88pathoffroad

RS5118 is the stock rear shock number. A5116 is about 1"longer. The stock replacement centerlink from MOOG is about $140, I got mine from a local offroad shop. The centerlink for a 4WD HB is the exact same, but it was cheaper by about $30. Go figure. I have a HB centerlink on my Pathy. It's not burlier or better than a stock part, but is IS cheaper. The deal with the L&P centerlink is that they modify a stock centerlink, which isn't cheap to begin with, as you can tell. They can't just go out and buy a bunch of stock CL's, mod them and then sell them for cheap.

It's entirely possible that one of the cams could be one tooth off, or that the crank gear could be one tooth off, which would make both the cams one tooth off. The crank gear is supposed to have a matchmark on the timing cover, but most don't. You need to check for TDC on the #1 piston manually either by sight or by using something to put down the spark plug hole, then turning the crankshaft back and forth to determine exactly where #1 TDC is. I should know, I made the same mistake the first time I changed my t-belt.

The torsion bars max out when they max out at the adjuster. If you can't crank them up anymore, then re-indexing is required. The number of turns on the adjuster bolt aren't as important as the overall ride height, in any case.

Wheel bearing maybe?

A 3" body lift is cheapest. Building your own suspension lift is cheaper, but not quite as good as a made-to-order kit.

I used fuel hose on mine and it's still holding up fine after 3-4 years. It's not pressurized, for cryin out loud.

Dexron II/III is fine. The Nissan fluid is the same stuff with a different label.

I've driven my Pathy into the ocean to the point it floated a little bit, and it still works fine.

Sounds like you may need to visit the transmission shop. From what I've seen so far, losing reverse seems to be the first sign that your transmission is failing.

The 2WD is easier to work on than the 4WD. Like I already said, just drop the transmission, change it out and put it back together. No need to remove the engine. I dunno who told you that was even an option...

I think it takes 20 ignition on-off cycles without a repeated error code for the light to go off. Try that.

You can't weld spring steel and have it hold up like that. There's not enough joint surface area to support both the weight of the vehicle and the constant movement they're meant to endure. The best you can do is add spring spacers and heat and reshape the top coil of the JGC spring so it's not a pigtail. I tried longer springs off a Ford Aerostar, they were about 18.5" long and it was tough to get them in there, but the spring rate was so low the top four or five coils compressed together and didn't give any lift. It's more a matter of getting the proper length and spring rate in the spring you want to use than it is modifying what's already been tried.

Oh boy, that'd be loud. You'd hate it after about five minutes of listening to it. I've run mine with only the front exhaust and cat, nothing else, and it was horrible. Gave me a headache. Didn't add much for horsepower, it was just really loud.

I like my Bumper Thumper. If you can find one, that's a good one.

I made mine from a set of $7 mud flaps and some self-tapping screws. How much did you pay for yours?

I fixed the poll and added an option.

You just need to take out the transmission/t-case(if it's 4WD) to change out the clutch and throwout bearing.

Yep. A hot sweet smell is burning or evaporating antifreeze. It was probably just evaporating out of the cracks in the radiator and body from when you drained and refilled it.

Yup. The oil change place got a little heavy on the grease, that's all.

Judging from the pics, his roof rack is mounted to doorsill towers for a standard aftermarket roof rack system like Thule or Yakima. Lookin' good, Statikuz! Now all you need is some burly-arse tires and nice alloy wheels.

Um, 20" tires would be very small indeed. I hope you're talking about wheels instead.

Mine pulls about 25 amps to start up, then about 10-12 to run on low speed...then 15-18 amps to run on high speed. I'd say the more CFM the merrier, cooling the radiator is harder than heating it up.

No such thing. My amp is mounted to the wall in the cargo area and the sub takes up most of the room in the back, along with my boxes of tools, offroad recovery gear and stuff...

People have their studs replaced all the time. I'd find a different shop.

Flexfans are $40, buy an spacer/adapter for $20 to go with it and you're set...