Nefarious

Well the old timing belt I pulled off had alignment marks printed right on it, I just transferred them over to the new belt, I double checked the count 3 times between the lines...hmm well I'm going back at it today..its all torn down just need to loosen the tensioner and line everything back up. Man I wish parts store belts came with the lines on them!

hmm, well I am hopeful her truck will be fine too!! She hasn't even been able to drive it yet, we got it really cheap (400$) and its absolutely MINT zero rust 93 se with every single option as far as i know. just been fixing up the issues it had and this was the last thing to go. I really want to get her driving it for winter, haha.

so you jumped a few teeth on the crank and the valves were okay? I used the marks that were on the old belt and transfered them over, I counted 40 valleys in between the RH and LH cam sprockets and 43 between the LH cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. that's what the fsm said is normal for a 94 pathy. this is a square tooth 93 but im assuming it's the same tooth count.

Yeah I was thinking i should probably check the compression.... ill have to pick up a compression gauge next time im at princess auto. man I really hope that's not the case, I'm being optimistic as I really don't feel like tearing down the head to replace the valves. Worst comes to worst I could just vg33e swap it like I did to my truck... well here's hoping they are fine. so it would be possible to have the locations of the cam sprockets vs the crank sprocket become changed by a wrong sized belt? It just seems strange to me how that would work if the number of teeth between 2 points wouldnt be able to change (i think) as long as there was adequate tension.

Hey everyone. I have a freaking weird question.... I just did the timing belt on my gfs vg30e wd21. I have done timing a few times (even on a z32 vg30de) so it's not new to me or anything... I was extremely careful when I put everything back together. I marked the new timing belt exactly to the marks of the old timing belt I pulled off. I lined up the new belt to the cam sprockets and crank sprocket. The marks on the cam sprockets lined up perfectly to the backing plate of the timing cover and the crank sprocket lined up to the oil pump marking I made. Easy, right?. Went right on ,didn't have to adjust anything to make it fit. Weird part is, i put it all back together...go to fire it up...no luck, it turns over and tries to fire a bit (very faintly) doesn't even catch and try to run, just a few putts. Just sounds like the starter is turning the motor and thats it. So I tear everything back down again, take off the upper and lower timing cover again and now my cam sprockets don't line up to the crank sprocket anymore! With piston 1 at TDC the crank sprocket still lines up with the oil pump mark I made perfectly, but the cam sprockets have now moved themselves 4 teeth clockwise! (looking at the front of the truck). The distance between the 2 cam sprockets is still exactly the same, but the distance between the left side cam sprocket and the crank sprocket is now 4 teeth closer together. I'm not going by the belt marks here, these are the marks on the actual sprockets.... I have never had this happen before... The only thing I can think of is the timing belt is the wrong size. it says 133 teeth right on it, but who knows.... The other thing I don't get is how would cam sprockets move in relation to the crank sprocket, but not move in relation to one another, they are still the right spacing between the two cam sprockets, but the spacing between the LH side cam sprocket and crank sprocket are now off. I'm hoping no valves are bent as I have heard no noise out of the ordinary and the motor still feels normal to spin with the breaker bar... We are going to pick up a new belt tomorrow (this one was from ebay, but I have used this same brand on my z32 300zx without any issues at all) and make sure it has the timing marks on it already. Please if anyone has any clue why the cam sprockets could get off timing in relation to the crank sprocket but not to each other. I'm really hoping it's just the new belt as it was fine before I took it off! but I still don't understand how the cam sprockets could move equally 4 teeth closer clockwise to the crank sprocket. any help would be good! thanks

Well I think I can chime in here...I have never had that problem with my pathfinder but I also have a 240sx(90s Nissan are quite similar) ..I had almost the exact same issue on it once...it randomly would run really rough and almost die with a really low idle. It also ran really rich, it ended up being a corroded and loose maf sensor plug. I just unplugged the harness, cleaned the plug and receptacle and it ran great again. I also had full tune up and had been driving it the last 100 000 km without issue. Worth a check!

(Right side if you are looking at the engine from the front of the truck)

Maybe there's still air in the block or heads. You need to bleed the coolant system. Don't try and burp it out, Nissan put a bleeder bolt at the highest point in the cooling system. It's near the firewall on the right side of the intake manifold, by the pcv valve. Just undo the bolt (10mm) and fill with coolant until it starts to come out there. Then you know u have a perfectly bled system. You don't even need the engine running. I would try that before anything else...

I have a custom plate steel rear bumper but mine sits about 3-5 mm above the bumper. No contact between tire carrier/latches/bumper here.

It's described in detail on this thread, i also have a thread where i made a 2wd steering setup in a slightly different way, It's also listed in the hardcore section.. I should have pics up in mine.

Hey haven't been on in a while, I did mean welding the balljoint spacers to the uca. In addition to low profile bumpstops is what I should have said..not on top of. Lol just re-read my old post. Boxing in the bottom as well or at the least trussing them. I may also change the balljoint angle of the uca to better suit the steeper angles.

i run goodyear duratracs. great all year tires. 33x12.5. never been stuck with em, they drive amazing in the ice/snow, even hardpack road ice. and they are quiet and get good mileage on the highway. win win. they aren't very cheap tho! lol

I have had the 2wd setup on my truck for about 8 months now. I wheel my truck with jeeps and yotas in very technical mountain trails regularly. I have noticed much less bump steer with my setup. City driving was greatly improved, as well as off road. The wheel used to jerk around all over the place with the stock setup, now it is very controlled. Keep in mind my front torsion are maxed out in height with low profile bump stops so my front end is lifted about 3.5 inches or more over stock. Can only speak for my lifted suspension but it definitely has much less bump steer than stock at this height.

Sry bro, thought old subarus would be common up there with all the snow and all!

Subaru rear end might be a good one to look into, also the z32 non turbo 300zx uses an r200 rear end but u will have to work with a multi link suspension. I believe the subaru uses double wish bone out back like the pathy front.

Sounds cool to me. Would be unique and great for deep snow clearance. Might even handle better!