frecklecolouredbrain

We live in the age of the instant gratification generation. Where, at the click of a button, anybody can watch a dude get run over by a tank, or a girl Sh&6@$%^ into another girl's mouth. These two specific examples have been available to the public since before the internet, you just had to pay alot of money, or travel to Germany. So now it's free, and everyone's mother thinks its there god-given right to say someone else's children can't watch it. We live in an age where people should be intelligent enough to know that they don't want access to everything. But they should be able to access it if they so choose. Oh... I saw that second thing I mentioned and it was gross. but then i found out that it was ice-cream....hunh.

sucks to hear the pain will get worse, but let us know how the first "trip" went. Doctors always seem to know what the best stuff going is.

It's an odd thing when something is SO UGLY that it's beautiful. But for some reason it only works with trucks.

the poster got it a little wrong J= japan N= nissan( just as H=honda...bleh, and T=toyota) 8= vehicle type for manufacturer...yes it means MP. it has to. there is nothing sport about it. ***interesting note*** I looked at a late 80s chevy wagon...same character. this is what brought about the "chicken tax" for more info check this link Linky

ok, so everything has been running great, and the problem never came back...until yesterday. And i discovered that its not a wire issue atleast, as it only happens if i start to drive before the engines is completey warmed up. and if it does happen, i just wait for it to warm up then turn my engine off. When i start her back up, everything is normal. But, if i don't do the restart the problem continues without throwing any codes. %$^&, I warm it up most of the time anyway, but if anyone has any ideas throw them my way, cause i'm stumped and my ECCS is a jerk.

I tried this a while back and had nothing but trouble; almost like she was getting TOO much air. I suggest eku, that if you're gonna try this look at the mixture heater first. There were 2 different heaters between 87 and 89. One had 1cm spaces in the grid(like mine), and the other had 3mm spaces; so I think nissan figured out the restriction issue and corrected it.

So uh.....does anyone in here know the difference between xe and se?

I never event hought to check that. thanks for the tip. I did check the codes Precise1, and came up with the standard "good luck figuring this one out" code 55.

Ha! I did the same thing just before winter. The sad thing is that I know It will only last so long. Now, if they only made plastic rocker panel covers I'd be laughin'

So I get back from seeing my brother in Toronto last Sunday and relax for the day without taking the truck out for a ride; It was reay hard not having it for a week. Monday morning is a new week, time to go to work. I hop in the driver's seat all ready to go and....no start. Wait a few minutes.....catches once and dies. Wait a few more and all I can hear from the engine bay is this rattle like a broken fire alarm. Turns out to be the fuel pump relay; nothing wrong, just the weird temperature swings we had while I was gone didn't agree with the truck, and now I have to wait a little longer for my fuel pump to prime the system...what ever. Yesterday, I'm getting ready to head to work, warming up the engine, cleaning windows etc. and I notice my tach drop to 200rpm for a second and come back up...OK, she does weird things every now and then so no bother. Well, half way to Tim's and i've got no power. None. No throttle response. Nothing, for 5 seconds unti...HERE WE GO; I forgot that i had kept the pedal down a little far. She did this about 15 times on my way across town, only under light acceleration, or just after putting my foot on the gas, lightly, after shifting. One of these times was great, because I ended up being slammed into my head rest 10 or 20 times, ans as a result, my neck and upper back don't want to go to work today. Never-the-less., it was an interesting drive and I was REALLY looking forward to the ride home. That wasn't as fun. Warming her up after work and no issues. I notice my idle a bit low so without thinking i go thru the steps: disonnect...., set idle and wait 2min, reconnect... wait a minute for eccs to figure it out, done. Everything is fine and your ready to go(i didn't do this last time). No more problems, no bucking, no power loss...WTF. I even tried to get it to happen...nothing. We'll just have to wait and see what tomorrow brings. As for now, I'm just gonna sit in this chair. Beacuse after yesterday's little escapade, It's about all I'm capable of. Well, not exactly. I can look straight forward; stand straight up(but it takes a minute);i can move all my fingers to type; and...If i try really hard, I can reach my beer. Cheers

Nissan design the system like this for a reason, why would you want to change it? I mean you CAN go to the parts store and buy wires with the proper sockets in them and spend all day putting them in, and then putting them in again the next day cause you forgot something. And then, putting new fuses in every time you accidentally drop a wrench on them, or when you drive through a big puddle. After all that, all you've done is spend $45 to replace something that works perfectly fine.

you're probably pushing the switch the wrong way. 1. turn power on. 2. flip the to the left(toward rear seat when the switch is facing the passenger seat). ***one or both lights will flash once(modeI), then twice(modeII) etc. up to mode V, then repeat the sequence.*** 3. After the light flashes 3x (modeIII), flip the switch to the right(toward the front of the truck). ***You have to be ready on the switch for this! If you wait for the flashes and then go to the switch you won't have enough time, and end up on modeIV*** 4. watch for a few seconds, then count the flashes. i can't remember which colour goes first, but the first light is for the first digit and the second light is for the second digit. 5. write the number down and look at the lights again, just incase there is a second code you missed, and to verify the code you wrote down. 6a. Check in your haynes manual for the code. 6b. go buy a haynes manual as they are really handy ***If the code you got is not in the manual, you didn't do step 5 properly. hope this helps

I got around this one by installing '95 dor panels and wiring up the the locks to the newer console. No more broken plastic lock-thingies(the wreckers was running low), and the switches actually look like they were supposed to be there and not like a crappy box stuck to where the window crank should be. The added bonus is that without the rear doors i have 2 extra switches...I'm thinking water guns just so i can be more of a jackass than usual. Tip: I don't suggest this unless you either GOOD at wiring, or have A LOT of patience.

check you math man. 280mi=450km. it has an 80L tank. out you bu 80L/450km=.177L/km x100= 17.7L/100km. these were rated at 15.5L/100km new, so you're doing pretty good. I'm sitting at 16L now, but i change my fluids more than i change underwear, and try to keep her in tip top shape. o€ne thing I found that might help...don't use octane booster. I don't know about you but mine really likes to burn higher octane fuel.

i oly had to take off 2 vac lines. i put them back on wrong and she wouldn't start so i switched them. i didn't have to take anything else off. I'm just gonna put the original back in tomorrow.

How was your idle when you rplaced the unit. I ask because i just did this mod today and my idle went NUTS. Revving up high, then dropping below 250rpm. it would do this 5 or 6 times before the engine shut down. I managed to fix the shutting down, but the idle is still erattic. The weirdest thing is that it's only while driving around. When I'm in my parking stall, outside, she idles close enoug tho fine for me not to worry.

the engine temp sensor isn't really buried. you can see it poking out of the intake manifold about 5 inches back from the timing belt. And , yes, you can check it without taking it out. Step one: find it. step two: take off the lead stepconnect c: connect a multi meter to the connector and the hex nut and check resistance----70-90+ ohms 4 : warm up engine and repeat. resistance should be between 20 and 40 if all is good then its the wire. if thats fine...it's the cyl.head temp sensor. in which case, repeat the steps. If this sensor(s)fauty it will cause you to eat gas as the ECCS won't go into "closed loop" mode, and run REALLY RICH all the time.But, it shouldn't cause stalling. That'd be something else, probably on the throttle body. Hard starting in the cold-----It;s a silly question but when's the last time you changed your oil?

ya but i've already been to thunderbay...it kinda blows up there for city people. great town, but to slooooowwwww

Going thru this post makes me wish I was back east. but i know my baby would never make it past emissions

thanks for the ATF tip terrano. I don't know why, but something tels me i should trust you on the cold weather tips.

it definately the t-case. i can hear the chain doin it's chain thing. just need to know if its normal to hear. fluids good, runs good, no crap on the plug at all. yes it clicks, but it's not a CV-type clicking as far as i can tell, and i don't feel it through the wheel. it started a little last winter, but only in reverse only on the outer wheel when turning. now its forward and reverse, outer wheel only when the wheels are past half way to max turn. could that be an Auto-Hub thing?

Should i be able to hear my transfer case chain? its really quiet, but I can hear it. Like I said, i just got by hearing back for the first time since before i bought the truck.

i had a similar but different problem in the summer. if i went really slow in reverse, while pressing the clutch a bit, it would depress ITSELF all the way to the floor and stay there until i puled it up. happened twice then never again. talked to a mechanic and he said "Why would that happen?".

i wonder if its still down there. Probably has a few good parts left on her

He also works for me at SuperStore(loblaw/Zehrs) And I gave him Christmas off to fly home to Toronto. Thanks for the gril offer, but my local Pathfinder Store(Affiliated Auto Wreckers) has one that he stashed while. I'n not gonna pick it up until figure out where and how to cut it to fit the side markers. They are from an older HB and not notched to fit my grill. but everything is on and working; dirty like the one i replaced in November, but working.