88pathoffroad

Good idea, dude. Maxie seats are SPORTY! *goes to find a good pair that haven't been thoroughly rained on*

Those are my Superlift UCA's. I haven't yet aligned it professionally cause my CL and tie rods need to be replaced first, but I've never heard about any problems with alignment on Superlift UCA's. They're specifically made for HB pickups, but they fit Pathfinders perfectly fine. They run about $250 a pair. You can get them from any number of places, do a search with Google or any other search engine and you'll find places that sell them.

I have a Nissan FSM for 1988 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups that I can offer some factory information from if anyone has a specific question or need. Just let me know and I'll see what I can do for you. I just wanted to make it known and let everyone know that the offer stands open for anyone. Also, PLEASE, no requests for mundane things like "what spark plugs should I use" or "what size windshield wiper do I need", those things should be easily found by either searching these forums or asking/calling a local parts store. Off-topic requests will be deleted at will. Thank you. -88

I have a Nissan FSM for 1987-1989 Pathfinders and Hardbody pickups that I can offer some factory information from if anyone has a specific question or need. Just let me know and I'll see what I can do for you. I just wanted to make it known and let everyone know that the offer stands open for anyone. Also, PLEASE, no requests for mundane things like "what spark plugs should I use" or "what size windshield wiper do I need", those things should be easily found by either searching these forums, my forums at http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com or asking/calling a local parts store. Off-topic requests will be deleted at will. Thank you. -88

Very good point. Check your fan clutch for proper operation first.

The headlights are 9004's. You can run one set of 55W fog or driving lights safely on the stock setup. It's only a 60 amp alternator...

This has been discussed a million times before. Thorleys cost more, but are of MUCH higher quality and better fit than the Pacesetters. Pacesetters are cheap and poor quality, made in Mexico by children with stick-welders, apparently.

That's spelled "panel" and "screws". First unscrew the door lock cap(if so equipped), then unscrew the armrest(there ARE screws in there, man), remove that, take out the doorlatch release handle cup screw and remove that and it's trim. If you have manual windows remove the window crank handle. By now you should have a bare door panel. The rest of it is held on with plastic clips from behind. Use a wide-bladed screwdriver or panel removal tool to carefully pop the clips off. Then lift up a bit on the panel and shuffle it back and forth to loosen it all up, and it'll come off. You'll see your speaker after it's off.

I predict those turbo parts will be for sale by Airrun soon after he buys them...

Because nobody makes parts for putting a turbo into a Pathfinder. Stock 300ZX parts were not made to fit into a Pathfinder engine bay. You're going to have to have anything you need (that you don't have already) fabricated totally by hand one at a time. Example...turbo exhaust manifolds...intake piping...exhaust wastegate piping(if it's not an integrated wastegate)...blow-off valve...exhaust downpipe and cat(if under emissions requirements)...fuel management system...boost controller...the list goes on.

I believe it has three wires.

Good luck! I hope you have a lot of money! hehe

Depending on which tooth was off, it'd have a noticeable loss of power, terrible gas mileage and slightly rough idle.

By the way, that's spelled "flare" and "spare".

Monroes aren't really any better than stock shocks. Go with KYB, Rancho or Bilstein for some REAL shocks that'll take some abuse.

My take on the cause of the problem is a failing or failed driver's side power lock solenoid. If it were to unlock but then somehow stay lock-tensioned internally so as to re-lock itself, it'd do that sort of thing. Imagine a spring attached to the lock linkage somehow, keeping the door locked. When you hit the button to unlock it, the solenoid would have enough force to push the linkage/lock up, but then the spring would immediately pull it back down, which would re-lock ALL the doors, cause the driver's lock locks them all, right? That's the sort of thing I'm getting at. I'm not saying there are springs inside the door, but something in there just might work that way somehow, either in the lock linkage itself or inside the solenoid. Anyone tried just replacing the driver's side solenoid?

Did you even LOOK before asking? Sheesh, this is such simple stuff. Takes a Philips head screwdriver or 10mm wrench/socket. Go look for yourself.

It's all in the wiring and following the instructions, bro... Aftermarket lock solenoids are cheap and easy to install. It just takes time and the effort of running the new wiring for it...

All that'll do is squash the bushing sleeves. I do believe what you're dealing with here is a direct result of driving a lifted modified IFS Pathfinder. No way around it. It's not stock anymore, man...

Watch Ebay for one. A book for an 88 or 89 will also cover the exact same things for your 87. Otherwise you'll be paying about $150 for one...

I'll look it up tomorrow, I'm heading on out to an electronics parts supplier store in the morning before work. If they're real cheap and easy to get ahold of, I'll buy a bunch of them and sell 'em back to anyone that needs one as a complete stock replacement, soldered with the same color wires and terminals and everything. I'm not out to make profits here, just to help people.

Oh, darn. Sorry, I didn't realize.

I use a freebie version of ACDSee's photoeditor program. You can also edit photos in MS Paint, which comes with all versions of MS Windows.

OOOOOHHHHHHH I see. Maybe try jacking the body up more in the rear and hacksawing the bolt off, then taking out the body isolator so you can grab the whole thing with vise-grips and unscrew it? I dunno. Good job!