caliper. For off roading you want a smaller rim diameter & bigger tire diameter (you want more sidewall, this gives the tire more flex when aired down), street cars want a bigger rim diameter & a smaller tire (very little sidewall flexing for better cornering).

I had a brush guard, it was a waste of time. Bloody thing stuck out too far & would hit the ground at the slightest hill ascent/descent. IMHO they cut down your angle of approach way too much, if you just want it for looks on the street that's fine but for any half serious off roading that's not level ground I wouldn't have one. I ditched mine for a winch bumper.

Good questions. I got the AC lift because my stock suspension was shot. I would think if you're doing some half serious off roading, the stock suspension would be way too "bouncy" & you'd bottom out all the time. Having said that I go with some stock Poor Runners & they seem to do ok. I also have the 1" spacers up front, the CV's are just fine. Even at full flex (I still have my sway bars connected) the drive shaft angle is still quite a bit below Nissan spec. If your stock suspension if ok (I'm guessing after 235k it's probably not) then I don't see why spacers alone shouldn't give you the lift you want. Other, more knowledgeable forum members will give you better answers, this is just my opinion.

I have the "Hazard Fraught" 12,000lb winch & it is pretty good. It's worked fine the couple of occassions I used it (one practice & one light weight pull), I know some guys that have had them on their Heeps for 2-3 years & not had a problem. I must admit, I did get the 3 year extended warranty just to be on the safe side.

Ordered the sensor that Towncivilian recommended, got a great deal with the discount code & a wiper blade. Turns out, it's the wrong sensor! :laugh: After much scratching of head & gnashing of teeth I figured out it's the DOWNSTREAM (after cat) driver side sensor!! Part #13257, this sensor is 4 wire. The part #13228 is the driver side UPSTREAM sensor (before cat) & is 3 wire. So, I get the new sensor in a couple of days. All's well that ends well Thanks for all the help, we got there in the end.

Ok, point taken. I shouldn't have included such an easy one as that, Fram filters ARE sheeet. I'm sure there'll be some that disagree. The MM's will be fine (famous last words), I've put mine thru some fairly heavy load situations & nary a peep out of them. Now if you enter the King Of The Hammers in your Pathy, all bets are off!! :laugh:

Don't know about the Rugged Ridge hubs, but this "Warn vs "Mile marker" debate is the same as all the others; Chevy vs Ford, Bosch vs Fram, Castrol vs Pennzoil, etc, etc, etc. Opinions are just like arseholes, everybody has one! :laugh: They're all good products, go with what you can afford. My MM's have been great so far & like the Warns they have a limited lifetime warranty. I have buddies with the Warns & they have been good hubs. It seems the RR hubs are iron & steel, same as the MM's. The Warns are aluminum & steel I believe. The RR's got pretty good reviews on Amazon. If the Rugged Ridge have a lifetime warranty, I say go with them if that's what you can afford.

So sorry to hear about your buddy Chico I have 3 little guys (all under 8lbs) &, like you, they're my kids. I used to walk them around my hood but there's so many big dogs running loose that it's become impossible.

I said "90-96" not "90-95" But you got me on the R50 I meant to say Pathfinders but R50 is easier to spell! :laugh:

Thanks Rob!

That's what I have on mine & they're not crap I can only find reference to these fitting 90-96 R50's, maybe they changed the front axles on the 97 PM Steeevo (Rugged Rocks) he'll set you up.

Fram.......... :laugh: :laugh: That was for entertainment purposes, this is more serious........ My Mile marker hubs have been on for a couple of years & I've had no problems except for the bolts loosening up over time. I put some thread locker on & never had another problem. The older MM hubs didn't have a great reputation but the new ones are steel cap & iron body, Warn are aluminum, the MM bolts are bigger & less prone to stripping, etc. Both have limited lifetime warranty's for the original purchaser. But, you decide......... http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/product-review-hub-battle-warn-vs-milemarker-20718.html

What year did the transfer case lock become standard?

:laugh: :rofl: "I'll tell you a story 'bout a man named Jed, worked real just to keep his family fed................" You're just jealous that my caR50 can have all that @!*%e strapped on, get 1/2 decent gas mileage & still go off roading @kdj, $200 seems a lot for hubs, my Mile Marker hubs were under $100 (us). Are your hubs Warn or some such?

:laugh:

:laugh: Your input is always welcome, young Jedi.

I wondered when some smart-alecky youngster would chime in :laugh: The FSM says Bank 2, sensor 2. No harm in checking!

Sorry, that should read "a couple of search results stated that bank 2 was the passenger side" This code is for the upstream (after cat) sensor right?

Thanks guys. I was confused because I was found a couple of search results that stated bank 2 was the drivers side as Towncivilian says, but one source said it was the driver.. I guess I'll get the Bosch, thanks for the links

I was getting about 12 mpg when I first got my R50 & it ran like a old dog. I Seafoamed it, changed the plugs, air filter, cleaned the throttle body, etc & I started getting about 14-15 mpg. I installed electric fans & manual hubs & I was getting close to 20 on the freeway at 70mph. Unfortunately, I started putting crap all over the outside, (just ask Precise1. off road light, sand ladders, roof rack with spare tire, etc), added a heavy bumper & some other weight so now I'm back down to around 14-15 mpg average, including off road. I get about 16 on the freeway according to my Ultragauge. Manual hubs WILL get you some extra mpg, if you're not driving the front axles & front drive train then that's extra power & mpg you free up (same thing with an electric fan). I can really feel a difference when I have the hubs engaged, a lot less "oooomph" Manual hubs are also good to save wear & tear on the front drive train, with IFS the weakest parts of the drive train are the CV joints & drive shafts.

I get this code intermittently on my 96 R50 4wd auto trans. I've searched the forums & the internet in general & the answers I got (P0152 Front O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Rich Shift Monitoring) don't tell me which sensor to buy. I'm looking at a Bosch or a Denso or an NGK but which one? Also, is it the sensor in front of the cat or after the cat? Thanks in advance......

I never took the pipe off when I did my TB, I just wiggled it out of the way as the others have said.

Here's an old thread that deals with this problem on a 93....... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34476-timing-belt-issue-cam-sprocket-marks-moved-4-teeth/

Hey Jeff, I'm hitting the Old Woman Mountains on the 15th but I might try to get to AB for a day on that weekend you're there. If I can wangle it I'll bring the jack & lights.