Nefarious

this is a jeep rubicon front axle. has links, coils, and driver side drop.... seems like it would be perfect, no? can anyone see a problem in using this setup??? i could just use some adapters to run my 6x5.5 rims.... please if anyone knows of a reason this will make things difficult speak up? otherwise im going searching for a rubi axle! the only thing i read that threw me off is that it doesn't have locking hubs? huh? do they mean it doesnt have UNlocking hubs? as in the drive train is always spinning? isnt that kind of stupid ? lol

i guess there is no magic junk yard axle that comes from the factory with: - driver side drop - coil buckets - 3 link or radius arm setup - 59-60 WMS to match the pathy 59 WMS (6 bolt would be nice but not necessary...) ????

thanks for info on the gears by the way . ill swap in xterra 4.9s when i do the limited slip and disc brakes in back, 4.88 up front sounds perfect. oh well guess the truck will have even more power

Hey thanks yeah i read nissan nuts website and there is a lot of good info there but he uses a dana 44 from a wagoneer but does anyone know if the dana 44 from a waggy can be welded to?? i heard the knuckles are cast and hard to weld to, ive never welded to cast.... i am kind of looking for a budget build. i am going to fab most of it myself like nissannut did, so junkyard axles are where i want to be. i have the tools to cut the arms and thread the ends for heims and johnny joints.. i have never done a solid axle but have a lot of welding experience and random fab work. worked in a fab shop for a year. is it possible for me to weld link mounts to the waggy axle?

Hey everyone. Well I have pretty much come to the point where I need to decide to either beef the hell out of the IFS or just go solid axle and be done with it. I wheel my truck all the time, i am always driving it offroad and my center link is worn and the tie rods will be done soon. I am lifted 3" so ideally i should have upper control arms (although the balljoint angles dont look too crazy) but im sure they will be on their way out next. Well I am going back and forth on whether to beef up my IFS or go solid axle... I would need to spend probably 1000$ all said and done to get my IFS to where it can handle my 33x12.5s and regular trail abuse. So im thinking I will go with a solid axle... The thing is i DO NOT want to use leafs up front, honestly it just seems silly to have great handling(on/off road) and articulation of a 5 link in the rear and then have the old truck-like feeling front end. I drive my truck on the road, and I drive it at speeds. I do not want to be limited to the speed I can go on the highway, and I also want my ride to be NICE on the road, like it is now. Predictable and well damped, with good handling and speed on/off road. So basically I need a coil-sprung front axle with either radius arms or a 3-link(with panhard). I've been trying to do my research on this but I have some questions regarding my predicament.... I am assuming at this point beefing up the IFS is just a waste of time? Seems like it might cost more in the end if my tie rods and balljoints keep going... Plus i really want some real front flex. I'm SO SICK of my whole truck tipping sideways when all that needs to happen is a little bit of axle movement!!! My rear axle just shines with longer springs and 3" longer shocks... I really want to get the front doing what the rear does!! So... to end this post, what is the best axle choice for me? I have found some information but it's scattered and I'm having a hard time getting anything concrete....so is there any axle I can use that has the following..: dana 44 ideally for strength(would settle for 30 if it means i dont have to weld anything to the axle) Driver side drop Coil/link/radius arm mounts regular steel axle so I can weld link mounts to it (i have no idea how to weld cast...and I hear it's hard) 6 lug hubs(or a conversion possible) something close to my 4.63 rear end ratio for gears available (i would switch up to 4.9 if i really had to but I have tons of power to push my 33s with my vg33e swap and I like my low revs on the highway at speeds so I would like to stay 4.63 if possible) and not something that is crazy wide! I would like to stay as close to stock width as possible... the wagoneer axle sounds like it would be okay but I read I have to cut and turn c's? and isnt it leaf sprung? is it hard to weld to to convert to links? are there any other options?? thanks!!

amen to that. and dude I love your avatar pic!! Fellow black metal appreciater? Or are you just mocking it. lol

ya man im running a vg33e with no egr, no cat. runs great. better than before. go for it. make sure to plug all vacuum lines and the egr tube on the manifold and the hole in the intake manifold!

i know i was just saying for other people it would be a good idea i have the 'PROPER' version of the pathy that doesn't give unnecessary check engine lights. lol

are the gear ratios the same in the later HD automatic and does it still have some of the common age-related complaints of the older pathy autos like the slow/laggy 2-3 shift and slow shifting between drive and reverse and the such? my auto is still running strong it seems and i blew out the heat exchanger and it was clean inside but i hate how it over revs second gear 500-600 rpm higher than the rest for no reason. i do love manual as i have always driven them up until i got my pathy but i really like my 1750-1900 rpm highway cruising with the 33s and 4.63 gears/auto and vg33e swap. that final drive with the torque converter locked just hauls so smooth on the highway. i hate revving more than 2 grand on the highway its just annoying so the later auto hd seems like the better choice.... just want to know if it has its quirks as well or is it nice and solid?? i want better shifts.. also the auto sure is nice offroad. a lot easier to just left foot brake then to heel-toe....

^ that would probably work great for bpt equipped rigs. i personally have never looked back after removing my egr/cat as i have a good amount more power now and any power helps with all this weight to move around!!! i guess i was lucky to have a rig without a BPT valve so I have no issues with the CEL. although i don't live in an area with any inspections or smog requirements...

if the wheels are spinning the same way, you have a LSD. You probably have an LSD in the rear and an open diff in the FRONT. there will be a sticker on the back of the rear diff. i dont think r50 had lsd as an option in the front diff but I could be wrong. jack up the front and spin one side see if the other side spins the same... it should also have a sticker if its a factory front lsd i believe. someone correct me if im wrong I thought only aussy trucks had front lsd as an option.

I think that will be my direction.^

It must be for 95 models that the ecu doesn't like it removed...what a shame. are pre 94 and post 94 ecus the same? could u swap in a 93 ecu so you dont get the cel or error code?? even when i check my codes it reads a solid 55 a-ok every time. zero emissions and the egr is completely removed. my truck had no bpt valve. was just the egr to remove.

I fabbed a block off plate for the intake manifold and then plugged off the exhaust headers tube with a (i think 22 or 24mm) threaded plug. looks nice and clean and no. I have zero check engine light, zero trouble codes on the ecu. My truck is a 1993 with 1993 ecu 1996 vg33e and zero emissions (well still evap but not for long). Using the 1993 ecu to run the emission-less vg33e with cold air intake/headers w/ 2" collectors and 2.5 inch exhaust and it still runs perfectly. I love nissan ecus.... I really need to look into that M30 swap to make even more power! But back on track.. Im not home now but I'll snap a quick shot of the block off plate when I get home. I actually should have a picture around here of what I used to plug the header-side of the egr tube. I went around all over trying to find a plug for the damn header that would fit like stock and just thread in. I didn't want to do something nasty like welding up the hole. It was a threaded plug I found in an old 240sx KA transmission I had laying around. I'm sure it would only be a 2$ part if you could find a part number for it, or even just hit the junkyard if theres any 240s with trans still in them... Threaded in perfect to the oem manifold-side egr tube hole. lol lucked right out! Heres a pic. the plug came out of that hole and had that spring behind it. and that plug fits right in there and fits like it was made for it.

X2

I removed my egr and my cat converter. evap is soon to go as well for turbo piping room hehe. Yay for zero emissions testing where i live. Ps my truck runs great without emissions and my mileage/power both improved slightly.

Yeah I was thinking it would be fun.... I may just make my square dash gauge console fit the round dash and then extend any switch wires to fit where needed. Some gauges change signal from 90 to 93 and 94 to 95 right? I have a 93 and I HATE the square ugly red dash lol. Which gauges change between square and round?

That's strange I never had a code when I removed mine..I removed the entire system. Hm I guess some ecu are different in that way.

Yes the point is changing the toe while you drive. . But if you meant at the wrong times then you are partially correct, if the car has overly worn rear suspension Bushings or a bad alignment then it can get out of whack. With good Bushings and a solid alignment the car handles like its on rails and eliminates the slight understeer inherent with the s13 chassis. The hicas is not good however if you drift. when the rear wheels spin the hicas computer is reading an incorrect vehicle speed and can turn the wheels the wrong amount or at the wrong time. For grip though it is quite fun and is incredibly nimble in the twisties.

I noticed a gain in power if anything on my truck. I am also running a vg33e with intake headers and 2.5 exhaust. No egr, I have a 93 and I have zero issues and no codes or check engine light. Starts within 1-2 cranks every time. Runs and drives like a bat out of hell. I'm convinced the egr is useless other than maybe to help emissions a bit... they don't even use them on most jdm Nissan motors.

As long as you have some kind of tie/toe rod then it should be fine to align... as long as it returns to perfect center. My 240sx has electronic hydraulic rear steer (super hicas) from the factory. Although it only turns a few degrees in the rear its the same theory. And a 4 wheel alignment costs the same for it. It just has extra beefy rear tie rods.

My pathfinder rides a LOT better with jgc springs and cranked tbars then it did stock, just for the record. It is more firm but rides nicer on the road.

For the record; when I removed my egr there was no bpt valve on the original vg30e. Mine is a 93. So it wasn't just round dash/tooth models.

Yeah I have a deleted the egr on my old vg30e.. did it because I simply could not get the Damn bung out when I replaced my cracked manifold so I just capped it. Noticed no difference... then when I swapped to vg33e and headers I just left it out. No problems... good power and mileage...