88pathoffroad

Yep, I'd recommend removing the window entirely so you can work on it flat. All it takes is four screws for the hinges, then remove the latch and you've got flat glass to work on.

I think so, but the arc-shaped linkage that limits how far the lid opens might be different. I've seen one guy take a Jeep Grand Cherokee center console and make it fit in his 90+ Pathy. EricMenze has a 99 console in his '92. I guess if you remove your stock console, get a different one, and can make it fit, whatever floats your boat will be good.

There's nothing inside, it's just a connector. Simple plastic.

If you can find the replacement split CV boot kits and that's what you really want to do, then go ahead. It's more of a PITA to get the grease in there and you really won't be able to make sure the old dirt and grit-contaminated grease is all cleaned out of the joints, though. Those things aren't supposed to be a permanent fix...

Rockauto.com has some good prices on some things, but high prices on some other stuff. Take a look, I guess. You can wait a while on the shocks and struts unless it really causes driveability problems, so there's something you don't really HAVE to do right now. The CV's and bearings are a priority, then the trailing arm bushings, then the shocks and struts.

Yes, go ahead and cut the wires off, crimp or solder new ring terminals on the ends of the fusible links and attach them to the battery terminal. Mine are done like that and it works just fine. You can throw the black connector box away.

Mine does that too, generally above 2500 feet or so. There's no altitude compensation system on these things, I swear. Makes me wish I could manually adjust the FI map so it'd run right, heh.

Lots of Pathfinders came stock with 31's. The speedometer should be fine. Mine has 33's and it's only off by +4 MPH at 65. There's no way for a novice to calibrate the speedo, no.

Define "the performance chips", please... Actually, there's no such thing for a 87-95 Pathfinder. You have to remove the whole ECU, send it in and wait for them to upgrade it and send it back to you. Jim Wolf Technologies is the only company that does this upgrade for Pathfinders.

Throttle position sensor or mass airflow sensor. Run the ECU error codes and see what comes up, if anything.

NONONONO Pathys take 3.5 - 4 quarts! You overfilled it by half a gallon! No wonder it's spewing oil and burning it!

Calmini, stock shocks work OK, but longer rear shocks would be good to have, and no.

Manifold tick, gear position indicator lights on dash don't work, hatchback window struts getting saggy. Um. I need to replace the hatch lock and the driver's side door lock cause somebody tried opening them with a screwdriver, which jacked up the little flap that keeps water and dirt out, so now the locks are getting tough to turn... That's about it. I've fixed everything else.

The obvious answer is to get under there, see where it's leaking from and then determine if the fluid level of the leaking equipment is low. Some leaking seals are tough to replace, some aren't. It's wierd that it would leak, and then not leak, and then leak again. Any special conditions you went through before you noticed the smoke?

Then perhaps it wasn't the bulbs after all, eh? Many things will crack glass, after all.

You can pick up replacement fog lights on Ebay all the time.

Oi man, you need to work on that webpage. No neon green text, please. The pixelating page transitions are really slow, too...

Better pics! Better pics! What guage sheetmetal are those? God knows I can dent anything less than 3/16 steel...

You usually don't need spring compressors, though. I had to use them on mine cause I have spring spacers top and bottom as well.

Not unless you want a lubed-up seatbelt, heh. I dunno, the retractors just seem to get old and tired after a while. I've never looked into cracking one open to see if I could wind the spring one more time or anything.

Clean the hanger surface under the belt at the top where it slides through the hanger.

Hmmm, did you mess with anything else? The coil's power transistor might do that to you. Hopefully that's not it, they're like $98 new...

Bernard, I DARE you to ATTEMPT to make a airtight intake adapter for one of these. It'll have to be a 90 degree attachment with two nuts on top or something equally silly.

Thank you for the compliments, and no, I'm not getting a swelled head. One other thing I had thoughts about was dissimilar metal corrosion/reactions...steel on aluminum doesn't go well unless it's stainless steel. We might have to think about that. Raising the axle mount is impractical for one, unstable for two. Not enough stock bracketry there to support a raised mount. That and the moment arm theory Bernard talked about... I seriously doubt anyone will be able to drop the PHRM on a rock. It's almost directly above the axle, pretty high up there, and the gas tank skidplate is also right beside there. The worst you could really do is back up into something and get hung up on it, but that'd probably happen even in stock form in the same situation.

Make sure your motor mounts are OK. A broken motor mount might do that to you. Also check the u-joints and rear driveshaft. Bad u-joints vibrate pretty badly on acceleration.