Pav

I have a NuStart that has not failed me yet and is widely available in Canada.

They should still be available. I got mine at Nissan when I first got my truck and was having the LSD and other fluids done. I can't remember how much they were, I would have to check my invoice. I like to leave it in Sport mode for the firmer ride and better cornering.

If you can find steel rims from a first generation Xterra their rims were 15x7 and perfect for mounting a 31. I gave a set away to SpecialWarr so he can confirm.

One of the best investments I made was replacing my fuel cap with a new one from Nissan. I had a bad experience with an aftermarket one...tanked up and drove off then the thing started to overflow when I had parked it.

If I had a 2 door like yours I'd look for the OEM Targa band light bar. You might even be able to get it brand new by looking around. Its part number 999F3W7000. https://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1988/Nissan/Pathfinder/SE/index.cfm?siteid=214081 With the targa bar you could put on a much larger LED bar. There are a quite a few members here that have them and I think they look amazing.

I've always used Rob's (member here) expert service and they are also in Texas. He doesn't come on here much so best to just give him a call and put in your order and tell him you are a member. They have the diagrams I think you are searching for. https://www.factorynissanparts.com/

Yeah, I'm quite sure it was for an ignition/engine kill switch and has been disconnected based on its location and where it leads. I disconnected mine when the security key started to act up and I got tired or reaching under my steering column and fiddling around to find that button to start my '95 Maxima.

Looks to me like an over ride button for an engine kill switch. I have a button like that on my '95 Maxima that came with an engine kill installed by the Nissan dealer. Basically, if you don't have the special key to disarm the engine kill you can press that button and it will over ride the system and let you start the truck without the key.

Here is a diagram with some of the lengths in millimetres. (L=mm)

If you want a manual...which I understand...its going be harder to find one. You might want to add Xterra(s) to your hunt to give you more options. If you are willing to travel a bit I have noticed there are more manual 2 door WD21's in Washington state for some reason. The red one...if you look at the driver's side rear window it is not tinted like it is supposed to be and was replaced with one from an XE. The other side has the original SE tinted window.

Since you are in California I would keep looking. You're in the land of milk and honey to find a well kept WD21. I remember a year ago there was a red '90 2 door for sale in San Diego for $1,400 that was in way better condition that someone had posted here. Both of those trucks seem to have some mystery behind them. The red 2 door was in some type of accident since the rear driver side window was replaced.

Just make sure you have an OEM Temp Sensor from Nissan. The after-market one's do not last long and the difference in price is minimal. Mine died a year after install and others have had the same experience as I did with Temp Sensors.

Unfortunately, I had those trucks before the age of digital photos. However, if you picture search on Google the Terrano WD21 you will see that they did have running boards from Nissan that integrated into the fender flares. Plenty of pics of that to give you an idea of that style. The tube one's you have install differently...they do attach to the frame with the brackets you have. There was someone here that had a write up of their install with pics.

To be clear...are you talking about a proper running board or the tubular nerf bars that became an option. I had running boards on an '88 and '90 that were from an after market manufacturer and were installed with brackets to the body and not the frame. The Nissan tubes do attach to the frame like 'xterra' mentioned.

I hear you. I guess you won't totally know until you see it for yourself. I hope it works out for you. I love the 2 door design. I found a '90 2 door 5 speed for $500 over the summer but it was quite far from me and the owner got cold feet when I told them I would need to have it shipped. I would bet he would take $300 to get rid of it in its current condition. It never hurts to ask. Good luck.

At least in my neck of the woods you can buy a low mileage '95 VG30 engine for $350 cdn. I'm sure you could probably negotiate that down a bit but that is what I see the JDM one's listed for online. Do a full heart transplant and be done with it is what I would do. Good work keeping a 2 door on the road...best of luck.

Jim Wolf Technology is the only one I know of. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com

Cool...glad that helped. Its a better diagram than the one in the FSM that you should also have as a reference for other work you will end up doing. I have to give credit to Akorhill aka Rob who was kind enough to share that document. FYI - There is No Vacuum diagram attached to the underside of the hood. Just the standard info specs about the engine.

Here it is with the length (L=mm) in millimetres. Just cut your hose to fit. There are some there where the length isn't listed because they were a part from Nissan and were formed with a bend. If those are rotted as well then just give yourself some more length on the line so it doesn't kink up.

He already has a set of 31(s) and trying to do things on a budget. Mags are very cheap second hand if you know how to look. Especially for a 15 inch since most people are running 16 inch now. Finding a 7 or 8 inch isn't difficult. Yeah I agree you will need wider to run 12.5 but that would also require a lot of beefing up of the truck's current condition and lots more investment.

If you want Steel rims...just go to the scrappers and find some Nissan Xterra Steel rims. All of their 15 inch were 7J which is all you need. Stick to 7 inches...these trucks already don't have a very good turning radius.

Like Adamzan stated he has them on the right way. They should be more snug in cups though, so there really should not be any debris accumulating in them. These parts are cheap and will wear quickly if the rest of the suspension is out of whack. If you had the cups inverted they would end up catching more dirt and worse you will wear out the bushing very quickly since the pressure put on them is not being dispersed properly.

According to the FSM - FA37 its 12-16 ft-lb. When you change that you might as well do the stabilizer bar bushings so everything can sit properly. Looking at the bits of your frame from the pics I would do a tap test all the way to the back of the truck. I think you are going to be finding a few surprises along the way.

I hate those TPS...had them on an '05 Xterra and drove me nuts...they are temperamental in cold environments and extremely prone to fail when salt (air/water) is added to the mix. I would not worry about it...check your tire pressure to make sure its good but its most likely the sensor just failing...also take off the cap and look for corrosion. Maybe a shot of some electronic sensor cleaner might do the trick. I don't know how far your drive with it on average but mine would eventually turn off after about 20-30 mins of driving.

I'm impressed you still have your cup that is attached to the frame.