Slartibartfast

Hmm. Do you have a multimeter? Either your new injectors are both DOA or there's a problem with the wiring. Here's a partial wiring diagram of the injectors from EF&EC-120 of the '89 service manual. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/hardbody/d21_truck_1989.pdf It looks like both injectors share a white wire with a red stripe, which goes to the computer and to battery +. If that wire broke while you were swapping injectors, it would take both injectors offline. I am a little puzzled by the safety relay, but near as I can tell, it's designed to disconnect the injector circuit from battery + if the alternator overcharges the battery, probably to protect the ECU and the injectors. (The diode on the coil is reverse-biased, so current can't flow through the coil and open the contacts until the battery voltage hits the diode's breakdown voltage and overwhelms it.) This isn't spelled out in the manual anywhere I've found, and I'm not an electrical engineer, so I could be wrong on this. Anyway, I would expect to see battery voltage between ground and the white/red stripe wire in the injector harness. If it's not there, I'd check the fuse links and try to track down that safety relay to make sure it hasn't burned out or something. If it doesn't show up in the "location of electrical units" pages, the plug number should correspond to the wiring harness diagrams in the EL section. If the white/red stripe wire is powered up, then the problem is probably in one of the other two injector wires (the solid black and black/blue stripe, and yes, blue is "L" on Nissan diagrams for some reason). You can also test the injectors with an ohmmeter to make sure they're alright. The EF&EC section of the FSM has a series of troubleshooting checks which are probably better than mine. I haven't read through it all, but I haven't seen it recommend grenades yet, which is promising.

A little positive camber is supposed to reduce steering effort (not sure how). A couple degrees + is standard for Triumphs, and farm tractors apparently use a lot of it. The FSM says to adjust somewhere between -0°10' and 1°10', and I'm not entirely sure how that notation is meant to be read, but I'm guessing it means to err slightly positive. I dunno why a rig with power steering would need positive camber, but apparently Nissan thought they did.

Just remembered, I read once that the disk brake axle shafts won't fit a 3rd member with drum brakes, so unless you're swapping the whole axle, make sure you get a 3rd from the same axle as what you have.

They're cool looking. I don't know the strengths/weaknesses well enough to compare, but I know they're used in H1s, and those seem to do pretty well.

I really haven't heard of a lot of issues with these, apart from normal wear (clutches not grabbing like they should) and the occasional bound-up rear end that goes back to normal with some additive. I think one guy here managed to blow one up by dumping his clutch at redline in low range. A low-miles unit is always a better bet, but I imagine you'd have to try hard to find a bad one. Looks like this site sells new old stock 4.3 rear ends.

You might have trouble finding metal in that frame that's thick enough to weld to. The hard lines don't look good, either.

Looks like they're VLSD, so probably not much of an upgrade. I see there's a couple of Torsen R200 variants out there... interesting.

That's green!

Yikes! Patch looks good, though.

Does sound like the LSD is going out. An oil change might buy more time, but given how short a time your previous one lasted (I'm assuming you didn't do water crossings or anything that would've gotten water in the carrier), I doubt it would work for long. I've seen pictures from a rebuild where the metal bits between the clutches (or was it the spring bit?) were all busted up, but I don't remember if they were having noise issues or just rebuilding to make it grab properly again. I've never had an LSD (or any axle, for that matter) to bits, but it looks to me like the truck would still be drivable even if the clutch assemblies completely disintegrated. If they lock up, then it would act like a welded diff (and some people do drive around with welded diffs), but the ring and pinion should still work how they're supposed to and keep the truck moving. My only concern, and I'm not sure if it's reasonable or even possible, is that bits of the damaged clutches etc could escape the carrier and chew up the bearings or jam the ring and pinion. I've never heard of this being a problem, but never having worked on one, I'm hesitant to say that everything would be fine. Anyone who knows the LSD carrier better than I do want to chime in here? You could probably just swap out the third member (holds the diff and the R&P) rather than the whole axle, which could save you or your mechanic the trouble of dropping the whole axle out and dealing with the suspension. Check if anyone's parting one out it your area, you might get a better deal than you would at a wrecking yard. Also check your gear ratio before buying; under the hood, passenger's rear of the firewall, there's a data plate that'll have HG43 or HG46 stamped on it. Make sure your donor matches. Good luck, and hopefully this helps a bit.

The Pathfinder changed in '96, but the Hardbody kept the same bodystyle until '97. Not sure if the brakes are the same, but I don't see why they wouldn't be.

I would start with the battery connections. If they're corroded/loose, pop them off, clean the posts and clamps, put them back together with some dielectric grease (or whatever grease is handy) and see if that doesn't do the trick. I've seen a car where everything seemed to work but the lights went out if you tried to start it (and no sound from the starter), and the positive terminal was so loose it wiggled and sparked when I messed with it. Started right up with the clamp re-tightened.

An ignition miss or clogged up injector is the only thing I can think of that would make it do that, unless your fuel filter's so plugged that the pump can't keep up with demand. Any transmission codes?

Make sure you do the vac lines too if you haven't already. Those plus cleaning out the throttle body and EGR port (did them at the same time) woke mine up quite a bit.

Just keep it away from your hootus.

Isn't this the kind of thing a subframe drop is meant to get around?

I got some universal panels off Fleabay a while back. They come with different plug ends so you can more or less hook them up in place of various styles of bulb and foam tape on the back. I tried the big white panel (48 LEDs IIRC) in the dome light first, and it was like getting stabbed in the eyes when I opened the door at night, so I switched it out for a smaller panel in the "warm white" shade. I might go for the direct plug-ins next time rather than messing around with foam tape.

A five-speed is a manual trans, so there's no computer stuff to worry about. I'm not sure what your worry is about towing with a three-speed. The four-speed just adds an overdrive for cruising (lower revs/better fuel economy at speed on flat roads). It's got a switch to lock out the overdrive, which IIRC the manual suggests using when you're towing something (making it a three-speed anyway). I use mine whenever a hill is involved, because my trans control unit thinks my VG30E can maintain 60 up a grade in overdrive, and my trans control unit is wrong. If you want to protect your trans, you can put in an aftermarket transmission oil cooler to keep it cool, a filter to keep it clean, and maybe a gauge so you know if you're pushing it too hard. There are multiple threads/how-tos for that stuff.

Usually better to start your own thread. Check the plugs for the mass air flow meter, throttle position sensor, and coolant temperature sensor. I've had an on again/off again issue with the engine dying at stop signs, and messing with those three always brings it back. One of these times I'll just mess with one of them at a time and see which one's doing it.

The only advantage to the four-speed AFAIK is that the fourth speed is overdrive, and if you can tow in overdrive, your motor's putting down a lot more power than mine! I imagine the four-speed would bolt up, but you'd need the trans control unit from a later Pathy and possibly the shifter as well (to give you the overdrive on/off switch). Must be somebody who's done it.

Torsion bar adjuster slipped?

First I've heard of a camshaft snapping! That sucks. I doubt a compression test will tell you much without a camshaft. Maybe one of the guys who's done the VG33 swap with VG30 cams has a crap VG33 cam they'd sell you cheap for testing purposes.

For the fog lights? By the passenger's side hood hinge on mine. Beats me how it would be draining the battery but show no load, unless the meter fuse is blown or something. Try opening a door so the dome light comes on and test again, make sure there's something then. Start the meter on a higher range and work down, if you start at mA and you have a big drain you could easily pop the little fuse in the tester.

I don't think a disconnected coolant temp sensor would prevent the starter from kicking.