frecklecolouredbrain

I've played this game before..check out the post Things not connected to stuff. i have the same connector, i'm sure everyone does. its not for the shocks, cause my shock connectors are in the wheel wells. and this one behind the battery has a factory jumper wire plugged into it. you have A/C?

now for my question. does the manual list how the injectors fire? i know its mastly injector a that runs, but when both are firing, is it sequential or simultaneous.

try adjusting your fast idle cam. It should be listed in your haynes manual. if you don't have one, you should pick one up dude they are super heloful for all the small stuf like that.

lemme know what you need

x2 on this. I starting running 15w40 in the summer and it smoothed out alot of little noises. hpw

looking at them they are the same. all the wires match up to the right pins and components. I just looks like the 2 manual arranged things differently. If the first one is from Mitchell's go with that one. My mitchell's diagram (1989) was spot on to the pont where almost all the nca(no coloour assigned) were all the same colour.

Kinda funny thing. I was reading this yesterday and thinking you've got some work cut out for you on the wiring match-up. checked in today and as soon as I saw that you'd figured it all out, I remembered that I have ALL the info you needed written on a printed out z31 wiring diagram from when I was thinking of swapping out fuel systems and going turbo.

-the earlier Z-car i6's were only 7 lbs heavier than our V's(nissan4u.com) -I do agree with the sound. I like hearing two Geo Metros doing battle under my hood. Skyline's i6 was only replaced for the 1 reason everyone is kai-boshing the design; V6's are more space-efficient, and give the car a better overall wieght balance

soak whatever bolts/nuts your removing with Release-all penetrating oil and solvent. I just use 1/2 a can on my manifold studs and exhaust bolts...not one broken and almost all of them came off. Also, if a nut siezes(?) on a stud, there is so much lube in there that the whole stud just comes right out. No more snaooing off at the block. CAUTION: no smoking, and things get a little messy.

that's cause its a 93. Those cowls have cross mesh in them to make the holes small; that's why I switched for them instead of the earlier ones. which are just 3/8 inch slats with 3/8 inch gap between them. as they say..the hole was that big | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | but really twice as wide(I can't firgure out how to make the text box do what I want).

Im gonna X2 on this check the rear upper links for any play. if they are loose youre axle is going to want to spin, but the lower link or prop shaft wont let it. This might cause a vibration.

thats AWESOME. I have like 90 of these rivets. Every time I go to the JY I steal a bunch. Those, and the grille snaps. Ya never know when ya need em.

I don't know about averyone else, but mine does exactly what I wnat , when I want and it doesn't piss and moan a lot about it. It starts better then newer cars; runs better than newer cars, and, resonds better than newer cars. When it kicks up a fuss, I can tell exactly whats wrong. And, my ORIGINAL O2 sensor is stil in perfect working order, even with burnt off insulation and 303k km on the engine(I KNOW)!! Best off all. I was looking at her tonite from my balcony, and man is she pretty; I want to say I'm gonna drive her forever, but wouldn't be surprised if I actually do. Love...is a many spenldoured(splendored for USAese) thing. Or maybe, it's just a 2-door Pathfinder

I say go with the 5 spoke. I've always had a thing for them. I went with these, but only cause they're aluminum and the whole set was $150 CDN off an isuzu racing truck at the wreckers. I would stil rather a 5 spoke

My tb doesn't have this screw; just a mold mark where the hole for the screw should be. I guess Nissan figured they didn't need it on the 89's.

never noticed it either. But, based on where it is and where it's pointing, I'd say it a stop adjust for the butterfly valve. And yes, tomorrow is my day off and I'm gonna go and see what is does. Also, I'd replace that stainless steel nut (the red one) with regular zinc coated steel before that rust gets worse. Ever see a rusted out bbq burner? that is how it happens; stainless an aluminum= bad news

I had that same "swing effect" happening. when i had it up on a hoist, I noticed that my rear left lower link was a little loose on the bushing at the axle. When i'd step on the gas the rear axle would move before the truck did, and because on link was more loose than the other, this would cause the axle to want to turn a bit and put a lateral force on the front of the truck. thats what the lifting is or should be. when i replaced the link, the swing went in the opposite direction, because i still had the original on the right an new one on the left....scary feeling when your not expecting it. here is an example of bad bushings. just crawl under and try to move them with your hand; if the twist or give Any movement you should look into check/replace. FYI new links and bolts are $222.40 from the dealerand take 20 minutes to replace. new bushings are about $50 per side and not worth the hassle IMO

is that the thing by my left knee with all the plastic strips in it?? theres some blue ones and red ones and stuff with numbers like 10, 15, 5 and 20. What does that thing do??? this s fun

I so wanted to beat someone to the that last reply. #### now I got nothin. So there is a sticker under my hood that says 850 rpm. is that where my tach should be when cruising or what? I love idiots

quick tip: ignition temp for gasoline engines= 800C propane burns at 1977C. just thought i'd throw than in there for ya

23mpg sounds about right for a highway rating on these. but 11mpg city is horrible. I'm in a TBI with a bad O2 sensor and I'm getting 14mpg. and I drive it like it was stolen.

---look up--- no not there... i mean the previous post

ok I just got back from trying this out. the disconnect wasn't that hard since i no longer have an airbox to remove. And I'm not too sure about it; it seems kinda peppy almost, but i may have been doing something different. That and there was somebody in front of me on the free-way ramp i use to test acceleration, so i couldn't really give it. I'll know more tomorrow. ----------------------- Here's the business. acellerating: 2k-3k ---same 3k-4k ---same 4k-5k ---have power to 4400 where before it just gave up at 4k-4.1k cruising: feels smoother at all rpms. almost feels like the engine wants you to step on the gas. throttle response: totally different. when I step on it to pass some one, or just for fun, it's all right there; ready to go. And, does what you want. I think its definately worth tinkering with to find a way to switch the system on and off. But, I'm hooking it back up in the morning until I come up with and way to toggle it.

good idea, but you should check when it opens up before you go a-monkeyin around. stick you finger under the valve(with the engine off) and push up to get an idea of how much it moves. then with the engine running, rev it up while touching the underside of the valve(gets a little warm in there so use a glove). At a certain rpm you should feel the valve open; mine does this between 22 and 2800rpm. so if your looking for power at a lower rpm I wouldn't worry to much about it. but you've given me an idea. Has anyone else in here capped off the egr and noticed a power gain? If so it might be a good idea to mod up a switch so it can be shut off when runing through the gears.

somebody else's link i found this link after a quick search in here. check it out, but yours might be a switch on the right side and the light on the top and left side. then look it up in a haynes or post it here, somebody will tell you what it is. if it says 55, good luck. just my pennies worth though. I had a similar problem int the cold(-20C) and it turned out to be my fast idle cam out of adjustment. go to the 87-89 section of the forum and look at the TBI thread. and buy a haynes manual things like this are all in there.