88pathoffroad

Stereo wiring is easy. Use a test light or voltmeter to find your 12V+ and a ground, then find the speaker wires and go from there. Twist the light(illumination/dimmer) wire from the new stereo together with the 12V+ wire and never worry about it again.

I put it up as a ha-ha kinda thing, don't get all y'alls panties in a twist. Doesn't Pezzy do good work though? I'll switch it out and we'll have Pathfinders up there, I was just messing around. RedPath88: Good work! The "T" looks funky in that font and I don't really dig the fog over the Pathy pics, though. How about we come up with new ones every so often and we switch back and forth? Variety is the spice of life!

Keep the ideas rolling, it's not over yet. Maybe something a bit wider? How's the leaf header look to everyone so far? My monitor's set at 1280x1024 and it looks short, but it's a fairly wide monitor.

I like it! *steals*

What'd be cool is if you could find a good aftermarket dampener and machine the pulleys to fit over it, but I don't know how much weight that would save or how economical it would be. I seem to remember aftermarket balancers being around $125.

In that case, swap away.

So...you're anticipating removing your harmonic balancer and replacing it with just a solid aluminum pulley? The crank will shake itself to death, won't it?

Master cylinder's probably shot. You could try bleeding all the brake lines first, though.

Nope, they're the same from 87-95. And the ECU will be fine as long as you swap all the FI components over onto the "new" engine.

There are updates available for the freebie version, search on Invisionize.com's website. I'd install them myself on THIS forum if I had FTP access.

Here's how I fixed Rami's shifter after the body lift: Excuse the semi-crap welds, the shifter is solid bar stock and the sleeve I welded on is about 3mm thick...I used an old UCA bushing sleeve!

Old, old, old picture, but hey.

Mine does that on cruise too, actually. Pain in the ass...

The exhaust may be resonating along with engine RPM's due to too few mounting points. If it's attached in the middle and at both ends, it may not do that anymore. Check your muffler mounts and wiggle the exhaust to make sure it's not too loose.

That's your user info area, not the signature area. Everyone has a Warning level indicator. If someone misbehaves, a mod or admin will give you a warning and the level will go up 20% at a time. 5 warnings and you can't post any more.

I pressure wash every external part I can get to. On top, underneath, and inside the wheelwells, inside the frame, as much as I can reach of the trans/t-case...and I use a lot of degreaser when I do it. That's the key. Keeping your shxt clean is just as important as maintaining the engine, cause what if you break something and can't get any bolts off due to rust or mud? It's never fun to work on a completely grimy dirt-encrusted vehicle.

It depends. Will the car require extensive maintenance to keep you going down the road, or is it in poor shape? The costs to rebuild a trans are high, plus if it does go on you you'll have quite a bit of downtime with NO vehicle whatsoever... Whatever makes you happy and works. I like all my cars and don't want to get rid of any of them, but practicality rules and there comes a time when having two cars just doesn't make sense, monetarily speaking.

The 89 is FI as well, it is throttle body injected. No carb on any US models.

RockAuto has a good reputation as far as I've seen.

The lenses are glued or heat-welded together, all you're going to do is break it if you try to pry it apart.

Pressure wash it and then give it a smell test.

Probably a discombobulated linkage piece or stuck blend door, yeah. That sort of thing you have to take apart the dash to find and fix, there's no simple common cause for it.

Clear HB lights are all over Ebay if you look. They're fairly cheap, too.

The most common cause for that is a torn or missing rubber boot that covers the shifter holes. Heat then comes into the cab through the hole from the engine compartment. Unsnap the leather cover and have a look underneath...

Use a Philips screwdriver and turn the headlight adjuster screws to adjust them. Look around the grille trim from the front for the screws at the top and on the side.