WarehouseRat

any chance you can come up with templates

just be sure you dont burn of the new paint lol really easy to do you could even wet sand with 2000 grit and buff it back make sure you use a sanding sponge if you wet sand it other wise you will put groves in the paint from your fingers pressing on the sand paper

it only show images to members just like npora

^ more bad brake advice, bleeding will not help the m/c if its failing, perform the bleed by test on the m/c like i posted if there is no bubbles, then move on to bleeding the system rr-lr-rf-lf in that order,wanna know how much water is in the fluid dip a test strip in if it good then leave it

actually saw one last friday it was a suburban and it looked like ass but thats just my opinion, too each there own i guess, for what it cost i would paint my rig instead

its stock specs kinda speak for them self, op needs to decide what size tire he is going to run then crunch the numbers to figure out what gears he needs if its 33's leave it be, if its 35's well then you need to do the math, this thread should be moved out of the custom fab section and put in to the general tech section

washing doesnt stop rust, sandpaper and new paint will though it to like the look of the tag/kma bumper i found a old warn winch bumper on my way up to mt st helens yesterday, the guy would sell it damn truck looked like it hadnt moved in 10 years

take the torque to 28ft lbs ftw

^ no images no go

minus the ecu a turbo kit would be easy to built for less them a 1k, just need to know what, were, who, how and pull up craiglist and look for a good used turbo, ebay piping kit a bar and plate IC, bov, wg, fab time, do not let people discourage you and what you wanna do you can turbo either engine, vg30e block has a high nickle content which means it strong as hell, the vg33 only makes better power due to intake and head being designed differently, i say throw some forged rods get the heads ported , get the intake extrude honed, high volume oil pump, head studs, knife edge the crankshaft, deburr the whole block of all casing flaws, gt35 turbo, tune the @!*% out of it too 20lbs of boost

post up a few pics or the carb

look 100% better wait a few months for the paint to get really hard and buff it out and i bet you couldnt see it at all

i second the d-rings, i would box the ends in under the the fender cuts, i really like the design, should have made template patterns of all the pieces and sell them to the other members for a easy buck lol

brake fluid takes awhile to cool down, a few pedal application wont make it colder only hotter yet, its not air in the brake lines either lol it dosnt just appear in a sealed system if there is air in the lines anywere there is a seal out ie wheel cyclinder or caliper, or at any line junction, tall tell, sign a puddle of brake fluid or a wettness around any brake equipment, easiest test have some one pump the pedal with the engine off and look in the fluid res for tiny air bubbles if there is any the m/c is goin out giving bad brake advice can lead to a person dying

not really its a wow factor mostly, "look at me i got projectors" i have retrofitted projectors from a lexus in to honda accord housings and the light pattern was more defined and brighter is all i noticed

you can get the euro housings and a good quality hid conversion kit and your set just besure to adjust on a dark road to check the light pattern

felpro will work just fine

lol koyo makes the oem radiators so i see no improvement, unless its a full aluminum unit

i have euro h4 conversion housings you can find them herehousings, i notice nothing as far as a power draw when i have the high beams on

checking with a gauge wount tell him if the sensor is bad which is why you test the switch first. To my knowledge there are three types of oil pressure sending unit. The first is the oldest, and is nothing more than a port in the output side of the oil pump/engine oil gallery [passages] system, to which a tube is attached connecting the output to a mechanical guage on the instrument panel. The next type is a screw-in device which has a diaphram or a transducer which is attached to an electromechanical switch and by wire is connected to a light in the instrument panel. This is commonly refered to as an "Idiot Light." The sending unit is calabrated to turn the switch/electrical current/light on when the oil pressure is below a safe level for continued operation. As the oil pressure is generally directly proportional the engine RPM [revolutions per minute], the light tends to come on at very low idle speeds, and go out as RPM increases. The third type is similar to the second type, except that it's electrical voltage output is directly proportional to the actual oil pressure, and when fed to an instrument panel electrical guage, will indicate the relative oil pressure [low, medium, high, and pressures in between. Like I said test the sending unit, if its good then you most likely need a oil pump or your pickup tube may be clogged, remember k.i.s.s, easier to test and replace oil sending unit then to pull the oil pan or the pump

i have not found any projector housing for the pathy you can get the euro clear housings and run a hid system, blinding others is a matter of adjustment, i run hella 125watt off road bulbs in my housings, 125watt low beam 155watt high beam, its a night and day difference almost as bright as hids

only balls you can lose are your's lol

ground the switch out and see if the light goes out if it does then the sensor is good, and you most likely need a oil pump

metal or plastic, both are available for the pathy, so no custom radiator fab is needed.

manual swap comin soon lol