devonianwalk

I blacked mine out with some durable spray paint. Then, a couple of weeks ago, I plastidipped it and my brush guard.

Spray the bolts down tomorrow if you plan on removing them this coming weekend. It is amazing what penetrating oil can do.

Oh my .. lot's of minding and neverminding here. I broke mine by preparing them with PB Blaster a few days before trying to remove them. I did this on my wife's Honda Prelude and didn't have to "easy out" any of them. Hopefully you will have the same success that I had with her fifteen year old powerplant.

I think it's a little funny looking. Might be a good desert runner kit?

I would recommend saving some coin and elongate the bolt holes. It is proven to work and best of all, it's free!

Man, I don't know? I have the AC lift and NX4 1" spacers. I do have two sets of camber adjustment bolts and no issues at all with camber. Maybe peeps aren't adjusting them correctly?

I agree with Stioc. Mine kept up really well with the guys on the rocks with a "lowly" AC 2" lift rolling on 31's. The tire/wheel/lift combination looked proportionate. I am in the process of neutering my R50 back to stock (minus lift .. think I'll keep that) and I'm starting to miss the look. I just want Vajay to last another eleven years.

Exbrit had issues with the camber bolts but, they worked out just fine for me. The guys are elongating one of the bolt holes on the strut to gain the adjustment.

I'm with these guys. The hoses should fail long before the lower radiator (trans cooler) should.

Take a wheeling buddy. It'd be your luck to get stuck or break something with the wifey with you! Well, at least take some pics this time. I like to see what Fla can offer.

You have a keen eye or a larger monitor than me. Probably both!

I let mine warm up a bit as well. Shoot, even my manual gearbox in my Miata doesn't like to shift cold.

Nice! Did you keep any transferable parts? Hate to see the old one totaled though.

Yep. They were trying to screw me. Thanks!

Never mind .. I had a brain fart. The steelies are 15" and the Tri-spokes are 16".

I love it! I have been thinking about putting my factory Tri-spokes back on and plasti dipping them. My problem is that I have new 31's on my steelies. I might have to look into the possibility of mounting one on one of my factory wheels to check for front wheel placement. I can't remember if they will fit without a wheel spacer or not?

I sprayed my grill and brushguard yesterday using a cloth and brake cleaner to prep the surface. I took before pics but did not take any afters yet. It looks much better up close but, pretty much the same from the kitchen window. I need to order some clips from Rob this week so that I can spray the flares and reinstall them.

I like the way you think.

Curious? How much do machine shops up there charge for the valve job? My local (only) shop wanted $400 to do the valves, machine the surfaces, and perform a vacuum check on my wife's 4cyl Honda motor. I opted not to leave the head with them as I thought that sounded a little steep. Actually, I found a donor motor on Craigslist for $100 and pulled the head off of it and mounted it to the motor. Other than a very noisy intake valve, it has been running pretty well. We just can't take the noise any more and want to have the old head reworked.

Absolutely gorgeous sunset pic. Living just a few hours from there, I've never been to the OBX.

Got a cheap camera? I'd zip tie one on the under carriage and drive up and down a well lit street. Take it inside and watch for bad parts? *edit .. stupid autocorrect.

In my experience with failed CV's (both on separate cars) they would only make that "clunk" sound when putting them at extreme angles. I would hear/feel the clunk mostly on tight turns.

I had twelve ounces of courage.

I'm assuming that you guys are prepping the surfaces with some sort of solvent? Or are you guys just sanding first?

I will be doing this to my grill, brush guard, and soon to be reinstalled flares.