Slartibartfast

Sounds like you've pretty much got it. I did about the same as you've done, just a small lift to level it out, along with a whole lot of front-end work. I don't trust the muppets at the local tire place to touch anything I own, and I'm not done messing with the front end anyway, so I did my own alignment. A proper tech with a proper rack could do a much better job, much more quickly, but I have neither of those things, so here we go. Caster's the tricky one to measure. Mine seemed alright when I started, so I just tried not to change it when I adjusted the camber (add/remove the same number of shims front/rear). I'll bet you could make a jig with legs going to the upper and lower ball joint bolts and a flat spot for an angle finder if you want to be sure. If you really screw up the caster, you might have stability issues (not enough caster) or a pull to one side (more caster on one side than the other). I set camber using a cheap digital angle finder and a piece of scrap metal across the face of the rim, though you could probably use the face of the hub if it's flat. Make sure you're parked on a level surface and the suspension has settled (you haven't jacked it up since you moved it). IIRC the spec for camber is a little positive. I too aimed closer to neutral. I found shims at Rockauto, but I don't think I actually used any of them. I think I actually removed shims to get it where I wanted it, which is odd, because lifting this front end should make negative camber. I suspect I shifted the LCAs in a little when I replaced the strut rod bushings, and had to compensate more for that than for the inch or so I cranked the bars. The nature of shims means it's only gonna get so close, which is fine, because you'll get tired of lifting the truck, loosening the UCA bolts, messing with the shims, doing them up again, setting it down, test-driving it to settle the suspension, re-checking it, rinse and repeat. (The manual has a "this many degrees means this many shims" chart, which could save you some time, if it makes more sense to you than it did to me.) Screwed-up camber results in uneven tire wear and unironically using the term "hellaflush." To set toe, I take two long-ish pieces of straight angle iron and set them against the front tire sidewalls, on jackstands, below the hub but above the bulge at the bottom of the tire. Make sure they're tight up against the sidewalls and not being thrown off by casting tits or crazy raised lettering or whatever. Measure the distance between them, right in front of the tires, with a tape measure, making sure the tape isn't sagging excessively or hitting on the skid plate or something like that (any deflection in the tape changes the measurement). Then move forward along the angle iron about the diameter of your tire and measure again. (You can try to measure behind the tire instead, and the math works out the same, but there's usually a truck in the way.) If the front measurement is longer, you have toe-out. If the front measurement is shorter, you have toe-in. I shoot for 1/8-1/16" toe in. Toe-out makes it dart and wander, and excessive toe in either direction eats tires. Write down your measurements and adjustments ("1/4 toe in, adjusted both sides out by one flat") as you go as a sanity check and remember to settle the suspension (drive back and forth) between adjusting and measuring. You can bias which adjuster you move to try and straighten the steering wheel as you go. If the toe is where you want it, but the wheel is cockeyed, lengthen one adjuster and shorten the other, check again, repeat until you're sick of it and decide it's close enough for what it is. TL;DR it's a pain in the ass and it takes a while to get it right, but it is entirely possible to do your own alignment.

Roll under the truck with the exhaust cold and inspect the clamps, whack various parts of it with your fist, see if anything rattles. That's how I found a loose exhaust clamp on mine that was only rattling under load. I assume the engine was rocking on its mounts just enough to unload that clamp. It's also how I found a bad cat on my friend's Blazer. The matrix inside had broken free of the walls and beat itself undersized, and it was rattling around. That was a much more expensive fix than mine. Big tires don't help acceleration. If you've got a manual trans, you have a 4.3 final drive, which you could upgrade to 4.6 with parts from an automatic to offset the tire size increase. The 33 also has less aggressive cams than the 30. You can download the service manual here.

I can see how the ATX14A's auto mode would be nice in some settings, like a wet road with ice patches, or handing the keys to someone who isn't experienced at driving in snow. The TX10A can be a little clunky sometimes. That said, the ATX14A uses two hydraulic pumps, a wet clutch pack, an actuator, and a computer to do what the TX10A does with mechanical shifter and a little thought on your behalf. Kinda like the automatic hubs on the WD21. It's a neat idea, and I get why some people like it, but IMO it's more trouble than it's worth. And yes, the ATX14A is not a true center diff. It contains a clutch pack, like what's in an automatic transmission, which the computer engages to send power to the front wheels when it thinks the rears are slipping. I think some AWD crossovers use a similar system, though typically the other way around (front wheel drive until the rear is needed). Clutch packs have a little drag when they're not engaged, I assume mostly due to the fluid being dragged around between them like My1Path said. An automatic transmission in neutral will still spin its output if there's nothing holding it (which is why you have to shift quickly between high and low range with a TX10A, or your auto trans will spin up its output while the transfer's in neutral and prevent you from completing the shift). It makes sense then that the clutched front output of the ATX14A would tend to spin when the rest of the drivetrain spins, even with the hubs and clutch disengaged. I doubt this is hurting anything, unless the clutch is less like an auto trans clutch than I think it is, or unless the computer does something dumb in response to what it thinks is a problem. I don't have confirmation on this, but my theory as to why some trucks code with the auto transfer and manual hubs and some don't is that some trucks get their front wheel speed info from the ABS sensors, and others get it from a sensor on the front transfer case output, depending on whether they've got VDC. If the transfer output is spinning slower than the wheels, or not at all, and that's what the computer is watching to see what the front wheels are doing, it stands to reason it would get a little confused. The only resource I've found for understanding what goes on in the ATX14A is the TF section of the service manual. The pictures don't move, but they're the best view you'll get short of disassembling one.

It's a flat-bottomed tank and the pickup doesn't come out of the bottom like on a lawnmower gas tank. It'll suck air before the tank is fully empty. I'm not sure much usable fuel capacity the R50 has, but I don't think I've put more than 17 gallons in the 21 gallon tank in my '93 (though to be fair I haven't run it completely empty). If you check the pump and don't find anything obviously amiss, you might be able to get a little more out of it by messing with the height of the pickup (measure the tank depth and compare to see if it could go lower), or make the gauge more accurate by bending the float arm a little.

Nice! Looking forward to seeing this in action. I'm curious how much Nissan left on the table when they tuned these things.

When I adjusted my steering box, I just barely moved the screw, and it got really stiff around center, to the point where it felt like it was trying to lock up. By the time I realized it wasn't just the Grassroots (I did both at once), the adjustment screw was jammed and wouldn't move, which told me that the box was done for. At that point, I bought the reman, which, well, it's not locked up, but that's all the good I can say for it. The idler arm shouldn't be tight enough to change the steering feel. Hopefully your box isn't overtightened, but it sounds like it is. This is the box I've been looking at. It's not listed for a WD21, but I'm curious whether it would fit given the similarity of the WD21 and the W/D22. The shaft in mine is tight (yes, I know, that's what she said), but when a friend and I checked over his S10, we found massive play in the joint in the column. We checked it by holding the shaft at the box with vise grips, then seeing if the wheel still had play in it. His did, mine didn't. I could however grab the end of my pitman arm (when it wasn't bolted to the center link) and wiggle it back and forth a surprising distance, producing a clacking noise inside the box. Sucks about the crash, hopefully the car is the only casualty.

I've got that same centerlink sitting in my "need to get around to installing this" pile. I wasn't impressed by the shark-bite construction either, but I haven't found any complaints about them separating. I do like the idea of running a weld around both ends to be on the safe side, though. Wrap a wet rag around the joints first so you don't burn holes in the boots. I've been down the same road trying to get rid of steering wander ("all over" the same road is more like it). While loose joints don't help, in my case it really came down to the slop in my steering box. I tried to adjust the original, destroyed it, and ended up with a crap BBB/VisionOE reman that's sloppier than what I started with and also leaks. Now and then I consider whether the later box sold by Redhead would fit, but then I look at the price and remember why I stopped considering that option. I've got a Grassroots link installed now, which has enough binding in its joints that the steering doesn't explore the play in the box, which does actually help. I've got a steering stabilizer/damper to install when I mount the 2WD link. Let us know how it goes!

I'd expect an ABS light and soft pedal, that started at the same time, to have the same cause. +1 for checking the line, they shouldn't have needed to mess with the caliper but who knows. Have someone hit the brakes and see if the line inflates. Good luck, I hate working on brakes.

My dad's '03 did what you're describing. Didn't throw a code but if you gave it more than a little throttle it lurched like it was trying to throw something off the roof rack. The guy he took it to said he'd seen it before and replaced the swirl control valve solenoid valve. Never had a problem with it again. I have no idea how it failed or how it caused the issue, though I remember dumping a couple chunks of what looked like salt out of one of the vac lines when we were trying to troubleshoot it.

If you've got a voltmeter, I would start by confirming the shop's diagnosis of low voltage at the ECM (might also be able to do this with a scan tool, which is what they probably did). If it is significantly less than battery voltage, you can check from the computer's negative to ground, and its positive to battery positive, and see where that power is getting lost.

If it is the brakes, and the ABS light is on, you need to get the code from the ABS system to see what it's unhappy about. Hopefully it can point you in the right direction.

In 4x, with the front wheels pulling, the wheels will toe in if the steering and suspension aren't strong enough to keep them straight. The steering linkage is probably flogged, it's a weak point on these, especially if you're running a lift. There are a few options for beefing it up.

Lurches like the brakes are releasing, or lurches like the engine's pulling? +1 on a damaged ABS sensor or wiring, seems like that could be making the ABS do something stupid if the wheel speed signal is cutting out.

MREs are bad enough when they're good! I ate one while camping with friends several years ago and it spent most of the night violently reorganizing my insides. I like to keep granola bars in the glovebox. When I remember to put them there, I end up eating them soon after, so they don't have enough time to go bad.

The PN is on the outer face of the rim, and you can find it without taking the rim or even the hubcap off. Find the valve stem, then follow that circle around (broken into three sections by the spokes). One section has the valve stem, one has the rim size marked, the other has the PN. Is the picture what you have now? Looks like an early R50 alloy.

Seems like you could bend up a sheet metal (or sheet plastic) C-channel clip sorta deal that the bank would slot into. Anything specially fitted kinda locks you into that make/model of bank, but I guess it wouldn't be that hard to swap the clip out if you needed to later. M10x1.5 is the only size I have that screwed into the sunroof, but I don't have/didn't check an M10x1.75. Tough to judge the thread pitch on the screws when there are only two threads exposed.

The only variation I'm aware of with Lego rims is that the super early ones take mag-style lug nuts with washers, and the rest take the standard acorn lugs. There's a part # cast into the rim that'll tell you which one you have. 4030032G00 are the early mag-style, 4030032G10 are the acorns.

They're M10x1.5.

My '93 just has a reed switch over the speedo magnet. I was surprised to see how low-tech it was.

Looks pretty good for a prototype! Having it up there is definitely better than having it on the dash. Sucks about the power output, though. I'll check the screws on mine, I want to say they're M11 x something but it's been a while since I checked.

Mine came with 31s, and when I ran 235s (snow tires), the speedo read close to 70 when I was going 60. But yeah, I'd check it against GPS to see if it's worth digging into.

+1 on someone likely swapping out the speedo. The odometer is part of the speedo, so unless the PO went to great pains to make it match the (presumably) dead gauge they took out, it's probably not correct. I haven't had an orange dash apart, but I assume the tint is a layer of orange paint or plastic between the bulbs and the gauge. It might be difficult to match, but yeah, if you can find orange condoms for the bulbs (or orange LEDs), that might get it close enough.

I have considered putting a panel under the sunroof glass for running fans when the truck's parked in the sun. (I tried a similar arrangement with a computer fan in my '95, taking battery power from the dome light, but I could never convince myself that it was doing any good.) Trouble is, the glass is painted on the inside--not completely but enough to cut down on the sunlight reaching the panels. Also, when you're not camping, how often are you going to use that battery bank? Seems like "the ceiling, right next to your head" is about the least convenient possible location for a USB charger, especially when you've already got a 12v socket in the dash. What would the difference be between your base model and the solar model? Mounting holes for the kit? I reckon the way to go here would be to make a basic shade kit with just a blank cutout and the mounting hardware (the quarter-turn or screw-in fasteners), and sell it cheap enough that people aren't afraid to mod it. If someone wants to mount solar panels, or fans, or a bunch of racecar switches, or a Molle rack for maps and granola bars, they can do that using your basic kit as a starting point, and you don't have to do the R&D. If you see a bunch of people doing the same mod, offer a deluxe version with pre-drilled holes. OE shades are expensive, so I'll bet there's a market for a cheaper alternative. The challenge will be finding the right price point. While I appreciate the effort that'll go into cutting the pieces out, bending them, and sourcing the fasteners, I also remember making a perfectly viable sunshade for my '95 from a cardboard box and baling wire.

I suspect that's a generic warning, intended for newer rigs with chipped keys/immobilizers. I don't think Nissan started with the chipped keys until '00 or '01 (but don't quote me on that). Looks like the ignition switch (just the electrical component) is available pretty cheap and attaches with two screws. I replaced just the electrical part of the ignition switch in my '93 and it was a very easy job. Replacing the whole lock assembly would've required drilling out the screws that hold it in (the heads shear off when the part is installed so you can't just unbolt the cylinder to disable the steering lock).

Sounds like you've got the automatic climate control and you've found what Nissan calls the Aspirator Motor. The aspirator pulls air through the grille in the faceplate and past a temp sensor, giving the climate control the best possible idea of what the cabin temperature is so it can adjust the blend door(s) accordingly. The blower runs whenever the key is on. I wasn't sure what I was hearing at first either! Mine didn't have wires rubbing but I could hear the little motor going. It comes on with the ignition. HA-62 and -63 of the '90 service manual show the parts and locations. HA-136 says to test that the aspirator is working by holding a lit cigarette in front of the faceplate and watching the smoke get sucked in. (I find it amusing that Nissan's official testing method is to light a cigarette in a customer's car.)