88pathoffroad

4.061 for a 4WD with the FS5R30A, which is the regular V6 transmission. 4.061 2.357 1.490 1.000 0.862 Reverse: 4.125

EVer seen what happens when you're driving down the road and a BJ fails? The wheel goes to a funny angle and then you go into the ditch. At that point, you hope to God the brake line doesn't rip off and you can stop it without running over the lady jogging with her one-year-old in a stroller on the sidewalk.

Ah. That's what I thought. They're usually not necessary, are they? I hardly ever see stock-type rigs with one. A lot of rock-crawlers have them, though. *shrug*

Clutch judder? Try taking off in third gear. If it slips and then keeps going without killing the engine, your clutch is slipping and probably needs replacement...

I would have whoever replaced your pinion take another look at it. The spider gears may be screwed up somehow, that's all I can think of that would make noise when turning.

What, a front end bar that keeps the truck out of holes if you accidentally dip into one?

Steering stops need grease.

WTH is a stinger?

The axles themselves are a different spline count also, if I'm not totally mistaken. You need a 87-90 Pathy or HB rear diff to match your stock gearing and axles.

Nope. New hubs bolt right on after you take off the stock auto hubs. Who told you that, anyway?

wtf...? IMHO, the idler arm side needs reinforcement with a frame-mounted brace at least. I've bent the idler pivot before without a brace.

14mm x 1.5 thread pitch x 60mm long total length is stock. I found 70mm long replacements for my Pathy at a farm and tractor supply store for about $5 each. Large metric bolts are hard to find. I can get some more if you can't find any locally. Let me know.

Point of contention: there are at least 8 different coil springs used on the JGC's. You need to get the ones that have at least .54 or .56" wire diameter. Mine are the .58" coils and I got 3" of lift easy. Stock Pathy coils are .50".

Uh-oh. That may be your problem...maybe ask them over at AC why it can't be aligned? Their UCA's are notoriously difficult to work with.

I'd simply find another shop for alignment. Rear frame rust has exactly ZERO to do with front end alignment unless they want to do a four-wheel alignment, and unless the frame rust is causing suspension parts to move or come OFF. BJ, CV's, hubs, those are all-in-one-day jobs. BTW, how do you "adjust" hubs??? Your issues are all simple maintenance items aside from the rust. Do each thing one at a time and it will be fine IMHO. Get some rust-converting spray, pressure wash the rusty areas and treat them with the spray, then paint over them with Rustoleum. I think you could let it be for the time being until you can get the holes fixed. They're obviously not going to affect anything but looks at this point.

Depends on what tires you have, I guess. My Swampers run at about 24-26 on the street.

Honda manual transmissions use 10-30 engine oil. Just a side note.

Is your Pathy stock? Info, please.

There are no "chips" per se, you have to send in your ECU to be re-chipped. The ROM with all the data on it is soldered to the motherboard inside.

They make all the way up to 6:1, IIRC. I had a pic of the NISMO catalog of available gears for the H233B around here somewhere, I just dunno where.

Define "change the upholstery". Do you want new carpet and seat covers?

My laptop is a Compaq and the motherboard battery has died. It doesn't remember login info and PW's anymore, and the clock will actually tick backwards every once in a while if you watch the second hand. It's amazing. I tried taking it apart to replace the battery but that damn case will NOT come apart enough for me to get in there. The Compaq guys must have a case splitter tool or something. That reminds me, I should look into getting replacement batteries for the battery on that thing...it lasts about an hour when it's not plugged in...

33's with 4.6's is bad enough. I need more like 5:13's to get stock power back out of mine as it sits.

I made a bracket for the upper end of the panhard rod to lower it about 3". I wasn't using design software or anything, I just eyeballed it and welded it up. It needed that.

Good pics! *jealous*