Desert89

For those shopping for ready made kits Don't but the Transdapt kit. I got mine from 4x4parts.com,SKU: PPOK11134337. It is made of cast pot metal and has no QC on the finish. O-ring groove was not machined I had to clean up the female threads to esure I wouln't have flakes of metal in my oil system. Definately not the quality I would expect for the price.

It depends on how much weight you think is going to go up there. I had a good 200 pound on mine only supported by the cross bars and it held up fine for a 100 mile trip.

This is a slightly old thread so I'll add my input for future readers. I ordered the oil relocation kit from 4x4parts.com The kit I recieved was a specific fit item from Transdapt. It fit well but the finish was pretty shoddy for a $70 part. I had to smooth out molded metal from the o-ring groove. If I had to do it over i would have bought a slightly more expensive billet machined adapter. For me the best place to locate my filter was in the engine compartment just behind the battery. No worries about the tire hitting it.

CBs like everything else can cost however much you want them too. I use mine to talk back and forth to other guys I'm out with. This super cheap one works for me. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XSEATG/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i01 What ever antenna you decide to go with if it is a decent model it needs to be "tuned" using a SWR meter to get the best recepion and transmitting distance. Good luck!

Put in 3" lift coils from 4x4.com It seems like way more than 3" but hopefully time will settle them in

I found this a few weeks ago when I was asking myself the very same question. Take a look and decide for yourself. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

I've had the Gray Quick crete stuff on my garage floor for almost 2 years now. It holds up great to normal traffic but will scratch up if you use metal car ramps without something under them. It also sun faded / oxidized on the 4 or so inches that are outside my garage door. Over all I'm real happy with it. The biggest messes have cleaned right up.

I haven't been able to find any GL4 tranny oil in my neck of the woods. I am going to use some Penzoil Synchrmesh MTF. It is speced for GM and Chrysler, but I use to use it in my Talon TSI with great results. Some Google action turned up that it is basically GL4 80W + additives. I'll post back here in 10,000 miles or so to let everyone know how it's doing.

Put on a new passenger door handle, and fixed the linkage so I can actually unlock the door with the key.

The do it yourself Duplicolor "Black Chrome" is designed to paint right on to shiny finishes like chrome but you need a good clean surface to start any imperfections you have will show through. Chrome is hard to get paint to stick to with the smooth finish. So if you are going the plain spray paint method, best bet is sand blast then paint.

Damn Raf, Glad to hear that you and the family are OK. Sorry I didn't hang around. I'm going out of town tomorrow and wanted a little more time with the family. I didn't take a lot of pics but here is a link to what I have. Hoppe your truck isn't to hard to get up and going 100%. http://s1117.photobucket.com/albums/k590/pbailey184/NPORA%20Crown%20King/

Are we settled on the meeting place and time tomorrow morning? Just let me know and I'll be there.

I saw on the news tonight that the storm put 18 in of sow in Crown King. Should be melted by Saturday but it might be muddy.

I'm definately a go for Saturday. I have a cb and a tent so I'm good. Looking forward to meeting up with you guys.

1989 just hit 210,000mi

You don't need a special HD adjuster. Even with stiffer T-bars the forces felt at the adjuster are the same, your suspension just moves less. It especially shoudnt have failed just driving down the road. Sometimes things get f-d up coming apart especially in a 20 year old machine. Any decent mechanic should have seen that and told you that you needed a new one. Unless you drove your Pathy off a 3 foot drop before it failed it is 99% the shop screwing up.

I'm pretty sure the answer is no. On US trucks the bolt patter is a mirror image on each side so not interchangeable. To be 100% sure look at your idler arm if the the 2 bolt side is toward the back of the truck you could use it. So looking at the idler the bolt pattern looks like this. Then yes. X X X If its like this then no. X X X

Mr 510 I just wanted to say thanks for this thread post and all the pictures. You inspired me and I did this mod to my 89 Pathy last week.

Replaced the passenger side CV Shaft, pulled out the rear sway bar and put Gabriel Hijackers in the back.

The wire going to the pumpkin is definately a speed sensor for the Isuzu computer. ABS tone rings are always out by the brake rotor and spin with each wheel. Good luck! Looks like you still got some work to do.

If you just converted over to R134a and it immediately was not as cold that actually makes sense, and there is probably nothing wrong with your system. R12 has a higher specific heat capacity, so in any system it will run colder with r12. Newer cars compentate for that by making the condenser (the radiator part of the A/C) much larger than the old r12 condensers to get the same amount of cooling.

Since both the Odometer and speedo quit at the same time there is definately something either wrong with the cable or where it connects to the speedo. At the end of the speedo cable there is a plastic piece that drives the speedo. It is pretty thin and gets brittle over time. Mine broke on me when I was replacing a speed for a different reason. I fixed mine by supergluing a piece of disposable pen over the out side. just made sure it was snug on the plastic piece and small enough to slide in the speedo. I have read a post about this happening to someone and they replaced that piece with a metal one. I'm not sure wheather they got the piece from Nissan or scrounged a wrecking yard for it. Good luck!