Slartibartfast

Ah, that makes sense. How's the performance with the cooler running? And yeah, I owe a lot to that rat LOL. Wish he'd found somewhere else to die, though...

I only vaguely understand what you did but it looks like a clean install. I like the shotgun shell, reminds me of the pressure switch I built for my glovebox a while ago.

As far as weak links, there is an issue where the seam or seal or whatever between the transmission cooler and the radiator lets go and creates a Strawberry Milkshake of Death. Pretty easy to prevent by bypassing the factory cooler and adding an aftermarket one. IIRC some of the early 4.0 engines had timing chain guide issues. I've also heard of issues with the traction control limiting what you can do off-road, but I guess you get that in any newer vehicle. There aren't an awful lot of R51 guys on here, hopefully one of them can chime in with more/better info.

Sounds like the contacts inside that are supposed to open when the wiper goes "home" aren't doing their job. I would probably take the motor apart and look for any obvious problems inside. Could be something simple.

Sounds like that narrows it down to the speed switch, but yeah, no harm in checking the motor first.

Looks like fun! Surprising the computer didn't get swamped. Also surprising to see a purple Pathfinder, that's a new one on me. Pulls it off quite well IMO.

I'll bet an old/cheap 1/2" drive socket with a slot ground through it and a steel bar welded through the slot would do the job. That said, having the right tool that you wouldn't have to screw around with and risk damaging the adjuster with might be worth the $46.

You can also check the battery cables if it does it again. Sometimes they get loose or corroded (bluish white crusty stuff) around the terminal and won't conduct well enough to run the starter. The dash lights may still work but will go out when you turn the key to start.

The flashing lights aren't too bad once you get to know them. Give it another go, I suspect most shops would have the same learning curve you do unless they service a lot of pre-OBDII Nissans. It doesn't always tell you what's up but it can help. You want mode 3. It won't tell you where to start, it'll just list off the things that are out of range. (If there's a knock code, fix the other things first and see if it goes away on its own.) The service manual has troubleshooting procedures for a variety of issues, and can probably tell you more/better than I can. Start with the EF&EC section.

I'm not sure the hose is responsible for your exact issue but the double whammy of a vacuum leak and the pressure regulator thinking the throttle's wide open all the time probably isn't helping anything. The hose is a bit of a bugger to get to (a job to do by braille!) but once you've found both fittings with your fingertips it should be pretty easy to shove a new line in there. IIRC it took me longer to get my old one to come loose than it did to fit the new one.

Kind of sounds like the strut rod? Can you get a picture?

Higher revs should = more noise from an exhaust leak, yes. A friend of mine put an exhaust gasket backwards on his Chevy and he said the noise varied quite a bit by how much he was or wasn't on the gas. It was noticeable at idle, but it wasn't exactly a small leak. You might try hooking a shop vac or something to the tail pipe (motor off/cold) and then crawling underneath to see if you can hear or feel air rushing in somewhere. The only common exhaust issues I'm aware of are the exhaust studs and the joint under the driver's floor. How much of your exhaust system is new? And GV280Z, my '95 used to do that. I tried to break the spot welds holding the heat shields but they weren't ready to let go, and I couldn't get a tool in there, so I just wrapped baling wire around them and twisted it until it held them securely. I've also heard of people using hose clamps, which is a little less Red Green.

Sounds like you're dragging chains behind you? Like a rattling/clanking/Jacob Marley sort of deal? Check to see if everything's tightened down right, and maybe give the muffler a good whack to see if it's got a loose baffle or if someone put a bolt in as a joke. Can you get a video of the noise?

The AT section of the FSM has you covered:

The A/T oil temp light should come on with the other dash lights when you turn the key to "run" without starting the engine. The sensor itself looks like it's in the valve body inside the trans, so a bit of an undertaking to get to. From what I've read, relying on the light to tell if the trans is too hot is kind of like using a smoke detector to tell when dinner's ready.

Looks like Redpath pretty well covered it. One bit to throw in about #4, though. I've had the 4x light on my '95 stay on with the lever in 2H, and it turned out that the transfer case had stuck in 4H, and stayed there for a while before disengaging. My understanding is that the shifter pushes the engagement sleeve bit into 4H and a spring makes it pop back into 2H when you shift out, probably so that it won't disengage under load and damage something, and the mechanism can hang up sometimes. I changed the fluid in my transfer case and haven't had a problem with it since.

Here's the law in question: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Millennium_Copyright_Act Just reading it is pissing me off.

The NPORA FB group seems to work for me, but then I'm logged into FB already. I use Photobucket, it's kind of a pain but it's what I've used in the past and I don't care enough to learn something else LOL. Upload, get the direct link (not the IMG), click the picture of the tree over the bit you type text into, paste the link, and there you go.

It's not about safety, and never was, it's just an attempt to make more money by abusing copyright law.

There's a procedure for checking trans codes in the FSM, you basically match the flashes of the light in the "power mode" switch to the tables in the book and figure out what it thinks is wrong. It's not the same as the engine computer.

I'm assuming you have the same VG30E multi-port injected V6 that we have here. You can download a factory service manual here for troubleshooting procedures and instructions for reading the computer codes. There's also a forum writeup on reading the codes, either will work. These ECUs often don't have the vaguest idea what's up but it's a good place to start. Cutting out at higher RPM does sound fuel related, but I wouldn't suspect the pump right off. Have you replaced the fuel filter? They're cheap and easy to get at. Also have a look at the vacuum lines if you haven't yet, particularly the one going to the fuel pressure regulator (between the intake and the firewall). The fact that it runs fine until it warms up sounds more like a sensor problem than a fuel delivery problem, though. I've read about the angle sensor in the distributor failing in such a way that it only craps out as it warms up. I would also check the coolant temperature sensor, the mass air flow sensor wiring, and maybe run the computer diagnostic for the oxygen sensor (no special tools required, details in the manual).

4BT swap!

Best to make a new thread for this, it won't get a lot of views here and isn't relevant to the original topic. (Doesn't sound like a fuel pump to me, maybe filter, but I would lean more towards something like the temperature sensor. Make a new thread and you'll get more views/better advice. Also specify which engine you're working with, given that it's an overseas model it might have a different plant than we're familiar with.)

A Pathfinder and thirty acres to explore... sounds like fun.

One nice thing about white or black, touchups are easy. I bought a black paint pen to touch up my '93 where the PO slammed the door on the seatbelt a bazillion times and it looks fairly good IMO. I've entertained the occasional thought of a two-tone, white above the body line and maybe a light blue below. I do like the zebra print. A family friend had a VW bus like that when I was a kid. One day he went to jack it up to change a tire or something and the jack punched right through the floor. That 90's bowling alley paintjob is something else, though.