Slartibartfast

Hopefully the bearings aren't wiped out from running with no oil pressure.

Mine's got the same thing, I think it's just an interference shield meant to keep the MAF signal from being influenced by the ignition etc. Mentioned in B's link above.

If there's a big enough problem in the injector circuit to throw a code, start there. I seem to remember looking up that harness a while back and finding a plug that each injector's wires ran through, which could allow you to test under the intake without removing it. I don't think I looked up where that plug was, unfortunately. Also, for the manuals. The EF&EC section is your friend for troubleshooting, but the EL section will help you figure out where the wiring goes. Checking individual plugs is a good idea. I'm not sure the resistance test alone will find an injector that's gummed open.

Ah, you pulled the whole thing out. Nevermind then, you're on the right track looking for TDC.

I went with the MileMarkers on my rig a year or so ago. I haven't thrashed them over logs and boulders but they've been great in the snow. My only complaint is that the chrome is peeling a bit off the rings around the dials.

If you just pulled the cap and rotor, you shouldn't need to find TDC, the rotor only goes on one way.

Hmm. Sounds like the diff is fine, it just has a little more resistance on the passenger's side bearing or seal than the driver's for some reason. It's an open diff, so if one side's got more resistance than the other, it'll spin the easier side twice as fast while the tough side sits still. I'll bet your driver's side flange is going twice as fast as it should be to compensate for the passenger's flange not moving. I'm not sure what would make one side bind up, or if a little extra resistance is normal and nothing to worry about. Either way, it's not why your 4x4 doesn't work. If the driver's side CV is turning, it should be locking up the driver's side hub. Once that's locked, the passenger's side hub will have to spin as well, and should lock up in turn. The fact that the passenger's CV isn't turning at all says that the driver's hub isn't locking. Did you check clutch thickness when you had the hubs apart? Mine looked minty fresh when I pulled one apart, cleaned, and greased, but the clutches measured way under spec and it actually performed worse after a clean & grease. I can't remember ever reading about someone blowing up an R200A (front diff) in a Pathfinder, but I've read about a lot of failed auto hubs.

I like the rack, mounting points could use some revision though. I hope the one with the custom bumper's suspended by something besides the factory nerf bars.

Yep, looks like the fuel pressure regulator vac line. You'll probably have to feel around until you find the nipple on the regulator.

Good to hear it's going well! Make sure you treat that rust before you cover it up or it'll be back.

First off, what's the oil look like? Tranny fluid, brake fluid, motor oil? Could help to track down what's leaking into it and where, especially if the harness parallels the hard lines for the brakes or the transmission cooler. Your best resource for tracing the wiring (among other things) is here: Download your year, then have a look at the EL section, there should be a routing diagram that'll let you trace the wiring into the engine bay, if that is where the leak is. My dad had an '03 and IIRC it was awful tight in that engine bay, so I hope your issue isn't buried too far in there!

There's a vac line back there that goes from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator. IIRC the drain for the air conditioner's back there too. A picture of what you're looking at would definitely narrow it down!

Mine is auto, and it's true, the tranny computer isn't the brightest. I think it was programmed with a lighter vehicle or a bigger motor in mind. I just turn the overdrive off unless I'm cruising on level ground, and that usually does what I need it to. I haven't done enough manual trans driving to say much about it, but I do like that I can start off on a hill without screwing around with the e-brake or trying to put my foot sideways like I do in the Scout.

I imagine it would be hard to tie a bike down to a 2" surface tight enough to stop it from pitching forward and backward (relative to the bike). Making some kind of support beam/clamp parallel with the bike (removable to get the tire off) might make for a much more stable mount. Maybe have a T-shaped section that slides into the 2" tube like a trailer hitch, or a piece of pipe that slides through the sides of the 2" tube and locks down with a bolt or a cotter pin? Easy enough to remove the cross piece if you need to get at the tire. Of course, there's a very real chance that I'm overthinking this. The funny thing is that I keep looking at a hacked-up bike frame a friend gave me and thinking that if I put lug studs where the crank used to be, and welded mounting plates where the handlebars and front fork used to be, it would make a half-decent tire carrier for the Scout.

Swapped out the leaky washer pump and put the summer wheels back on. Nice to be able to trust the speedo again. I discovered by following a friend's rig that my snow tires make 60 read as 70 on my speedo. I expected a change with the smaller tires, but that much change surprised me.

Interesting idea. Also looks like it's been done. Scroll down a bit, there's a setup fitted to a D22. I'll bet the extra leverage is hell on the ball joints and suspension bushings. I guess it depends on how far up you go.

I get the occasional harsh shift from first into second too--my understanding is that they just sort of do that. Smooth sometimes, harsh others, usually at lower revs in my case.

Round two! That buzzing is weird, especially with the lights shutting it down. I can't think of anything on that circuit that should buzz. All I can think of is that turning the lights on is reducing power to something else, or something else has been wired to the light feeds for some reason. My dad had a beat Chevy pickup for a while that had the headlights and the radio wired together for some reason. All I can think of that should be able to buzz in the dash are the blower motor and the power antenna (if equipped). I'm still at a loss for how either of those would tie into the lights, but you might try unhooking them and seeing if it still makes the noise. If that's not it, start pulling fuses until the noise stops. IIRC the square-dash rigs had cruise control on the headlight stalk, maybe something's knackered in there and the cruise is trying something? At the shop I worked at for a while, we always checked swaybar endlinks for clunk noises. If you've got a tire carrier (can't tell from your sig pic), it could be the bushings on that wearing out. Mine rattles like mad if I slam it shut, and sometimes it gets going on bumps, more of a rattle than a knock though. I would also make sure the tire change jack isn't loose in its little cubby. Might help to have a friend drive it while you're sitting in the back, get a better idea of where it's coming from if nothing else.

WD21: We took a pickup truck and made the roof longer. R50: We call them SUVs now. R51: Come look at the Armada, leave with this instead! We make big trucks now. R52: So our head designer drove his sister-in-law's Subaru Outback and really liked it...

Replaced my EGR valve, finally. The old one wasn't broken, but the threaded bung was stripped. This made putting the new/used one on fun, as some of the threads were still embedded in the flare nut bit that screwed on, and were pretty well fused in. I ended up cutting the flare nut about 1/4" shorter with the angle grinder because I was out of good ideas. It worked!

Mine had a 21 gallon tank judging by the amounts of gas I put in it, and I verified the new tank at close to 21 gallons (slightly more IIRC) before I put it in. The fuel pump can't completely empty the tank, so you'll never put 21 gallons in there at once. The most I've ever put in mine at once was 18 gallons.

There's a service bulletin on overfilling the manual transmissions, IIRC a couple of bearings don't get the lube they need with the factory fill level. I don't remember which ones, but the thread on the TSB likely has the information. Sounds like it's too late to save yours by overfilling, but you might get a little more life out of it that way. They're picky about oil type, too, so make sure you get the right stuff.

Any ECU codes? A lot of door lock issues come down to the timer in the driver's rear quarter panel (behind the plastic trim in the cargo area). The solder joints crack and the locks act funny or don't work at all. You can find all the wiring diagrams and whatnot here, along with some troubleshooting procedures. The oldest manual there is '94 IIRC, so its cruise control will differ a bit in that the late 93-95 have the cruise buttons on the steering wheel and IIRC the earlier rigs like yours have it on one of the sticks, but I assume the system is the same otherwise.

I remember swapping one of mine out a while back. It's definitely a job you do by braille. IIRC removing the cargo area interior panels made it a bit easier.

My brake leak ended up being the MC. There was a small hole drilled through the side, I assume to make a passage inside, and the best way they could come up with to seal the entry hole was to hammer a little ball bearing into it. I suspect the bugger had corroded between the steel and the aluminum and given the fluid a way out. (The new MC didn't have a hole there, so apparently they found a better way to machine that passage.) I recently talked with a machinist who said he was working on a newer engine (Ford IIRC) where the oil passages were sealed off with driven-in bearing balls. He said the only way to get the balls out was to grind a flat spot on the ball to get past the case hardening, drill a hole, tap it, and then hook up a slide hammer. He had a lot of them to do on that motor and he was less than happy about it!