88pathoffroad

Shoot, man. Here's one for $29.99 on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33661

The oil filter has an anti-drainback valve in it that prevents most of the oil from going back into the oilpan when the engine's turned off anyway. The amount of oil returned to the pan from any additional remote mount parts is negligible. You're reading way too much into it. Just fill it up, run it, top it off and call it good. On another note, I'm going to start poking around some junkyard Fords and see if any have any kind of 90 degree adapters on them stock...may be able to use one of those and a bit of hose to make my own remote for real cheap.

Bigger is better. I have two 11x7.5x.5 tranny coolers installed on mine from a couple of junkyard Ford Exploders with the tow package. Cost me all of $5 each and ten minutes to get from the junkyard. Then, $5 worth of fuel hose, hose clamps, zipties and a bit of rubber (for spacing the coolers off the radiator) later, and I had dual coolers running just fine.

Yes, there's a special socket for that. It's spendy. I hear the Chevy 4WD front axle hub socket works if you mod it a little, and it's not too costly. You might measure and see...

No, the 96-up Pathys don't have hubs, they have drive flanges. Must be something sticking inside the t-case or in the shifter linkage. Changed the fluids lately?

...and if you pulled the dipstick at that point, it would indicate that the oil level was low, therefore you would need to add more until it indicates a full level, right? Nobody's suggesting increasing the oil capacity of the system and then running the same amount of oil, man. It's pretty plain that you would run an additional amount of oil to match the new equipment's capacity. Oil filters are pretty tough critters, they're exposed to water, mud, sticks and rocks in the stock location anyway. If I get the kit, I'll be putting mine in the front of the fenderwell. Easy access, easy to stick a drain pan underneath...etc. If it looks like things are getting hairy around the remote filter, I'll make something out of rubber to go around it for protection. No biggie.

Heh. You should've gotten a junkyard taillight instead of just the lens cover...the factory cover is glued/sealed to the body of the light. You'll have to take the whole light out, heat it up and pry the broken cover off, then use an appropriate adhesive to glue the new cover onto the light body. Lot of work...hopefully it keeps rainwater out when you're done...

Your Pathfinder has drive flanges instead of hubs anyway, so the front axles are always spinning in any case. Perhaps a sensor on the t-case is getting fidgety and should be looked at. Checked the fluid levels recently as well?

You might mention that the kit costs $45.80 plus ship from Summit or $45.99 from Jeg's, and is the exact same kit that 4x4parts.com sells for $59.95 plus ship. Now you can use a Ford PH8A(Fram part #) one-quart filter! Do away with your wimpy Nissan filter. More oil capacity, better filtering capacity, better cooling.

A generic 3" cone filter and a MAF adapter would be a good start. A stock replacement K&N filter is a bit easier, though.

Not entirely sure, but I think you need to stop when going back to 2WD to allow the t-case to disengage. If you just keep moving, it doesn't get a chance to.

Yeah, you can leave that off if you want. It's a condenser for the alternator to reduce RFI noise. That's it.

They're here!!! SO BURLY! I LOVE THEM! *petpetpet* By the way, the prices have gone up. Now the best deal is on a 2" x 20' strap for $19.99. I might buy one now, cause I have two 30' straps.....but no 20' ones...hehehe

If you haven't installed an external tranny cooler and bypassed the stock one yet, do it. You may save your tranny's life.

Or maybe you just need to turn up the stereo and quit bitchin' about noisy fans...

Painful? Dangerous? My butt. I've seen Geo Metro's with misaimed lights more painful than any HID setup.

I'm inclined to say fuel filter and perhaps it needs an ignition tune-up.

Either Thorleys or Pacesetters will work, evidently. Those are your only choices anyway.

Heh. No cables to change, just some hoses to modify and perhaps lowering your radiator to stay at the same level as the engine...then you get to mess with the front bumper relocating brackets... You'll just need a standard socket set, wrenches and perhaps an impact wrench would be good to have...hehe.

Well, you can install an HID kit, but you'll only have low beam headlights from then on. HID's only run at one light level. Plus, the reflectors inside your headlights aren't made to use the kind of light those put out very well. It might look cool, but there are quite a few drawbacks.

Do you have the tools to do the job?

Summit and Jeg's are both good. So is 4WheelParts.com. JWT is dependable, and Stillen, as far as I know. 4x4parts.com is another source, but I don't recommend them. Bad customer service and shoddy in-house parts. There's no particular one-and-only provider of Pathy parts, you have to peck and hunt to find anything usually.

If the heads are off already, do some light P&P anyway. It doesn't take much work to improve the heads and intake, aluminum heads are really easy to work on, and the rewards will outweigh the price of abrasives, etc... I would.

Mine are on the way! Can't wait!

When the torque converter is locked, the fluid coupling and the drive coupling are spinning at the same speed and it will not slip. It will only lock up when at a constant speed at part-throttle in 3rd gear. When it's unlocked, the fluid coupling and the drive coupling inside the torque converter spin at different speeds, the fluid takes up the difference in speeds and allows the transmission to shift gears up and down. If the converter were locked fulltime, it would jerk badly when you upshifted or downshifted.