devonianwalk

I remember thinking when I removed mine of just how cheap they were. I'm pretty sure that if the running boards on your '95 are at all similar to mine, they'd buckle before you get the tires off of the ground.

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"HDPE" strut spacers?

Awesome! Was she running rough before the main seal repair?

I checked my service port hose yesterday. Clean as could be. Thanks for the tip though! I had the filler neck replaced several years ago. They honored the free replacement even though my Pathfinder only spent it's initial year in the North East (Rhode Island ... I think?). Maybe I should inspect the replacement to make sure it was installed correctly.

Have you checked the EGR valve? Vacuum lines? Do you have a SES light (code)?

I wouldn't take that bet as I don't like giving money away! (you're probably right )

Good point about picking up water. I'll make sure to look into that.

I'm currently going through the exact same problem. I have replaced my gas cap with an OEM from my local Nissan Stealership and cleared the code with my code reader. Just a day later the same P1440 code came back. Also, I have detected a strong smell of gasoline when I park after a short trip into town. Using my sniffer, I have detemined that my problem is not from the gas filler area. I'm 90+% sure that my problem is with the canister filter behind the driver side rear wheel. If I figure this thing out before you I'll be sure to post the remedy here. Other wise, I'll keep a close eye on your report.

Curious .. can the carbon be removed from the canister and reinstalled with out throwing the EVAP malfunction code? I'm going to have to tackle this on mine some time this summer.

You're almost a redneck!

What size tire did you go with ... and I totally dig your choice of wheel!

AWESOME! Welcome to the 4x4 world!!! ... and to add to that, my 99.5 LE has the fake wood and a manual transfer but, your still damn special bro!

I let my springs settle for six to seven months before buying my strut spacers from PAmountainbiker. I felt the "nose up" difference more than the visual stance. In other words, no one will notice but you!

That is exactly what I had to do when my timing got fskced. I turned each cam a tooth (or two) in order to align the timing marks on each side. I knew I had TDC by placing my finger loosely over the #1 cylinder and the air blew out. I kind of like Pathfounder's idea of using a dowel better. *** on a side note, a mechanic buddy of mine removes the crank pulley by stuffing soft rope (not nylon) in to one of the cylinders to "stop" the piston from moving. I thought that was pretty brilliant!

I would think that you would be going through the CV's if they are always engaged. I leave my manual hubs unlocked all the time with the exception of off roading. Even then, how long is a trail? 8, 10, 20 miles? I'll post here when/if my CV's fail. *knocks on wood*

Excellent idea.

Crank shaft pulley / harmonic balancer?

I don't know guys, it seems that he has really good compression coming from the exhaust. The idle RPM is also where it should be. However, what about the odd sound from the right cam (as best I could hear from the video)?

I had multiple codes on mine (I let my SES go for well over a year). I cleared them and waited for the light to come back on. Now I only get an intermittent EVAP malfunction code. Come to think of it, most of my codes were probably thrown when my engine jumped timing.

To twist the distributor, loosen the bolt (12mm I think?) and physically rotate the distributor by its cap ... wires and all. However, I'm starting to side with these guys on the tooth count based on what you are telling us.

Dizzy = Distributor Each engine cylinder is labeled 1 thru 6. Your plug wires will have the corresponding number for each cylinder and should have a number stamped on top of the distributor cap. I have no clue as to the ECU claim as mine never came up to speed until I loosened the distributor and rotated it, twisting it by hand, with the engine running. Once it sounded good, I had my buddy tweek it using his timing light a day or two later. *edit .. The video could help. Worse case is that you might be off a tooth as Adamzan stated. It is really easy to have the correct tooth count between both banks but, the crank could be off from your cams.

Ouch! It dosen't appear that there is too much of that gear left. Any idea how much of it you removed?

There should be a cylinder designation on the dizzy cap. Mine has the "1-2-3-4-5-6" stamped on the top next to each plug. Also, make sure the #6 plug is connected .. that one alomst drove me nuts when I did my plugs. Oh, and I had to retard my timing by rotating the dizzy after doing my timing belt change. Some say that the ECU will compensate for the timing but, I did witness a better idle when I played with my cap. Maybe the ECU neede some time to compensate?