Nefarious

no problem! glad I could help. im sure it will come back around again sometime!

check to see if one of the wires is pink/black stripe. that should go to ground, i had the same thing happen a few weeks ago.

^^^ omg omg omg that thing is so beautiful!!!! I want it for my 240sx!!!!! Are you going VG-t?

Installed Energy Suspension Ultra low profile upper bump stops and removed and chopped the factory lower bump stops and re-installed them on my girlfriends 93 SE. Gained her Pathy about another 2+ inches of front wheel travel over all. The thing rides quite respectably now. Such a cheap mod but what a difference it makes!

what colour are the wires that are left over? I just installed a deck in my girlfriends 93 pathfinder and had the exact same issue. It ended up being a wire that needed to be put to ground. (can't remember the colour right now but I believe it was pink with a black stripe). I wired in an aftermarket deck (no adapter harness, just old fashioned splicing) and the dash lights and heater control lights didn't work after (stereo worked fine). Pink-black stripe wire was then put to ground and the dash lights work fine now. We still didn't get the heater control lights back on yet, but im sure it's the other wire right beside it, probably also has to go to ground. Worth a shot!

I think I'm going to make an alignment how to. Settings tbars, camber, caster. I'm sure a lot of people could benefit from it. I'm convinced I have it down better than the fsm... my wd21 is on 3+ inch torsion crank, 1" bj spacers, low profile bump stops, 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel low offset rims...and stock control arms and my alignment is deadly good. Rides nice in town, nice down the highway.(also have the 2wd swap installed)

I set my own alignment....shimming the ucas is easy. An angle finder makes it easy but even a construction level and a level floor is enough to do camber and caster. Set the ride height u want first. Then adjust shims for camber after.... best way to do it if u want the truck to track true

Well today was the day to fix the intermittent "no start" issue with my girlfriends 93 Path SE MT. Quite often the truck would start fine and have no issues, but every once in a while the thing just wouldn't start. No cranking, no nothing, just some relays clicking. So I investigated, cleaned all the connections everywhere...Found some bad wiring insulation, tidied up a bunch of things but none of them were the issue. Eventually I tracked it down to the Clutch Interlock Relay... I guess Pathfinders from the USA have a funky clutch interlock system in them. My Canadian 240sx and a couple of buddies with MT Pathfinders do not have the system at all... Anyways I jumped the high current terminals on the connector for the one side of the interlock relay, pulled the relay, taped it all up. Now the truck starts every time! (last few days the truck would take about 50 tries to start, totally ridiculous and in canada there is no part listing for this relay since it wasnt on canadian models as far as i can tell) anyways. now the thing starts every time, first time. that was such an annoyance of her truck that I never had to worry about with mine. Anyways it's all good now,... I also pulled the driver door lock out thinking it was broken but upon inspection found that there was a broken off key inside it from the P.O., anyways I extracted it and reinstalled and voila! the thing works perfectly again.... all that's left to fix on her truck now is one side has a stuck e-brake cable and the power door locks dont work at all. the 420$ truck is almost perfect now!

BTW those Bushings don't look too bad in my opinion. Hard to tell from a pic but I've seen much worse.

hahaha dude, that makes me want to get a garmin just so I can see my pathy going down the road on the screen.

yeah for the best ride quality you need your bumpstops to be centered with an equal distance between the rubber bump stops and the metal bump pad, a little higher is fine too (an inch or so) if you want to maintain stock ride quality.

is your camber positive or negative?? negative camber is when the wheels lean in at the tops like this /------\. positive camber is when the tops lean out like this \------/. cranking the torsion bars to lift the suspension up higher will increase NEGATIVE camber, de-cranking the torsion bars to lower the truck will increase POSITIVE camber. just so you know which way does what. you shouldnt be setting the bulk of the camber adjustment with the torsion bars anyways, to adjust camber properly, shims are placed behind both upper control arms bolts. to increase positive caster, shims are placed behind just the front upper control arm bolts. you will probably see shims sandwiched between the frame and UCA if you look at the frame where your upper control arms bolt to the frame. They are inserted there. Add shims behind both UCA bolts to increase positive camber, remove shims from both UCA bolts to increase negative camber. Add shims behind just the front UCA bolt to increase positive caster, remove shims from behind only front UCA bolt to increase negative caster. Fine adjustment can then be done with the torsion bar adjustments (raise suspension to increase negative camber, lower suspension to increase positive camber) it says all this in the factory service manual, u can download it on this site (thank you NPORA). I personally haven't needed to adjust the t-bars for camber after i set my ride height so my truck is perfectly even height side to side.. i just adjusted with shims to get the camber and caster in spec...and im lifted about 3.5 inches in the front suspension and the truck rides great.

if you look in that thread there are build dates I posted from my 2wd swap. after a certain month in 92' is when the pitman arms changed to the large taper. any 93-95 should be fine and SOME late build date 92s should as well. its easy to tell u pop the center link out of the hole. it will be bigger than the idler arm side.

your cv boot looks pretty torn up there, may want to replace that to protect the joint unless it is already pooched.

Bad Bushings won't usually show up as loose play when shaking by hand. That rubber is used to taking massive amounts of load when the vehicle is rolling down the road, so you probably won't see much play by hand unless they are completely destroyed. Only real way to tell is by visually inspecting them. If they look kind of shrunk like the rubber doesn't fit super tight against the edges, of the metal sleeve/bushing housing. Also if its cracked all over. Either case the bushings need to be done. Uca Bushings are cake, super easy with some basic cheap tools. Lca involve a hell of a lot more work.... Swapping the steering box really isn't bad. Just find a steering box in the same year range to yours with no play and swap the whole box/pitman assembly. don't bother removing the pitman... junkyards boxes are usually sold with the pitman arm attached. I swapped a 95 box with zero play to my 93 path that had major play and its been great ever since. Just find a low km granny driven donor and swap it in. You could buy new if u like but they are not cheap! Find a nice and tight used one and if need be adjust it further (but carefully, you can ruin a box easy if you adjust it incorrectly!) If need be.

Could have totally blown shocks too. My pathy rode like it had no suspension when I first got it. The shocks were so toast they wouldnt let the suspension cycle I couldn't even move them in or out by hand. Just felt like they were full of sand. Might be worth checking out.

napa carries gates timing belts, only about 17 bucks i believe. really high quality belt, good price

you can get a set of balljoints for super cheap online. i paid i believe 70$ for all four (2 upper, 2 lower) balljoints on ebay. they have been holding up great even with lots of wheeling. if ya do the work yourself it really doesn't cost much! a set of tools pays for itself pretty quickly...

Well I have a build thread on here in the garage section. If u search for "vg33e swap into wd21" read through those pages, there is a lot of info and will go through the options. all the pictures are in the end. Basically, there are 4 options. 1) r50 pathfinder vg33e, adapt r50 accessories, this is what I did with my truck and is in the build thread. It is a lot of work though and you need a welder. And some fab skills 2) r50 pathfinder vg33e, (or any vg33e really) and Mr.510s crank balancer adapter. This let's you use all your stock vg30e accessories on the vg33 block. Easiest route by far. Just some custom work for the alternator tensioner is required and I think Mr.510 can supply that too if you so desire...(I'm using the adapter and modding my own alt bracket on my girlfriends pathys vg33e swap to save downtime) 3) wd22/d22 vg33e, you can use the vg33 from an xterra or frontier since the accessory placement is similar and the lines should work. But I do believe the a/c lines are different... have to do some custom there. 4) last option. Is mixing and matching vg30/vg33 engine parts to make a hybrid motor and then use stock accessories. Vg30 crank in the vg33 engine, vg30e oil pump and I think water pump. Something like that u will have to search. There's a basic rundown tho. There's lots of info on this site including my thread. Hope it helps!

Hey there everyone. I have a 93 XE Path with a vg33e swap. I already have a high flow intake, obx headers, 2.5" exhaust, soon to be a modded vg33e intake manifold/throttle body and an n60 (80 mm) maf. I have a huge amount more airflow in this motor than it had stock and now the only thing limiting me is an ECU tune and a set of cams. I am about to do a vg33e on my girlfriends 93 SE Path and will be taking out her tired old vg30e. I will then be promptly stealing her old cams to swap into my truck to complete the deal. I read the WD21 VG30E cams are 248/248 duration and .393" lift, and the VG33E cams are 240/248 duration and .354" lift. Seems like a decent amount of lift increase with just a little bit of a power band shift with the duration. I was wondering if anyone here has done this specific swap? I thought I remember somewhere in a signature that someone had done this and just wanted to know a few things... 1. What kind of power increase did you notice? 2. Was there any loss of gas mileage? 3. Did they just bolt in and did you use your factory lifters? My VG33E lifters are dead silent and would like to retain them.. 4. How do you like them? Any info is great, thanks!

I had one that wouldnt come off at all, the threads were so jammed up with rust it locked itself in place but the next one i tried wasn't bad. Use a torch (map gas isa lot better than propane and can usually be brought to the wreckers). If the nut doesn't crack, use the torch. It's a life saver! Then once the nut is off use a pitman arm pulled and alternate between tightening the press bolt of the pitman arm remover and hitting the side edge of the exposed part of the pitman arm. Between the pressure of the puller and the bashing with a hammer it should let go. It is by no means fun but its worth it! I promise! This steering is one of the nicer things I've done to my rig and it doesnt cost much!

a quick search told me its 1 5/8 inch or 41mm. Might want to double check but that's what I found. I used a massive crescent wrench when I did mine.

That's an Idler arm brace and steering damper. Those are separate components to the 2wd drive swap and are unrelated. The tie rods and center link are stock in your truck and are the issue trying to be improved upon with the swap. If your steering is still tight though...might as well wait and just do the 2wd swap when your steering is worn. Those upgraded parts in the pic are kept with the 2wd swap. Keep in mind the stock steering is fine at stock ride height. This systems benefits are its increased travel for lifted trucks and the thicker tie rod shafts which attach more inward on the centerlink and at a 90 degree orientation as opposed to stock so as to run the joint to twist where it is not limited by the joints pivot angle. There is also less bumpsteer since the angles of the inner tie rods and lower control arms are much closer to each other, especially as the front suspension is extended. It rides great with my truck with 3.5" of front suspension lift. Running 33x12.5 tires with 15x10 rims (not sure of offset but its very very low) and small tire steering stops for max steering angle.

Not that I am aware of. As far as I know, all hardbody 2wd center links have the small taper size on both ends. It is required to use a 90-92 pitman arm on your truck, which has the correct small taper hole for the center link. It also has the correct large splined hole on the large end to fit the steering gear output shaft diameter which your 93 steering gear uses. You can pull one from the junk yard for next to nothing. Just make sure the production dates of the donor truck matches those posted earlier in the thread. Bring a pitman arm puller, a mapp gas torch, a big crescent wrench (or the proper socket) and a BIG HAMMER. lol.