Nefarious

Iacv or aav connector. Make sure all the plugs at the BACK of the plenum have a mate.

I'll try and get some pictures of my setup today. I'm running a flowmaster 40 but If you wanted it quieter you could switch to a flowmaster 50 series . It would make the system a lot more 'friendly'. Lol. Still great low end sound but the 50 is quieter up top. I do plan on switching to it but not until the 40 rots.

The cylindrical shaped thing I'm not too sure. Neither of my pathys have that.

Please tell me u remembered to put the plug back on the knock sensor before the plenum went back on? That almost looks like the aav plug but it would be easy to see where it goes.

I think that black plug should go behind the plenum on the drivers side. U have the plugs hooked back up to your auxillary air valve, your idle air control valve, knock sensor under the plenum, etc?

Upload a video of the noise. If its bottom end rod knock then I fear swapping sensors won't help the issue. There is probably mechanical damage. Hard to day without hearing the noise though. Is it a clunking knocking sound or is it a more high pitched tapping sound? Is it consistent or is it intermittent/uneven sounding?

I built my exhaust system from scratch on my vg33 swapped 1993 path. I used obx headers with 2" exits, the y pipe I built transitions from the dual 2" pipes to 2.5" at the collector. From there its 2.5" all the way back using a weld in magnaflow cat and flowmaster muffler and the pipe exits in front of the rear wheel. It's loud for sure but really throaty. Low grumble down low and screams up high. I built the whole system including headers, wrap, paint, cat, muffler and pipe for around 280$. I can get a running vid up if interested in how it sounds.

Do a continuity test on the wire that runs from the fuel pump to the relay, u may have an intermittent open on that wire.

Interesting. Well I know most vgs are but when I saw the size of the piston dishes I couldn't see much chance of contact but I guess it still is.

Are you sure you have all your engine harness connectors and grounds hooked up properly, namely the fuel injection harness on the passenger valve cover?

Probably the small coolant pipe on the rear of the lower plenum. I use rtv there.

A power diode in series with the solar panel and an auto trickle charger wired up into the current path as to not overcharge the battery. There are many simple to make circuits online that you can make yourself with some solder and project breadboard. I recall seeing a few simple trickle charger circuits on there that could be used to DIY it. Or you could just buy one I guess Haha.

I've done it a couple times, but like that which has been said.... need pix! Lol. Everything should plug right back in.. only difference I had with wiring was the oil pressure sender wire needed to be extended. Show some pics of the plugs that are remaining?

Hmm. I really want these but I just can't justify it still since shipping to Canada from 4x4parts is ridiculous.... i can get first gen z31 cams for quite a bit cheaper at the jy and they are .393 lift with 252/252 duration, local pick a part charges 10$ per cam. I'll use them on my vg33 until a more affordable option comes along to Canada. It's a shame! Really love the results of that set of cams

Awesome, thanks for the info. I am about to do the swap again on my gfs truck this time and this info will help

Worked on my girls 93.. 4 of the 6 front skid plate bolts were snapped off so I drilled them all out, expanded the holes and tapped them for M8x1.25 bolts. She now has a skidplate again. Also removed and replaced the cam seals and front main seal on her VG33E that's just about ready to go in.

Yeah I am going to be running the n62 maf and going to be tuning my pathfinders ecu. Probably start with an emulator until I get the most out of it then hard burn an eeprom once i have a solid bin. I'll be running a wideband with live knock monitor to get the most out of it. Love the setup though, can't wait to see it with a supercharger. I am keeping mine factory compression ratio to run a rear mount turbo eventually,you should take some pics of your rig, I wanna see!

Yeah so far my list will be as follows... healthy vg33e 170 psi across the board, early z31 cams, n62 maf, vg33e intake manifold and throttle body, gasket matched intake runners, obx headers, 2.5" custom exhaust and a custom ecu tune to bring it all together. I'm hoping the tune will be what gets me there, but yeah the low end probably won't be as flat, lol. Anyways, looks good man

Very cool info! I'm in the process of seeing what I can get out of a stock 3.3 with 200k km on it. I hope to get results as nice as those!

nice. i like it. simple rc circuit with a diode bridge. clever!

nice truck ^ . i love it!

the dishes in the vg33e pistons are massive. im sure theres quite a bit of room for those valves to move. i dont think vg33e is even an interference motor... if it is i think its semi interference... i doubt they would touch at all even rotating the crank with no timing belt attached. a vg30e on the other hand i would not do that with..

Aw man that's a bummer... maybe the fitting on the end of the line is not correctly clamped on?? Went to visit my truck to inspect what I have to replace on the frame..... went over it thoroughly and its all solid but one area above the passenger rear wheel. Right in front of the panhard mount cap on the outside of the frame. The underside is shot but the upper 60% of the frame is solid and thick. So I'm going to cut off the panhard mount cap and replace a u shaped section on the bottom of the frame for about 5" section. Not too worried about structure as the top majority of the frame is still solid. I'll POR15 it all after and should last me another 2 decades

Yeah don't forget to check the fusible links off the positive battery terminal. Corrosion or loose connections there will do what you described.

i would re-set the distributor if it were me. it shouldnt be fully adjusted in one direction... it should sit somewhere near the middle of its throw when the timing is adjusted properly. (I believe its still 15 btdc on vg33e distributor but don`t quote me, check for yourself) set the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke for cylinder 1. you can then remove the distributor and re-clock it back to its lined up position. there should be 2 markers on the side of the distributor for you to line it up before you slide it back in, may take a try or two to get it in on the right tooth, but it should sit closer to the center of the bolts adjustment when timing is set. (make sure you use a timing light) it is likely they got it off a tooth if it looks new yet is adjusted all the way counter clock wise. i wouldnt be surprised by that at all.. other than that you can check the condition of all your electrical connectors and engine grounds, your tune up items, etc... but i would reclock the distributor first if it were me. eliminate anything you are doubting that would be a free fix first... then start moving to replacing things. theres a really good guide in the factory service manual on how to re-set your distributor. make sure when you check the timing after that you can get it perfectly in spec while still having adjustment in both directions.