frecklecolouredbrain

if you're taking them off you're going to have to cut them. when I did mine I soaked them in just about everything I could think of for a few days. 3 of them came off, but i had to use an air ratchet tto turn the bolt, with an impact gun turning/hammering the nut. The last one jammed up half way off and I had to cut it. Luckily a friend had a spare one kicking around in his toolbox. Before you start, find out if it's easier to do the job on the ground; I put mine on a hoist, but when i tried to put the rods back in I just couldn't get them to line up. Maybe someone else in here has tried it? good luck. mine took about 45 minutes, with 4 hours of swearing and 15 minutes with the biggest pry-bar I've even seen.

I'm due for some new clutch/brake fluid in January so maybe that could be the problem. I was just checking to see if it was another "nissan specific" thing that was happening. and yes, I live here(moved here) on purpose. But not for much longer I hope.....It's cold.

So, it's -34C up here in Saskatchewan(Ya..brrr), and i have one question for the Canadians in the crowd. Has anybody figured out the frozen clutch problem? 'Cause thats alotta fun to deal with. The further I drive the stiffer the pedal gets, until it hits about the #8 stairmaster setting. I'm just afraid that if I don't solve it now, my left leg will be the size of a bus by the time it spring comes. But hey... atleast it only take 15 minutes for mollasses in my gearbox to loosen up(just say NO to Lucas Additives).

it took my oil change guy 3 changes before he realized that the rubber in the wheel well was removable. it was alot of fun watching him burn his arm on the e.manifold. once he ried from underneath by tasking off the engine guard and smashed his head on the bumper. as for the oil on the starter...just drain the oil first, then all you have to do is....who am i kidding What A MESS-O-CRAP that stuff makes.

why be surprised? Pathfinders are manual everything: manual seats, manual intermitant-wiper control, manual daytime-running lights, manual cup holder, manual cargo area lighting(that might just be me),and a manual sun-roof. we got automatic windows tho..that's a nice touch. It was the Nissan way. Besides, what does anyone nedd with automatic seats? I haven't adjusted mine for about a year. Maybe for other drivers? Why would you go and do something like that?

i did this a while ago and had an issue with the switch not getting hot enough. engine temp would be at max before the 180C switch kicked on. measured the coolant and it turns out that when my coolant is at 200 my rad is 175-180. but I never got the controllable switch. On the plus side, it doesn't matter what speed i'm at, just the rad is enough to keep the needle centred; It only starts to overheat if I idle for a while, so i figure i'm just gonna wire the switch to my brake lights and put a manual over-ride in there somewhere. That way, if i forget about the switch, it'll come on while i'm at a red light. Everybody, put your hand up if you hate electrical too!!

if it's a Hayden fan, it'll just fit in front. and, the blade is reverisble. just make sure you have it spinning the proper direction and it;s all good. If you do screw up and get the direction wrong, you can wire it to spin backwards, but it's not the same airflow. That's what happened to me, but even with everything backwards it still does a better job of keeping things cool around town. idleing is a different story until i get an override switch put in

not a problem anymore, It turns out the wiring harness was rigged backwards. Switched some wires and, viola!

could be your fuel pressure. turn your key on and wait about ten seconds before you start the engine. if the choking doesn't happen, you need a new fuel filter. i had a similar problem when i bought my 89 last year.

hey we're all here to help each other out.

thanks for the diagram, but i tried a few things on my lunch today, and i think that my switch is faulty. either that or it's not getting to 185F. I'll have to test that out this sunday. I even tried direct power(fan came on) and direct power through the temp switch(fan stayed off). I'll leave it 'til sunday, cause i need a break from wiring.

tons more power tho

Yes, i'm doing the elec. fan. But, I'm having wirning issues. damned electrical.

After i gave up on my electric fan wiring I check this out the best that I could, without taking the filter bow off. As far as i can tell, the hose snakes along the bottom of the intake hose then connect to the cap on your charcoal canister. So, if the hose is missing form the cap on that, or is there but not connected to anything, thats where it goes. And it doesn't have anything to do with the Maf sensor. It's wear the TBI sucks in the gas vapours from you tank

that's my problem, it's not connected and the fan won't turn off; i put the fuse back in this orning..it was 10C outside. Fan came on. I just tried powering that wire and then it wouldn't turn on. It's hopeless.

red wire connect to battery black--- to gnd brown---to temp. switch on rad then temp switch to Keyed power with yellow wire green wire( runs off of brown wire)----to a/c control switch. --------this is to override the temp. switch and keep the fan on. orange wire + fuse----to fan power, there is a diode on the green wire. i'm imagining that override works by taking power from the a/c control(green wire), when the power is cut by the temp. switch(brown wire). this would give that relay terminal a constant power supply, keeping the fan on. I think i'm gonna just get in there with a multimeter tomorrow, try some things out, and if i blow the relay i'll just put a switchin the blank spot on my dash.

hey all I just swapped out the old fan/clutch for an electric fan and WOW what a power difference. I use a (hayden?) 16" with a TCI control switch. Works great, but i won't turn off. There is a wire that is supposed to hook to my A/C switch to override the thermostatic controller, but i don't have A/C. The little spanish piece of paper told me took hook it up to a toggle switch if i don't have a/c, but it doesn't say what that toggle is to be hooked up to. So, I figure that since it's a powered wire, the toggle should run to ground(which i tried), or the toggle runs to power(which i don't want to tried until i'm sure i won't blow the relay.) As for now i'm just pulling the fuse when i shut'er down. has anyone done this before? what am i doing wrong? I hate electrical!!!

does it rain that hard in oregan(?) to actually make that happen??? wow. dud, if you starter only clicks once when you turn the key it usually means that your battery is dead. please tell us that you checked that first.

These types of shops are great. When i lived in Toronto i had to use a few. They charged 20-30/hr or a 120/day flat rate. I had to sign an insurance waiver just incase i burned the place down, but that was never a problem. One of the ones i wen to was a little more cash40/hr..no flat rate. But, they had fully equipped, no charge, tool room, just like highschool shops. The guy behind the counter would order the parts for you if you needed. and, he was a Very experience retired mechanic. If you couldn't figure it out he would help diagnose for no charge

you might have a problem with your torque converter. I heard a bad one ther other day at a stoplight that sounded like a broken blender. When the light turned green, the truck drove forward and the sound disappeared totally. gotta love ford

i have the same high-idle issue in the cold, but it's because my warm air intake valve is a little sticky. once the outside temp is around 15C I get no problems (15-1700rpm). It may also have somethng to do with the little intake warmer/spacer under the TB. I just cleaned all the EGR crap off of it so I'll find out this winter. That sputtering is probably because you have the wrong size cold air setup, and your engine is breathing a little too easily(kinda like the wind blowing in your face when you take a big breathe) causing it to choke a little. I'm guessing at this because i reset my idle to 800 and found out that she'll stall after running for about five minutes with the air-filter out.

you all must have some different stuff down south...every jeep i see up here has good old-fashioned leafs in the rear.

why would you want leaf-springs in the rear? you planning on using the Path as a hauler?

i don't know about stud kits, but dorman is the #1 supplier for cast OEM parts. #1 supplier doesn't really mean #1 quality tho. A friend of mine works at Canadian Tire as the Mechanics liason/Auto guru, and he says Dorman is @!*% as far as cast steel parts go.

It is better to get the 180. I just put in a 175 and after it opens, the coolant keeps heating up to about 185. That may sound fine, but the last 5 degrees before my engine kicks down take a LONG time. The longer your thermo stays closed while warming up..the less time your engine stays in "open loop", and less gas she Chug-a-lugs.