frecklecolouredbrain

I say go with the 5 spoke. I've always had a thing for them. I went with these, but only cause they're aluminum and the whole set was $150 CDN off an isuzu racing truck at the wreckers. I would stil rather a 5 spoke

My tb doesn't have this screw; just a mold mark where the hole for the screw should be. I guess Nissan figured they didn't need it on the 89's.

never noticed it either. But, based on where it is and where it's pointing, I'd say it a stop adjust for the butterfly valve. And yes, tomorrow is my day off and I'm gonna go and see what is does. Also, I'd replace that stainless steel nut (the red one) with regular zinc coated steel before that rust gets worse. Ever see a rusted out bbq burner? that is how it happens; stainless an aluminum= bad news

I had that same "swing effect" happening. when i had it up on a hoist, I noticed that my rear left lower link was a little loose on the bushing at the axle. When i'd step on the gas the rear axle would move before the truck did, and because on link was more loose than the other, this would cause the axle to want to turn a bit and put a lateral force on the front of the truck. thats what the lifting is or should be. when i replaced the link, the swing went in the opposite direction, because i still had the original on the right an new one on the left....scary feeling when your not expecting it. here is an example of bad bushings. just crawl under and try to move them with your hand; if the twist or give Any movement you should look into check/replace. FYI new links and bolts are $222.40 from the dealerand take 20 minutes to replace. new bushings are about $50 per side and not worth the hassle IMO

is that the thing by my left knee with all the plastic strips in it?? theres some blue ones and red ones and stuff with numbers like 10, 15, 5 and 20. What does that thing do??? this s fun

I so wanted to beat someone to the that last reply. #### now I got nothin. So there is a sticker under my hood that says 850 rpm. is that where my tach should be when cruising or what? I love idiots

quick tip: ignition temp for gasoline engines= 800C propane burns at 1977C. just thought i'd throw than in there for ya

talk about procastination. it's been 8 months and finally got around to replacing the front, so i figured I'd post it in here. pic pic got em thru http://www.probodyparts.com. it's almost like taking your grandpa to get a new set of teeth

23mpg sounds about right for a highway rating on these. but 11mpg city is horrible. I'm in a TBI with a bad O2 sensor and I'm getting 14mpg. and I drive it like it was stolen.

---look up--- no not there... i mean the previous post

ok I just got back from trying this out. the disconnect wasn't that hard since i no longer have an airbox to remove. And I'm not too sure about it; it seems kinda peppy almost, but i may have been doing something different. That and there was somebody in front of me on the free-way ramp i use to test acceleration, so i couldn't really give it. I'll know more tomorrow. ----------------------- Here's the business. acellerating: 2k-3k ---same 3k-4k ---same 4k-5k ---have power to 4400 where before it just gave up at 4k-4.1k cruising: feels smoother at all rpms. almost feels like the engine wants you to step on the gas. throttle response: totally different. when I step on it to pass some one, or just for fun, it's all right there; ready to go. And, does what you want. I think its definately worth tinkering with to find a way to switch the system on and off. But, I'm hooking it back up in the morning until I come up with and way to toggle it.

good idea, but you should check when it opens up before you go a-monkeyin around. stick you finger under the valve(with the engine off) and push up to get an idea of how much it moves. then with the engine running, rev it up while touching the underside of the valve(gets a little warm in there so use a glove). At a certain rpm you should feel the valve open; mine does this between 22 and 2800rpm. so if your looking for power at a lower rpm I wouldn't worry to much about it. but you've given me an idea. Has anyone else in here capped off the egr and noticed a power gain? If so it might be a good idea to mod up a switch so it can be shut off when runing through the gears.

somebody else's link i found this link after a quick search in here. check it out, but yours might be a switch on the right side and the light on the top and left side. then look it up in a haynes or post it here, somebody will tell you what it is. if it says 55, good luck. just my pennies worth though. I had a similar problem int the cold(-20C) and it turned out to be my fast idle cam out of adjustment. go to the 87-89 section of the forum and look at the TBI thread. and buy a haynes manual things like this are all in there.

what for? and yes you can. just pinch off the vacuum hose that connects to the airbox. If there is no vacuum on that line the solenoid won't know when to engage. you might have to close the smaller hose to the rear of the TB aswell. what for?

I've hit 106(170kph) on a dead flat road. It took a while too; good thing I'm in Saskatchewan(thats in Canada). What I like the most about these trucks going that fast is the feeling that you're not entirely connected to any road surface at all.

nope. thats for the 91-95. we have different wiring around the TB. I really just wanted to know if anyone actually had these connected to stuff and what that stuff was.

any gl5 80w90 will do the job. just buy from a reputable brand name.

Its really hard to tell. When I outted the cat and stock fan, I noticed a huge difference. After the intake it felt like maybe 1/2 the increase I got from removing the fan and everything runs SO much smoother. Add in the look and sound of it and I'd say It a pretty good deal for $100. I probably won't get the full effect until I put on the pacesetters that are sitting in my storage room. But that will have to wait until I don't need the truck for a few days. All in, I've taken about 2.5 seconds off of the stock acceleration times, and the low-end torque feels a bit better. I plan on putting it an a dyno to see what i'm getting at the wheel, before I decide whether I want to go forced induction or not. That's next summer's project. I'm curious to see how you got the 300zx engine in there. I wanted to, but I thought I wouldn't fit with the DOHC and all the extra piping. Did you swap ECU's for fuel mgmt.

if i were honestly going for "more" performance, i'd think about the shield. The reason I put it in was 1. for a little bit more-than-stock performance(which it has), and 2. It looks great and sounds RETARDED as i pull away from newer pathies at the green light.

are we all just the same people in different colour trucks? thats awesome. but i'd really like to know what some of these harnesses are for. so would a bunch of us i'm sure. I figure that #1 is for cruise control. anybody have it hooked up? but whats the one with the jumper in it, behind the battery? or the little white one branching from the crank sensor pick-up. And if all the wiring harnesses are the same, why isn't there an A/C plug anywhere in the engine bay? lets get some pics up. Of who has what pllugged in, or who has another "mystery connector". I guess i should have stated that this should be more like game than anything else right from the get-go.

and pic #4 is fixed. Is that one for my interior heater???

ok I'll try again then: I'm sorry, but you're wrong about the 2 pin connector hanging loose over the right valve cover. It's not for the air/fuel mixture heater. That 2 pin connector is fixed to a plastic mount toward the rear of the same valve cover; under, and slightly behind the fuel lines. That harness is well connected to the mixture heater. I tried to get my thoughts across a little clearer, but all I did was find a long winded way to say that the connector for my heater is hooked up. oh, and I actually am a smart-ass. so feel free to call me one.

i thought that was what the pipe was for, but you're wrong about the connector. my heater is hooked up.

So we all have a bunch of random connectors and such that aren't hooked up to anything; just like the title says. Does anyone know what they are? Does anyone have them connected to anything? If so, chime in or post a pic. I've always wondered what the mystery connectors were for, and It might also be helpful for others. Click the links for a bigger picture. 1. click ...and what is that little pipe for on the firewall? 2. click 3. click 4. click 5. click 6. click and this is where my AIV used to be. don't worry about the bare wires, they were for the aiv solenoid but thats gone.

did you check the harness connector for the fuel pump? I had an issue with a loose connection there a while back.