theexbrit

I was thinking it might be easier just to replace the whole arm, but I may end up doing the bushings. According to the OEM parts guide there is a difference on the upper arms from mid 1995 to mid 1996. Not sure what that difference would be though?

I'm trying to replace my upper trailing arms but I can't seem to find any for my 1996 (manufacture date December 1996). Will the ones for the 1997 fit?

Me too, AC lift & 1" spacer. CV angle is still well within OEM spec, then again the AC lift isn't technically 2", just maxed out strut height.

K. Thanks, S!

I searched but couldn't seem to find much about control arm manufacturers. Dorman seem pretty ****** & they're the most available, Raybestos got good reviews. Anybody recommend a good manufacturer for upper & lower rear control arms? Thnx.

Unless you really like the "flared" look or you're adding them to keep the cops off your back, why bother? Some of us have had no flares for a long time, if you need it for law enforcement reasons I would add some generic flares or get some from a wrecking yard. Not sure about NY law but here in California there's a myth that you can't have tires sticking out more than 3" from the body, but the code for fenders just says............. V C Section 27600 Fenders and Mudguards Fenders and Mudguards27600. No person shall operate any motor vehicle having three or more wheels, any trailer, or semitrailer unless equipped with fenders, covers, or devices, including flaps or splash aprons, or unless the body of the vehicle or attachments thereto afford adequate protection to effectively minimize the spray or splash of water or mud to the rear of the vehicle and all such equipment or such body or attachments thereto shall be at least as wide as the tire tread. This section does not apply to those vehicles exempt from registration, trailers and semitrailers having an unladen weight of under 1,500 pounds, or any vehicles manufactured and first registered prior to January 1, 1971, having an unladen weight of under 1,500 pounds. Check your states DMV codes to be sure of your laws which are probably different from CA. I think as long as your truck is legal in all other matters & you're not driving like an ass, most cops won't bother you. That seems to be how it is here in CA anyway.

Most exhaust shops will be able to add a Magnaflow/Flowmaster muffler.

I believe you are correct sir, the first photo is when they had just been installed & were inflated at the tire shop, in the second photo they have been aired down to about 20lbs. very observant of you young Jedi. PS. Now you've got me thinking about swamp coolers, sinks & things!!

Thanks! Took a while to get it looking this way, just ask B They do look wider in pic #2, same tires though. Must just be an optical illusion.

Maxima alt is the popular upgrade I believe. Check your Tmax install, it should isolate the batteries from each other so even if one goes dead the other shouldn't. Bad ground?

Thanks B. I have a blender built into my cooler, working on the microwave as we speak..........

I have the 2" AC lift springs plus a 1" spacer on the front, here's what it looks like with 33's........... These steelies are 15x8 with 3.75 back spacing, the tires are 33x12.5x15 Duratracs.

Exactly what I did. I also put a new switch in as the old one was shorting out. Never had an issue with the light since, even over rough terrain. 'Course, taking the bulb out works as well Hey Jeff, wondered where you've been bro. We hit that trail again in Anza that has the Piepkorn slot, that's the one where your group went when we split up on the SCORE trip. We all went down the hill to the left as the side of the hill you guys went down is all messed up now.

All tires are not exactly the advertised size, my "31 inch" Kelly's for instance, were actually only 29", so when I added the 33" Duratracs (actual 32.5 inches), it made a big difference in ground clearance under the diff. There are websites that give the actual size of the tire, I think Tire Rack has a chart. It doesn't make a major difference but less wheel revs per mile gives you a small mpg gain on the highway once you get to cruzin' speed. I found the extra 3' or so under the diff & under carriage helped to not get high centered in some rock gardens.

33 x 9.5 seems a tad skinny to me, it would make it look like the rig is on bicycle wheels. :laugh: I think the 12.5" wide tires are too much friction for the 3.3L motor. I'm going with stioc's suggestions next time & will probably get 32 or 33's x 10.5.

Already replaced both isolators a year ago, my friend :laugh: It is indeed!

I have a clunk in my rack........ Did that come out wrong? Anyway, I'm looking to replace the rack & pinion but don't want to pay $600 or more just for the rack, never mind labor. Anyone know of a good re-manufactured one? I've heard all sorts of horror stories about A1 Cardone, but they seem to be the ones most available.

Whatever height your body is at now, the spacers are solid so they will "lift" the body by whatever thickness the spacers are. The springs won't be affected at all by the spacers, they will be the same whether you have spacers on or not. So to answer your question, you should get some visually noticeable lift by installing the spacers but your springs/shocks will still be the same tired old components they were before.

If the cable is broken you should still be able to unlatch it using a screwdriver. It's a pita but you can get your hand behind the carrier & unlatch it.

I have the steel Pro Comps so that's a lot of weight (plus all the other crap I have bolted on, as Precise1 would say), on the vg33e, auto trans. I'm thinking 32x11.5 like the setup stioc has, on alloys. It still looks pretty good but doesn't have the weight & drag of my set up.

I'm wondering about the weight. With 33's, steel wheels, a full gas can & a hi lift that's some tonnage there.

So, ever since fitting the 33's I've noticed a loss of power uphill & the mpg has gone to she-ite. I was expecting this so no big surprise. Today I thought "what the heck" & I put the 31" tires back on just to see how she ran, holy crap! I couldn't believe how much lighter & responsive everything felt. Steering, acceleration, cornering, everything felt much nicer. Having said that I have to say that the 31's just plain look like crap on the car. Obviously re-gearing would be the solution for the 33's, but I've seen people say that even with re-gearing the gas mileage is still @!*% & the engine revs a lot higher at cruise, also the engine runs a lot hotter. What's the truth regarding re-gearing?