gv280z

Why would you bother with gutting the cat when you can just go to Midas or it might be Meinike and get a high flow cat installed for like $80? Its legal, its free flow of exhaust and they do all the work!

hehe...ahem "Here, Honey can you hold this for a minute please?" "hold WHAT?!? WE'RE EFFING OUT OF CONTROL AND ABOUT TO CRASH NUMNUTS!" "Well, yes I know and it's just that I just got this 44 ounce big gulp and I don't want to spill it but I must move it so that I may engage the parking brake, which is located under the cup holder, you see." " {garbled incoherent cursing scream}"

The armrest is great, I like the arm rest, I wish my silverado had one, it doesn't have any console at all.

Hurray for Chrysler / Dodge Corp. for opening the door to small light duty diesel engines in the U. S. of A-MARE-RICCA! Yes! Check it!: http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/02/14/ram-to-build-only-light-duty-diesel-pickup/?intcmp=features Now that Dodge has done this, the others are going to have to compete once they see it take off. Finally we're going to get to have the small torquey diesel engines they have overseas.

if it ever came to that, it wouldn't be hard to rip that thing out of there and give the E brake a yank.

Here is my totally awesome cup holder / console mod that works perfectly and I give a 1000% functionality / livability rating for it. Results guaranteed! It's this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HOP9/EMICBEI/N0319.oap?ck=Search_consoles_-1_-1&keyword=consoles I found at O'reilly auto parts and it cost around 7 or 8 bucks. It's a nice tight fit between the two front seats and sits directly over the E-brake and kinda covers up my toggle switches but that doesn't bother me any. I had to make a couple of cuts on it to make it work comfortably. You'll see in the pics wear I cut a section off the back, I did this to allow for clearance so it would fit down over the "toggle switch housing" Then I made two long cuts about 2.5" apart on both sides of the console to make it more pliable. Before making any of these cuts, when I would wedge it between the seats I found that the pressure of the corners of the console pushing through the cushion of my seat to be painful and annoying. Once I cut the back plastic piece off, and made the two cuts on both sides, it allowed it to slide further back so that the broad wide portion of the console is next to my thigh instead of the corner. So that combinded with the "flexi / pliable" cuts, no more pain and I can drive in comfort and completely forget I've got a mini console putting pressure against my seat. It's totally stable, it gives me a place to throw my junk and the cup holders are adjustable. It's great!

Are you kidding, I drive around like that sometimes and that is an integral part of my "Driving while my son shoots through the popped up window at enemies chasing us" plan.

My foglight toggle switch, well actually all my toggle switches (window release, foglight, suspension sport / comfort and alarm) are all situated around the emergency brake on the front of the console. Are not all the 94/95 SE's this way? My dimmer knob is in the same spot as the one pictured above though. I know my truck was purchased new in Washington state and then it came south at some point. I've got a great cupholder mod for you guys btw! It's perfect, pictures later.

I realize now it's due in large part to having the outside white lettering. That adds a degree of dimensionality that wasn't there before. My son and I did very briefly go offroad earlier today kinda in the back of our neighborhood where there is a wet muddy grassy area next to a cow pasture and we have had some rain here the last couple of days. I think I got kinda stuck for a moment (I didn't try real hard to power out of it while in rear wheel drive only) Shifting into 4 hi got me right out of it but that wasn't even a real legitimate test, although it seemed to me to a lot slippery'er and queasy feeling than I would have liked for my awesome brand new tires. My truck doesn't roll so badly in turns now and bumps and sharp creases in the road are much less jarring.

I'm so confused, I tried to fix this. Trog how did you post my pics? I tried to go back and edit and it wouldn't let me repost my new edit..

Got my new tires mounted and I'm really happy with them so far. The thing that really gets me is how they change the entire look of the entire vehicle and even make the lego rims look more acceptable to me now than before. before: <a href="http://s195.beta.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/IMG_20130212_152845_zpsd9879f88.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/IMG_20130212_152845_zpsd9879f88.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20130212_152845_zpsd9879f88.jpg"/></a> after!: <a href="http://s195.beta.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/IMG_20130212_162303_zps7e11b348.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/IMG_20130212_162303_zps7e11b348.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20130212_162303_zps7e11b348.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s195.beta.photobucket.com/user/gv280z/media/IMG_20130212_153902_zps53cb064e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/IMG_20130212_153902_zps53cb064e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20130212_153902_zps53cb064e.jpg"/></a>

Well guys I finally bit the big rubber one today and ordered a set of 31" x 10.50 / 15" Cooper discoverer AT/3 tires Probably have them mounted by the end of next week. With the pro rate on my current set of highway tread Kumhos at $20 per tire, final out the door was like $830 at Discount Tire. Yay! Finally I get big fat all terrain tires and the correct size that supposed to be there! I'm so happy And now my over years worth of tire this and that and research can finally come to an end. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z29/gv280z/2011-10-02171842.jpg

Wow, you're like the Monster Garage equivalent for Nissan Pathfinders! That's insane man. Love the build up.

Funny you should ask! I just ran across this earlier today when replying in my original post up above: http://compare.ebay.com/like/310351564359?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar BOOM SHAKALAKA! Also found this too but I'm not the type to mess with it, I wouldn't want to have to cut the upholstery and all of that yada whatever but I know some of you guys do: http://compare.ebay.com/like/230593173196?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

I installed 4 Rockford Fosgate 5"x7" (stock size) speakers in my truck and they rock hard and sound great. I got the 2 pair from Car Toys for like $70 per pair. Since I'm a mutant with 4 arms the rear speakers were a cinch, just pop out the cover screens with a flat head screw driver and remove the 4 screws holding the speaker in, disconnect the wires, which for me was a matter of unplugging them from the stock speakers. For the new speakers however, I did have to cut the plug off and strip the wire back, paying attention to pos and neg, soldered the wires to the new speakers. The hard part *(unless you have 4 arms, or a buddy, and I actually did this by myself and with only my normal old God given two arm setup )* is mounting the new speakers. The old screws aren't long enough for the new speaks so you have to use the little black clip and screw system they give you for mounting hardware. This entails holding the clip in place while putting the screw through the speaker, and screw into the clip while holding the 2 pound speaker above your head. It's a pain in the you know what. Once your done with the rear you can go take a nap. The front speaks removal / install is at once easier and harder than the rear. Read this, it's what got me through my front door speaker install: http://www.ehow.com/how_7230725_speaker-installation-1995-nissan-pathfinder.html Warning: Even though these are a great improvement over the stock speakers, the stock amp plus my 45 watt per channel Kenwood pushes them beyond the nice range (and that is REALLY LOUD) and a few times I have already considered going bigger and better, or maybe just better and same size, I've contemplated putting 6x9s in the rear for a little more power. My point is even though you'll be looking at a 200 watt speaker and you get them installed, you'll crank em up and up and up and then you'll start to feel like your falling just a few feet short of the finish line, ran the whole race and then tripped at the end. I wonder if I should have gotten the $99 a pair Infinity 5x7s instead of the $69 a pair. This being the pain in the "A" that it is just make sure you go big enough to keep you happy when you buy your new speakers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTwuNzpzRmw Here is a vid of a guy driving in snow using the Cooper Discoverer AT/3 tires.

It would be either General Grabber AT2 which are pinned for studs and have a nice aggressive tread, or Cooper Discoverer AT/3 which have great reviews for snowy weather driving. I'm about to get a set installed myself but not because of snow, I just want a great all terrain tire and I have experience with a great set of HT/P coopers which have the same tread compound and I'm 10,000 miles from meeting the warranty rating of 65,000 but they still have at least 8 or 9/32nd's of tread left.

HUH?!? -7 degree e e eeees??? How do you do anything in -7 degree weather? Or maybe just normal old Positive 7 degees and you're possibly contemplating doing this job laying in the street at the curb? I'd go broke living there, I'd be trying to have a small storage garage rented where you can pull inside, jeeez man. Good freezing luck!!

okay then, definetly NOT the clutch. At this point systematically you're back at square one with the basics. You already know it's not your intake or exhaust because those are opened up freely; so now it's about fuel, spark and engine management.

Okay, Edicer your pathy problem has just about got me beat, I got one more trick up my sleeve: Riddle me this, does the power loss ONLY occur when your in 4-High? Once the power loss does occur, what happens if you shift into 4 Low or 2 high; do you then get your torque back? I'm all tapped out, if it's not something in the transfer case that is somehow binding up or something, I just don't know. Oh yeah, when the power loss does happen, what does the engine do? Does it bog down and struggle or does it revv up to 5, 6000 rpm? This is weird because your truck is a manual, it's not complicated. The engine runs and there is a direct transfer of power to the ground. If the engine is still trying to make power and just flys away that would have to be a clutch issue. If the engine struggles and coughs and bogs then that would be something up top i.e. fuel, air, spark or exhaust flow, or engine management; ecu, egr. My final answer is either something weird in your transfer case or the clutch is just letting go after being pushed too hard but can still hang on for normal driving. That has to be it. Greg

Manual trans, throw out bearing going bad.

Oh Duh I just re-read your post and now I see you've got a manual, well it's good info for those with auto trannys anyway. 2.5" sounds kinda big to me for the exhaust, have you had strong torque up until recently? I would imagine you have sacrificed a good bit of your back pressure which equates to torque in leiu of more hp. The other thing I'm think of now is your timing advance, which I think is controlled by the ECU, right? That sectore of your computer might be failing. A worn out / slipping clutch would do this, it wouldn't bog out, it won't stress the engine because the clutch is not grabbing hold and sending power so the engine would spin more freely. Occam's Razor Sir.

I have had something (I think) similar happen to me before as well and I was on flat ground, I would push the gas and seem to have no power at all. Well come to find out the transmission wasn't downshifting, so I had been crawling through whatever in perhaps 2nd gear and this had all happened I realized while I had my power switch turned on. I turned it off, turned the truck off, restarted and voila got my pep back, I mean before I did that it was starting in 2nd gear from a cold start, it would start moving very sluggishly as you would expect. I've just recently had my trusted mechanic do a "Flash" on the transmission control module because sometimes it would stay in first for too long before shifting. That did fix it and it seems to run a lot better now and shift earlier, even my mpg seems to have improved a little. Might be something you want to ask about.

I get something like that every now and then but only on more severe jolts, I have begun to assume its the torsion bar "slapping" against the under-carriage.

Wow and I thought I was being a little silly because of a bad stereo reception, you guys flew past me like a rocket in all your efforts to make your antennas work, I'm way too lazy for the work that you guys did. I can still hear the motor running trying to raise an antenna that's not there, I don't care, just let it run. My ride is a 94 by the way but I don't think I've got any other type of glass / window antenna.