Slartibartfast

^ And top up the fluid periodically while you're doing that, or you'll suck air into the master cylinder and get to do it all over again.

I leave my rig in power mode all the time and it never beeps. Then again, that could be related to the fact that I tore out my beeper module.

I dunno, might be more motivation to get the VG33 rebuilt! The crank pulley might be a PITA though, I know there's an adapter for putting the VG30E crank pulley on a VG33E, but I don't know if anyone's done the opposite.

If you can get ahold of a smoke machine, and hook it up to your intake, you might be able to find the leak more easily. The shop I worked at for a while had one that took shop air and baby oil and put out a really dense smoke. It was great for finding bad injector O-rings, vacuum lines, that sort of thing, so I imagine it might help you with the brake booster too. I made myself a ghetto smoke machine the other day out of a 12v tire pump and a Mason jar with a cigarette in it. I haven't tested it on a car yet but it does blow gobs of smoke for a minute or so until it uses up the cigarette. It does smell a lot worse than the shop machine...

Sounds like there's a leak somewhere. The reason it's got no pressure now is that there's air in the line or in the master cylinder piston. Brake fluid isn't compressible, air is, so you push the pedal down and the air compresses instead of pushing the clutch out. You have to bleed the air out of the system to get it to work again. Instructions should be in the service manual, MT section. The old fluid must've gone somewhere, so try and track down where it went. It might help to have someone else to watch the cylinder and whatnot as you try to bleed air out/fluid in. That's how I found the leak in my brake system; it was oozing out the side of the master cylinder, but only when I had my foot on the brakes, so one person wouldn't have found it. IIRC there should be a little hole in the bell housing meant to let condensation and whatever out from around the clutch, so you might take a look at that as well and see if there's clutch fluid around there (indicating that the slave cylinder's leaking).

I'll go out on a limb here and say that if the fuel line was disconnected, the smell and the puddle of fuel might tip you off pretty quickly. Run the ECU codes on the off chance there's anything there. Make sure the ignition rotor is spinning when you try to crank (rules out a timing belt break, which is unlikely if it sounds normal as it cranks) and test for spark. The delay before it quit does sound like a fuel issue, but when I've pulled the fuel pump fuse on mine, it died way too fast to drive it anywhere. My motor's got a different injection system than yours, but I can't imagine the pressure being too different. My best guess is that the motor rocked on its mounts (or off them, depending on the condition of your motor mounts) when you bounced off the rock and yanked some part of the wiring wrong. Check your fuses and fusible links--could be that wiring got mushed somewhere, shorted, and took the time it took you to drive that 100 feet to melt the fuse link.

I am entirely alright with that so long as you post pictures.

IIRC the little heat shield had to come off of mine to get it past those lines. There's a fairly common issue with these where the contacts in the ignition column get worn out and can't pass enough amps to the solenoid. Some people have relayed that circuit (the relay that's there only breaks the circuit so you can't start in gear) so the solenoid gets full power.

I did my O2 recently. I didn't heat the pipe, and I had a hell of a time. The sensor came out in two pieces. Heat the pipe!

The timing marks on the crank pulley are just for reference. The distributor's geared off one of the camshafts, so if you did the belt job right (sounds like you did) and you haven't moved the distributor, your ignition timing should be exactly the same as it was before. If the pulley is clocked wrong, you'll have a tougher time setting the timing if you ever need to, but I'm pretty sure that's all the damage it would do. I actually ordered a timing light the other day to tune the Scout, and I'll probably try it on the Pathy as well, just in case somebody tinkered with it and set it wrong. I'm always hoping to find a little free power hidden in there.

Interesting, my WD usually whooshes a bit when I open the cap, but IIRC other rigs I've gassed up acted the same.

Hmm. Seems like a warm start issue, but after six hours, I imagine it's mostly cooled, even in Florida. Wouldn't hurt to clean the MAF and check the vacuum lines, but past that, my knowledge of the TBI is pretty limited. This might help though:

Okay, so, the fuel is making it to the engine bay, but not into the engine. This suggests your injectors aren't injecting. The way I've heard to test injectors by their clicks is with your ear up to a long screwdriver on the injector with the engine running. That sounds like a PITA with a motor that only runs on ether. I would also be surprised if you had six bad injectors, so I'm guessing the problem is with the wiring. You can check the wiring by unplugging the connector on an injector you can get to and testing it with a meter while someone cranks it. I suspect you'll find no signal. All six injectors have two wires, one which is their individual wire from the ECU and common that they all tie into (which also seems to go to the ECU). The six individual wires go to an eight-wire plug (shared with the ignition system, so I doubt the problem is with this one). Looks like the common wires are white and red coming out of the injector plugs, but black and white after they join in the harness. This ground goes through a six-wire plug and into the main harness, near as I can tell from the diagrams in the service manual (EF&EC 8 and 9). I would try to find that six-wire plug with the injector ground, see if the plug is clipped together properly and clean inside, and test what should be a black and white wire with a meter against battery + and -. I suspect it's a ground, so you should see voltage to + with the engine on/cranking, but I could be wrong on that. Hopefully the issue's in or near that plug (or at least in the injector harness) and not in the main harness between there and the ECU. You can download the shop manual here: FSM. Download it, it comes in handy. There's probably a troubleshooting bit for your issue or at least a better explanation of the injector circuitry, I just went straight for the diagrams.

My mom's been really happy with her Honda CRV (2007). I don't like it much, but it hasn't caused much trouble, apart from going through rear tires a little quicker than you'd expect. I'm not sure about the motor except that it says VTEC on it and it's adequate for the vehicle's weight. I don't know what an '07 goes for these days, but I know other family members have had older CRVs and been pretty happy with them, too. I've read that the newer ones have the occasional electric throttle glitch that opens the throttle when you're sitting at a light, but I didn't look into it further than that.

I'm sure they're out there somewhere, but I don't know where. I found a manual for the TD series engines a while back, but it was just the engine sections, so it didn't cover transmissions or any of that.

^ That makes a lot of sense. You might try heating the needle before bending it to see if it'll go without snapping. Or find something amusing to use as a needle. Miniature lightsaber?

The O2 has a long harness going up into the engine bay, and the plug is in the cluster of plugs between the fuel filter and the little fuse/relay box on the firewall. Two white wires and a black wire. Mine was at the top of the plug cluster, but it was also zip-tied on, so I'm not sure that was its original position. I would check for vac leaks again in case you missed one. I remember one guy had a no power issue when he got on it in low range that turned out to be a rip in the intake tube. It only opened up enough to leak when the engine rocked under load.

Yep, a bad valve is usually a consistent misfire. I have heard of valve guides coming loose on some Subaru engines and causing the valve to not seat properly, then sort itself out, then not seat right again (and I've seen one stuck wide open, zero compression) but I've never heard of a Nissan motor doing that. Sticking injector on #2 makes sense. You might try a fuel system cleaning before taking it out, on the off chance that fixes it, given how buried things are on the VQ. A backwards fuel filter probably didn't hurt anything, it's not like they have anti-drainback valves. The ones I've looked at blew through just as easily from either side. All I can figure is that the filter elements are designed stronger in the direction fuel is supposed to flow. Also, what's the distinction between drive-by-wire and electric throttle body? Both of them have the computer controlling the TB, right?

Host elsewhere (I use Photobucket, other sites work just as well), copy the direct image link, click the thing above the reply box that looks like a Polaroid of a tree (between the hyperlink buttons and the < >), paste it in, and it'll show up.

I'm still not seeing why another relay is needed.

Since your headlights are relayed, I think you could do this much more simply. Just find the constant + wire in the headlight switch harness, trace it back as far as you can, snip it, and then re-wire it to the ignition switch or to the ignition-switched part of the fuse box. Ignition on, the switch is live, the relays engage when you turn the switch on, the lights work. Ignition off, there's no signal to the relays, the lights go out. And for the windows... just do the exact opposite, I guess, find the feed and move it from switched + to unswitched +. It wouldn't be a bad idea to test the system and make sure the window circuit doesn't draw power when they aren't doing anything before you hook it up and leave it overnight. Hell, if the wires are close to each other, you could probably just cut the power feeds for the windows and the headlights, solder one to the other and vise versa, and call it a day. (Make sure the window circuit still has a fuse when you're done, just to be safe.)

Good to hear it wasn't a valve!

I brought a sample of what I was looking for to the auto parts place, handed it to the guy behind the counter, and he hooked me up with the right stuff. It fit up like stock and looks original except that it's not all cracked and knackered. Installation was pretty easy, especially after I removed the air intake tube (the accordion looking bit). Don't forget the line to the fuel pressure regulator, behind the intake. I've heard of those coming unhooked and causing problems. There's also a sticker on the underside of the hood detailing which lines go where, in case you unhook two at once and forget where they go! While you're in there, you might try cleaning the throttle body as well. I didn't notice how dirty mine was until I was in there to do the lines. I removed it, cleaned the black muck out of it, and also cleaned out the EGR connection to the intake because it was just about clogged solid and I was in there anyway (and I wonder why small jobs take me so long!). I didn't have new gaskets so I just took things apart carefully, sprayed some permatex copper stuff on the old ones, and put it all back together again. I wasn't having issues particularly when I started the job, but between the lines and the cleaning, the truck seemed to get a lot of power back.

Definitely sounds like something in the top end isn't happy.

Interesting. What happens if it loses communication with the key while it's running?