frecklecolouredbrain

There are to parts to the AIV. There is the air box, and the control box. The control box has vacuum operated valve connected to a vaccuum solenoid that is controled by a relay; all behind the airbox. The system operates via the EAV tube connected to the exhaust manifold. Between each puff of exhaust, there is a tiny vacuum that allows the outside air pressure to enter through the reeds in the airbox, and down to the cataytic convertor. during normal operation, the control box remains in the open position to allow air to freely pass. At higher rpm, there is not enough time between exhaust puffs to suck in enough air, so the vacuum solenoid closes the control box until enough vacuum is produced. the control box then opens, allowing air to pass in for a few seconds before closing again. There is no sensor for this; the ECCS controls it based on time and a physics equation. I studied the system pretty closely before I ripped it out.

Hey all. I just started building a new air plenum for a cold air system/popcharger, maybe even some boost farther down the road. Reason being, I hate that giant airbox on my TB. I'e got everything mocked up and had it in today. Works great, so I'm gonna pop over to a friends for some welding and finishing. Two things I need help with tho: I'm losing the warm air intake, so do I need that vacuum setup from inside the normal plenum or can i just cap it off behind the TB without any issues? Second, has anybody disconnected their AB valve? My plan is to weld the fitting for it to the new plenum, but If I don't have to I'd rather not. Updates to come as the project continues...

Are you gradually slowing down or is it an immediate change if you're an auto tranny it might not be kicking down---try going up the hill in 2, if no go, try 1(in that order). This might solve your problem. if you're a manual...shift down as your rpm drops. these are HEAVY trucks and forth gear doesn't like hills very much; 5th likes it even less. If you're still cutting out, the timing might be off, or the fuel pump harness might be loose. Check these after you test the gears. harness is easy; it's mounted to the frame behind the rear passenger tire. just have someone hold your rpm(in neutral) at 2000and fiddle with the wires on either side of the harness and anything wrong will be noticed. to check the timing, ask a mechanic really nice and give him like 15 bucks. or while driving, shift up 2500rpm (auto trans start in 2) and just watch your tach while you accelerate. you engine should "stumble and groan" until about 2000rpm and then slowly get better up to 2400. if its not getting better until about 2600 or higher you're timing is set too high. adjust accordingly or see a mechanic.(this is what happens in a TBI. in MPFI it whould behave the same but at different rpms as the TBI's peak hp is 2400rpm and the MPFI is ????). yours should be 15btdc and it won't be set lower because nobody would do that. If none of that works you need a tune up. and if that doesn't work, check for trouble codes. you should see one that tells you everything is fine. that's all i have. good luck

if anybody wants to have a little fun, do what I do. go for a loooong drive, and then bring it to a shop on a slow day; preferably where a friend works so he can do it. Then "visit" him in the shop and laugh while he burns his arm on the exhaust manifold. I do it it to a Canadian Tire Mechanic twice a year cause he f^^ked up my brakes once...... It's the small things in life...

sounds like somebody went to Maaco.....don't

x2. M/S= Mud and Snow. I'm running motomaster M/S(canadian tire branded ltx's). They're fantastic for everyting you need in the city as ong as you don't need to turn in the rain or on ice. Great for pavement and dirt track. I don't know how much mud they are rated for, but it can't be too much. And, they're horrible at -40C(-40f for americans). over all it's a good "kinda everything" tire.

I'm surprised nobody else noticed, but you're "non-nascar" cars are still making left turns. IS IT TOO MUCH TO ASK JUST TOO SEE A CAR MAKE A REALLY FAST RIGHT TURN??? Speed Channel needs to google british tour racing, and off-road track racing. Or maybe just show some people going over speed-bumps. NO MORE LEFT TURNS ALLOWED!

Things like this happen because it's a pathfinder. That's the conclusion I came to when my clutch pedal started falling to the floor while I was riding it(reverse only). It only ever did it 3 times on the same day, and then never, ever, again. The whole not panicking thing, I think, only ever happens with pathy owners as we think "wtf is it now".

i just read a thread about this yesterday. It's kicking around in here somewhere but i can't find it. The guy said it was his either his coolant temp. sensor, or the cyinder head temp sensor; when it goes the ECU starts dumping a tonne of fuel into you engine cuasing it to run as yours does. sorry i can't remember which sensor it was, but if you type in "14 miles" in the search bar you'lll find a bunch of guys talking about it.

you'll have to weld in a repacement. I think i used 5/16" fender washers. you don't need a cup or anything to hold the bushing as ong as the washer is a snug fit around the spacer you'll get with the new bushing kit. what you're going to have to check is how badly your compression rod is worn underneath the old bushing; which could be sort of fused to the rod(use a wire brush on a bench grinder). If its worn into the rod more than 1/8" replace it immediately. if its less, use your judgement; Mine were about 1/8" worn where the compression rod was rubbing on the frame, I didn't replace it and it's held up well for about a year of HEAVY use. This is a pretty big job. you'll need: impact wrench + sockets large adjustable wrench wheels blocks( if you do it on the ground**) acetylene torch if all goes wrong proper size METRIC replacement nut( if you have to use the torch. welder+someone who can weld. my suggestion is that you have the new bushing kit, compression rod, and all tools on hand before you start and return what you don't use. I did mine in a Canadian Tire Garage so I had everything i needed, and could just go and buy anything else that came up. If i hadn't had that i woulda been f^&ked. good luck

the poster got it a little wrong J= japan N= nissan( just as H=honda...bleh, and T=toyota) 8= vehicle type for manufacturer...yes it means MP. it has to. there is nothing sport about it. ***interesting note*** I looked at a late 80s chevy wagon...same character. this is what brought about the "chicken tax" for more info check this link Linky

I tried this a while back and had nothing but trouble; almost like she was getting TOO much air. I suggest eku, that if you're gonna try this look at the mixture heater first. There were 2 different heaters between 87 and 89. One had 1cm spaces in the grid(like mine), and the other had 3mm spaces; so I think nissan figured out the restriction issue and corrected it.

So uh.....does anyone in here know the difference between xe and se?

Ha! I did the same thing just before winter. The sad thing is that I know It will only last so long. Now, if they only made plastic rocker panel covers I'd be laughin'

Nissan design the system like this for a reason, why would you want to change it? I mean you CAN go to the parts store and buy wires with the proper sockets in them and spend all day putting them in, and then putting them in again the next day cause you forgot something. And then, putting new fuses in every time you accidentally drop a wrench on them, or when you drive through a big puddle. After all that, all you've done is spend $45 to replace something that works perfectly fine.

you're probably pushing the switch the wrong way. 1. turn power on. 2. flip the to the left(toward rear seat when the switch is facing the passenger seat). ***one or both lights will flash once(modeI), then twice(modeII) etc. up to mode V, then repeat the sequence.*** 3. After the light flashes 3x (modeIII), flip the switch to the right(toward the front of the truck). ***You have to be ready on the switch for this! If you wait for the flashes and then go to the switch you won't have enough time, and end up on modeIV*** 4. watch for a few seconds, then count the flashes. i can't remember which colour goes first, but the first light is for the first digit and the second light is for the second digit. 5. write the number down and look at the lights again, just incase there is a second code you missed, and to verify the code you wrote down. 6a. Check in your haynes manual for the code. 6b. go buy a haynes manual as they are really handy ***If the code you got is not in the manual, you didn't do step 5 properly. hope this helps

I got around this one by installing '95 dor panels and wiring up the the locks to the newer console. No more broken plastic lock-thingies(the wreckers was running low), and the switches actually look like they were supposed to be there and not like a crappy box stuck to where the window crank should be. The added bonus is that without the rear doors i have 2 extra switches...I'm thinking water guns just so i can be more of a jackass than usual. Tip: I don't suggest this unless you either GOOD at wiring, or have A LOT of patience.

check you math man. 280mi=450km. it has an 80L tank. out you bu 80L/450km=.177L/km x100= 17.7L/100km. these were rated at 15.5L/100km new, so you're doing pretty good. I'm sitting at 16L now, but i change my fluids more than i change underwear, and try to keep her in tip top shape. o€ne thing I found that might help...don't use octane booster. I don't know about you but mine really likes to burn higher octane fuel.

i oly had to take off 2 vac lines. i put them back on wrong and she wouldn't start so i switched them. i didn't have to take anything else off. I'm just gonna put the original back in tomorrow.

How was your idle when you rplaced the unit. I ask because i just did this mod today and my idle went NUTS. Revving up high, then dropping below 250rpm. it would do this 5 or 6 times before the engine shut down. I managed to fix the shutting down, but the idle is still erattic. The weirdest thing is that it's only while driving around. When I'm in my parking stall, outside, she idles close enoug tho fine for me not to worry.

the engine temp sensor isn't really buried. you can see it poking out of the intake manifold about 5 inches back from the timing belt. And , yes, you can check it without taking it out. Step one: find it. step two: take off the lead stepconnect c: connect a multi meter to the connector and the hex nut and check resistance----70-90+ ohms 4 : warm up engine and repeat. resistance should be between 20 and 40 if all is good then its the wire. if thats fine...it's the cyl.head temp sensor. in which case, repeat the steps. If this sensor(s)fauty it will cause you to eat gas as the ECCS won't go into "closed loop" mode, and run REALLY RICH all the time.But, it shouldn't cause stalling. That'd be something else, probably on the throttle body. Hard starting in the cold-----It;s a silly question but when's the last time you changed your oil?

thanks for the ATF tip terrano. I don't know why, but something tels me i should trust you on the cold weather tips.

it definately the t-case. i can hear the chain doin it's chain thing. just need to know if its normal to hear. fluids good, runs good, no crap on the plug at all. yes it clicks, but it's not a CV-type clicking as far as i can tell, and i don't feel it through the wheel. it started a little last winter, but only in reverse only on the outer wheel when turning. now its forward and reverse, outer wheel only when the wheels are past half way to max turn. could that be an Auto-Hub thing?

Should i be able to hear my transfer case chain? its really quiet, but I can hear it. Like I said, i just got by hearing back for the first time since before i bought the truck.

i had a similar but different problem in the summer. if i went really slow in reverse, while pressing the clutch a bit, it would depress ITSELF all the way to the floor and stay there until i puled it up. happened twice then never again. talked to a mechanic and he said "Why would that happen?".