Nefarious

You need to first set the motor at Top dead center on the compression stroke. (There are many tricks to finding this with the distributor out, you can google it). Once the motor is set at TDC on compression stroke then you can drop in the distributor into the hole and line it up following the picture in the factory service manual. For reference, after the distributor is in, the cap should be pointing directly at the number 1 cylinder plug terminal on the distributor itself (not the actual #1 cylinder of your engine). Hope this helps.

so what the hell is happening? lol get some pics up!

status, status??? I'm antsy!

if it's an auto it's a lot easier. you have to unbolt the transmission from the motor. unbolt the torque converter from the motor, (you can access these bolts via the access plate and starter hole once it's removed). You unbolt all the harnesses and vacuum lines, radiator/fan/shroud, air intake, exhaust (either at the exhaust ports or at the manifold-pipe flange). If it's a 5 speed im pretty sure you have to drop the front differential so you have enough room to slide the motor forward before you lift it out.

Ohh!! Ok Haha awesome. That is a good thing to know.. lol thanks for clearing that up. Just trying to find a good rate at a machine shop and this setup is going in my rig too

Okay I was looking through the junkyard the other day. I had a serious question here regarding the 2wd setup... I looked at my factory front sway bar (using energy suspension extended end links for my lift) and it looks like the tie rods from the 2wd might interfere with the factory 4wd front sway bar.... the 2wd sway bar wraps way up high and then drops down and mounts to the very front of the frame to avoid the tie rods. does the 2wd setup not interfere with the factory 4wd sway bar? if its close i dont care, but if there is contact that is a major no no. i would be willing to custom fit a 2wd sway bar to work with the 4wd setup because from looking at it, it doesn't look like it would interfere at all with the 4wd components but custom mounts would have to be worked to the front of the frame (right under the rad basically). by the way i looked at the 4runner and full size chevy IFS front ends. they looked identical to the 2wd hardbody but with 4wd models.... why nissan chose to make a dogbone center link i have no idea.... no wonder the 4runner guys can run 33-35s all day long with just a little accelerated wear... it is a much better system. now after looking at all those 4wd trucks in the junkyard i don't wonder why it is a better setup. the tie rods follow a parallel path to the control arms, they bisect the line inbetween upper and lower control arm, so there would be next to no bump steer even while lifted. not trying to post jack just wanting to confirm the front sway bar interference or not... it looks like it would be close and probably not so bad on a stock front sway bar endlink truck with no lift but i want to make sure that the tie rods dont interfere when the truck while lifted with a front sway bar/extended end links. thanks!

This has been covered a lot but when I put in my 97 pathfinder 3.3 I made the 3.3 accessories work in the 93. Made a custom bracket to move the power steering pump closer to the block to clear the frame rails. The 98 alternator is 90 rather than 60 amps of the 92. Also the newer power steering pump is stronger. If you want to keep your 3.0 accessories you need to either take apart the whole motor or use a crank adapter from Mr.510 on this forum. Crank adapter is by far the fastest and easiest way to do the swap if you need it done ASAP.

Sounds to me like he is wondering if there are any bolt on coilover/coil spring mount kits so he can run coilovers and long shocks to get some real lift and travel out of the IFS?

Mounted up a steering stabilizer setup... Monroe shock 55$, Nissan oem steering pin 19$, Lordco hardware to mount it all 3$. Total of 77$. So happy with it! Drives like a full size now with the 33x12.5 tires and 15x10 steel rims..

That's great then I should have no issues as I have no P.S. lines down by the crossmember with my R50 VG33E swap. Yeah I really want to see this thing setup and make sure there are no frame rubbing issues or anything... I just did the steering stabilizer and my center link is pooched. I need to upgrade and this seems to be the best way with my lift...

The center link and inner tie rods from the equivalent year 2wd hardbody are used. Then take the pathfinder adjustment sleeves and get the one end(the inner end when looking at installed) of them reamed out to 18mm and re tapped, but only half way. The hardbody inner tie rods are thicker diameter and must be made to fit in the pathfinder adjustment sleeves.

you could have bought a wrench set and done that job for 100-150$ using junkyard parts and new tie rods and done it yourself! oh well its fixed now! just for future reference it is not hard to work on the suspension of pathies....

cant wait

p.s. hurry up Tungsten....

Okay a steering stabilizer DOES take the SHOCK out of the system, so like Slartibartfast said it like jumping off the building reference or whatever is pretty accurate. It will not protect your vehicle from UP and DOWN vibration or impacts as in your wheels going OVER a big rock. It takes out the aggression of the SIDE impacts as in the parts that the steering controls... When you a rock hits the SIDE of your wheel and tries to shove the wheel sideways really hard it will cushion that force, acting as a what do you know... a DAMPER. To dampen the impact of the blow... You are right it won't do much for the balljoints because most of the force on the balljoints is when the suspension is articulating up and down. Not a lot of wear hits balljoints from side to side motion as thats what the steering is attached to and does. The balljoint is just a pivot point and its a hell of a lot fatter than the rest of the joints.... It will help a little bit for balljoints but what it is mainly for is the STEERING JOINTS. The tie rods/centerlink/idler arm... Just like riding down the road with just springs would be very stiff and harsh and in no time you would be pounding your spine into herniation. Add shocks and voila you won't even bruise your butt. It's for SIDE loads that the shock stabilizes and instead of being a shocking jolt to one side and then having the opposing resistance of the opposite wheel and steering wheel forcing it straight, that's where the wear is created! It cushions the whole system so there are no sudden changes. If one wheel gets hit hard from a side impact its going to try and shove the steering wheel and the opposing wheel with it but they resist that change and create a wear point. As well as any play in the system allowing that wear to exacerbate the situation, letting the problem get even worse. That is why the hoohaa center link works as it stops the twisting force which just adds another "shock" to the system as soon as an impact is taken and it quickly straightens itself and twists and hurts the joints. As well as the better design of the of the 2WD system which would also allow less twisting forces and better leverage... The whole point is to; for one, take the shock out of the system. if you are shocking steering joints with anything like hard side impacts then you need to take that violent force out to regulate the speed and force which are applied to the system/joints. if you have a shock instead of the system just having free play then you have a controlled much slower and much less harsh impact, and the force is absorbed into shock instead of into the sideways controlling joints. Does that make more sense? Just like any other part of the suspension which articulates up and down (which obviously needs shocks), once you start applying hard SIDE loads to the system (as with 4x4ing and the such) you need to dampen that force to increase control and to allow the system time to adjust, and not just be outright and quickly forced into a new position. When you are on a normal road it is not a big deal as there are no real side loads other than steering, so they don't come on most vehicles but as soon as you start adding forces in places where there is no protection you are asking for trouble. Steering stabilizers DO increase the wear life of STEERING components, I don't know about 2-3x as much wear protection but it is significant. You go try taking the shocks out of your truck and ride down the road and then say it is not as harsh feeling on you or your vehicle. Those forces do exist and they have to GO SOMEWHERE. It may help a little in the balljoints as well but not nearly as much as the steering. sorry but i had to chime in I just cant take this one anymore. lol

the whine is probably either your power steering pump or your idler pulley for your drive belts.

fixed an exhaust leak on the pathy.... and just sneaking it in here cause I can but replaced the spark plugs and maf on my 1990 300ZX, just waiting for the battery to charge before i try and fire her up for the first time!!!! :D:D

Ya I can't wait much longer I am about to just try it myself since my centerlink is so worn. Hurry up dude GAWD! lol jk..