Towncivilian

All but P0400 are rear O2 sensor codes - both are throwing codes. They will not affect your fuel economy, but they will affect your ability to pass emissions testing. Purchase these two O2 sensors and replace yours to fix these codes. Bosch 13257 (downstream left) Bosch 13264 (downstream right) Bosch is the original OE manufacturer. Use a 5% off RockAuto discount code before ordering (enter it in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" box in the shopping cart). You'll need a 22mm or 7/8" oxygen sensor socket for removal of the O2 sensors. P0400 is EGR function (close). Try cleaning your EGR valve and ensuring none of its hoses are clogged.

That would be your clock spring (aka spiral cable) that snapped. Does your horn work? How about cruise control?

It'd be a good idea to check your engine oil level at every gas fill up and top off if required. If your oil consumption is excessive (more than 1 quart per 1000 miles), change your PCV valve and check for leaks.

It's free here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/ Don't pay for it!

Stock NGK BKR5E-11 plugs only I'd say. Any spark plug wire set from a reputable manufacturer (NTK, Beck/Arnley, Denso, AC Delco, Standard Motor Products) should work well. RockAuto is probably the cheapest place to obtain these, or possibly Advance Auto Parts if ordered online with discount code.

I'll try to poke around in FAST and identify the "changeover month" between 1999.5 and 2000 model years.

You can get pretty good deals on batteries if you order online from Advance Auto and pick-up in store. CCABIN is $40 off $100. Just make sure you get the "freshest" battery off the shelf if you can, find the one with the newest date code sticker. I don't recall who makes AAP's batteries. I've had an Interstate battery for a couple years now and it's been fine. I might go with an AAP battery when this one needs replacement.

That is odd. The main driveshaft's grease fitting will be toward the transmission end. Feel around the entire shaft (god that sounds bad) to try to find the grease fitting. I've never greased a front driveshaft since my Pathfinder is 2WD, so I'm not sure where exactly the grease fitting on that one is.

A 5W30 would be preferable in your cold climate especially during the winter months. A 10W30 or 10W40 would be acceptable as well.

The FSM says the proper antifreeze to water ratio is 50/50, go with that. Stick with 5W or 0W-30 engine oil for better cold flow and use a filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve (Purolator PureONE, Wix/Napa Gold, Bosch Premium or DistancePlus, Fram Ultra are great options), maybe switch your diff(s) to 75W-90 synthetic. Also change out your power steering fluid to a synthetic ATF which will have better cold weather performance.

Hah. This was my fan when I cleaned it about a year and a half ago; it's never been cleaned prior.

Higher mileage does not necessitate use of thicker oil. Use 10W30 heavy duty engine oil like Rotella if available, or any 5W30 or 10W30 passenger car motor oil. A 50 weight 'hot' oil is excessively thick in my opinion.

Why such thick oil? Sure, it's hot in Brazil, but the engine's cooling system will generally keep the average oil temperature around the same, thus eliminating any potential benefits of a thicker engine oil in terms of heat dissipation. A 5W-30, which is what is preferred in the service manual and likely your owner's manual, will certainly suffice and will warm up to operating temperature faster, and the oil pump won't work as hard to pump the oil. Even a 10W-30 or 10W-40 if 5W-30 is unavailable in your area would be a better choice.

If it is intake carbon deposits, you can use something like Amsoil Power Foam, Seafoam Deep Creep, or even hot water (sucked in very carefully through a vacuum line to prevent hydrolock) to clean out the deposits from the intake. Be sure to follow all instructions if you use something like the former two options. My VQ35DE has loud injector ticking at idle, but I believe that's characteristic of the VQ35.

Naturally, the grease fittings rotate with the driveshaft. You may need to move the vehicle a few feet to get the fittings to be in an accessible location. See this thread for cabin air filter replacement.

Are you sure it isn't injector ticking? Use a long handled screwdriver to act as a stethoscope to listen and try to pinpoint the noise. What oil & filter do you typically use?

Yeah, they get slack in them after 10 years or so. Mechanical TBs only obviously.

Don't forget to change power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, fuel filter, and the cabin air filter. Grease the driveshafts every oil change with any NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base grease containing molybdenum disulphide. Valvoline SynPower is commonly available at many auto parts stores and is a great synthetic grease that contains moly. Adjust accelerator and cruise wires. See page FE-3 and EL-194 of the factory service manual, respectively, for instructions. Also, download a copy of the factory service manual. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate.

I assume your buddy's newer Pathfinder is an R51 (2005 - 2012) in which case it probably would have an instant MPG readout along with some other stuff in the odometer display. You can't retrofit this to an R50. The closest you'll get is a Scangauge.

The cluster year must match if swapping parts or entire clusters on R50s. Vehicle mileage is stored in the cluster. No R50 has temp/mpg in the cluster. Outside temp and compass on overhead console is an option you can retrofit.

I misread and thought you were getting rid of the cats too, my bad.

Resonators. Does deleting cats really "free up" anything? The ECU expects those cats there and performance probably wouldn't increase if they were removed, I would think. You'll also get a constant CEL.

Do you have a manual or auto trans? Every fluid except brake is pretty much drain & fill. Most instructions are in the maintenance section of the FSM. For brake fluid, be sure to follow the bleeding order: 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake Cabin filter guide Fuel filter guide Also adjust your throttle & cruise wires; see FE-3 and , respectively

I guess I was lucky, mine have no axial play and my bearings seem fine so far. But yes, the procedure in the FSM is very confusing and convoluted.

Try impossible - unibody design. Subframe drop or suspension lift only.