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frecklecolouredbrain

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Everything posted by frecklecolouredbrain

  1. yeah, i'd say thats pretty rotted, with til you see how bad the filter inside is you can pull that little vac. solenoid and cap the line where it "y's" off of the AB valve line. there should be a blue relay in that area too; I pulled mine and didn't have any problems. there should be another part to this setup under you intake hose, that can go too. once it all out, theres actually quite alot of space in there.
  2. but seriously now. The metal mesh looks better; especially if you paint it to match the body. And, it does allow better airflow for that 105F( I know it helps up here with our 49C(120F) summers, but not so much with our -37C(-35F) winters). besides, I doesn't look like the 91 grille match up eith you corner light properly. I say stay with the 80's, and thank you. I was looking at the same change, but now that i've seen them side by side I'm sticking with my 89.
  3. take a look at my thread "intake project on the go". you can see how much of the AIV I took out(everything). the pipe to the exhaust manifold is still there, i just put a cap in the hose until i get my headers in( you can see it beside the "nub" on my rad. And the pipe to the CAT? Pull enough that the engine bay is clear, but leave everything underneath there just incase you want to put it all back or move to a place with emissions. As for what MY1PATH says...yes, leave you EGR. 456 your taking out your cat,you might as well do something for the environment. And I an see his point on the mpg thing. Canister stays. thats stopping fuel from getting out. Even if its only a little bit evaporating, these trucks already waste enough gasoline as it is. One request: you have to post a pic of you AIV filter if you haven't already turfed it. Mine was pretty scary.
  4. Jenny Enticed Leisuresuit Larry's O-face. Face
  5. yup. just a standard washable pcv breather. I picked mine up at Part Source, but any automotive store should carry them. I'm starting to think of relocating the AB, I just haven't fouund a suitable place yet.
  6. Ok, I finally got it done. I didn't remember to take enough pics for a start to finish, but I'll atleast show you where it came from and the finished results sounds fantastic and runs a whole bunch better too. Popped a little filter on the AB valve(not in pic) and it worked like a charm
  7. I was worried about restriction too so I mocked all the pieces together with duct tape(the king of tools), thru on a popcharger and took it for a drive. Even with a mesh screen over the TB(you know, just in case everything fell to pieces) I noticed it ran a little better. I'm not gonna waste all this time without knowing if there was a pay off at the end. And anyhow, has anyone with TB even looked at their air filter; half way thru it's life: clean all the way around, dirty where the air comes in. That's part of what gave me the idea first. Than I saw the LPperformance plastic one and was sold. Just too bad they're not around anymore; coulda bought one and used my day off for something else.
  8. Ok, I just spent the day with a welder and some tools and this is what i have so far. Anybody with a TB might recognize some pieces, as i decide to keep it nissan, and used a pathey plenum for the fab. it still looks messy, but I plan on going to town with some putty and paint. Al ahould be done by next weekend...and my camera sucks cheers
  9. Mine was the same when I got her. An owl hit it after flying into the hood a few years back. Took me 2 years to find one in good condition with a working motor. good luck with the rest of the work
  10. Does Redpath have the fold-down arm rest in the back seat or are my eyes deceiving me. and was this an 87/88 thing only? My 89 doesn't have them but my back seat would be the cat's a$$ if i could get them. I remember my 87 having them back in the day.
  11. Just some tips for these 3 when you get to them. 1. take some snips to cut out the inside of the WORST door you can find and take a picture. I had to do this for my driver side lock and it a bugger trying to figure out how to put it back together with 2 1/2 fingers and something stabbing halfway into your wrist. Also, using the Worst door won't screw over anyone that needs a "new" one. 2. Patch it before you fold the seats up and rip out the whole floor, cause that's a really crappy day when it happens. And, if you're welding in some new bits of floor, use a good heavy gauge so your seat still mounts well. 3. drill some holes on the inner side of the body so the foam has something to grab onto or else it'll just shake free and be a worse problem. I suggest a few 1/2" holes and after you inject the foam, push in 3/8" with a fender washer as far as you can. this'll stop anything from breaking free(can you tell that I've been seriously considering this?). Oh, and don't worry if you can't get rid of a the rust; it took 20 years to get as bad as it is. I don't think our rides will last long enough for it to get that much worse.
  12. the air fiter in the AIV airr box is probably plugged. = no fresh air to cat.
  13. AB vave stays; thank guys. and yes there wil be pics, but i'm not taking any until i start the welding and finishing.. when ever i get a day off. you'll get a start to finish just in case you wanna try it. has anyone disconnected the warmair intake assy?
  14. There are to parts to the AIV. There is the air box, and the control box. The control box has vacuum operated valve connected to a vaccuum solenoid that is controled by a relay; all behind the airbox. The system operates via the EAV tube connected to the exhaust manifold. Between each puff of exhaust, there is a tiny vacuum that allows the outside air pressure to enter through the reeds in the airbox, and down to the cataytic convertor. during normal operation, the control box remains in the open position to allow air to freely pass. At higher rpm, there is not enough time between exhaust puffs to suck in enough air, so the vacuum solenoid closes the control box until enough vacuum is produced. the control box then opens, allowing air to pass in for a few seconds before closing again. There is no sensor for this; the ECCS controls it based on time and a physics equation. I studied the system pretty closely before I ripped it out.
  15. Hey all. I just started building a new air plenum for a cold air system/popcharger, maybe even some boost farther down the road. Reason being, I hate that giant airbox on my TB. I'e got everything mocked up and had it in today. Works great, so I'm gonna pop over to a friends for some welding and finishing. Two things I need help with tho: I'm losing the warm air intake, so do I need that vacuum setup from inside the normal plenum or can i just cap it off behind the TB without any issues? Second, has anybody disconnected their AB valve? My plan is to weld the fitting for it to the new plenum, but If I don't have to I'd rather not. Updates to come as the project continues...
  16. Are you gradually slowing down or is it an immediate change if you're an auto tranny it might not be kicking down---try going up the hill in 2, if no go, try 1(in that order). This might solve your problem. if you're a manual...shift down as your rpm drops. these are HEAVY trucks and forth gear doesn't like hills very much; 5th likes it even less. If you're still cutting out, the timing might be off, or the fuel pump harness might be loose. Check these after you test the gears. harness is easy; it's mounted to the frame behind the rear passenger tire. just have someone hold your rpm(in neutral) at 2000and fiddle with the wires on either side of the harness and anything wrong will be noticed. to check the timing, ask a mechanic really nice and give him like 15 bucks. or while driving, shift up 2500rpm (auto trans start in 2) and just watch your tach while you accelerate. you engine should "stumble and groan" until about 2000rpm and then slowly get better up to 2400. if its not getting better until about 2600 or higher you're timing is set too high. adjust accordingly or see a mechanic.(this is what happens in a TBI. in MPFI it whould behave the same but at different rpms as the TBI's peak hp is 2400rpm and the MPFI is ????). yours should be 15btdc and it won't be set lower because nobody would do that. If none of that works you need a tune up. and if that doesn't work, check for trouble codes. you should see one that tells you everything is fine. that's all i have. good luck
  17. if anybody wants to have a little fun, do what I do. go for a loooong drive, and then bring it to a shop on a slow day; preferably where a friend works so he can do it. Then "visit" him in the shop and laugh while he burns his arm on the exhaust manifold. I do it it to a Canadian Tire Mechanic twice a year cause he f^^ked up my brakes once...... It's the small things in life...
  18. sounds like somebody went to Maaco.....don't
  19. x2. M/S= Mud and Snow. I'm running motomaster M/S(canadian tire branded ltx's). They're fantastic for everyting you need in the city as ong as you don't need to turn in the rain or on ice. Great for pavement and dirt track. I don't know how much mud they are rated for, but it can't be too much. And, they're horrible at -40C(-40f for americans). over all it's a good "kinda everything" tire.
  20. I'm surprised nobody else noticed, but you're "non-nascar" cars are still making left turns. IS IT TOO MUCH TO ASK JUST TOO SEE A CAR MAKE A REALLY FAST RIGHT TURN??? Speed Channel needs to google british tour racing, and off-road track racing. Or maybe just show some people going over speed-bumps. NO MORE LEFT TURNS ALLOWED!
  21. Things like this happen because it's a pathfinder. That's the conclusion I came to when my clutch pedal started falling to the floor while I was riding it(reverse only). It only ever did it 3 times on the same day, and then never, ever, again. The whole not panicking thing, I think, only ever happens with pathy owners as we think "wtf is it now".
  22. ok so and idiot took apart his whoe fue system, cleaning and replacing everything he could...nothing. then he took his air plenum off to check his injector, after reading a thread in here....nothing. same idiot is putting everything back together and notices two piched off vaccuum hoses.... no more loss of power. one probem outta the way. next issue--bad starting/no fuel pressure(maybe). idiot replaces fuel pump and safety relay...nothing. idiot remembers that he forgot to put in his new gas cap whole servicing fuel system....those things vent for a reason. And, as it turns out, fuel pumps aren't too good at pulling against a vaccuum. turns out i need a new check vavle too. 6hrs and $100 whorth of new relays etc. and the problem was solved with a 9 DOLLAR GAS CAP. i think my truck has a sick sense of humour.
  23. i just read a thread about this yesterday. It's kicking around in here somewhere but i can't find it. The guy said it was his either his coolant temp. sensor, or the cyinder head temp sensor; when it goes the ECU starts dumping a tonne of fuel into you engine cuasing it to run as yours does. sorry i can't remember which sensor it was, but if you type in "14 miles" in the search bar you'lll find a bunch of guys talking about it.
  24. you'll have to weld in a repacement. I think i used 5/16" fender washers. you don't need a cup or anything to hold the bushing as ong as the washer is a snug fit around the spacer you'll get with the new bushing kit. what you're going to have to check is how badly your compression rod is worn underneath the old bushing; which could be sort of fused to the rod(use a wire brush on a bench grinder). If its worn into the rod more than 1/8" replace it immediately. if its less, use your judgement; Mine were about 1/8" worn where the compression rod was rubbing on the frame, I didn't replace it and it's held up well for about a year of HEAVY use. This is a pretty big job. you'll need: impact wrench + sockets large adjustable wrench wheels blocks( if you do it on the ground**) acetylene torch if all goes wrong proper size METRIC replacement nut( if you have to use the torch. welder+someone who can weld. my suggestion is that you have the new bushing kit, compression rod, and all tools on hand before you start and return what you don't use. I did mine in a Canadian Tire Garage so I had everything i needed, and could just go and buy anything else that came up. If i hadn't had that i woulda been f^&ked. good luck
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