88pathoffroad

Yeah, 3" is too big. A 2.25" or 2.5" single in-out muffler will do just as well, you just won't have two exhaust tips.

Hehehehe, you got plagued by frogs. Yep, I usually poke the bottom of puddles with a long stick before attempting driving into them...it keeps the engine running and expensive repairs away.

Another problem I've recently been made aware of is lack of proper electrical grounding between frame, battery and drivetrain. The transmission has electronically-controlled solenoids inside. If the ground points on the motor or tranny are poor, the solenoids won't be able to do their job very well. Make sure your Pathy is grounded together for best operation.

Make sure all parts are in perfect working order, give it a tune-up, oil change, new air filter, fuel filter and make sure your tires are at the proper pressure.

5000's aren't that bad. I drive around with my 9000's set at "4", usually. "3" if you want a cushier ride. *shrug*

Now now, you can't count on everyone to have the time, inclination, and tools to make such response posts. Some people simply don't have a digital camera or a way to post pics. Just calm down, don't worry about it. If it happens, it happens.

These instructions are for a 86.5-89 with the VG30i: The MAF sensor is on the driver's side of the TBI under the air cleaner. It has three screws holding it on. Unplug the wiring harness first, then unscrew the screws and pull the sensor directly outward. It has a stem that projects about 1.25" into the TBI, be careful not to damage the heater wires on the tip of the MAF sensor or you'll need a new one. These heater wires are what makes the dammn thing work. Now, clean the little wires and the entire tip very carefully with Q-tips soaked in rubbing alcohol, then put the sensor back on. Done! These instructions are for any Pathy: The O2 sensor is located under the driver's seat on the main exhaust pipe after the y-pipe, pointing upwards and toward the passenger's side. It has three wires coming out of it that go up over the transmission and over to the passenger's side. Mine took a 18mm wrench to get it off. You can remove it without unplugging it if you're careful to not twist the hell out of the wires. After it's unscrewed, let it hang down under your Pathy and use the propane torch to heat the tip of the sensor. Just heat it until it glows red-hot and the blue propane flame turns reddish-orange behind the sensor. Then let it cool off a sec and hit it from another angle. Don't overheat the sensor or cook the threads, you may end up with a ruined $135 sensor. After that, let the sensor cool and eyeball it. Does the surface of the metal look clean and free of deposits? If so, you're done. If not, hit again until all the carbon burns off. Let the sensor cool. Then apply some fresh anti-sieze compound to the threads and twist the wiring up opposite of the direction that you will be screwing it in. Screw it in, reset your ECU by unplugging the "ECCS" fuse for 30 seconds, then start as usual. Let us know how it goes!

That's a wierd one...sounds like it's running in Safe Mode. Tried resetting the ECU by pulling the "ECCS" fuse for 30 seconds? Have you taken anything apart to look at it and see if anything's visibly wrong?

This was a pretty good one, I parked it on a stump after crawling over a rock that tipped over and dropped my frame onto the stump. We had to jack up one tire and stuff rocks underneath until I could reverse off the stump.

It'd be really hard to bend the whole frame by simply banging a wheel into a curb, I think your rear axle control arm bushings may be shot, control arms or something else is wrong with it. If the bolt itself is the only thing that stripped out, you can get a new set of bolts for it, if you can find them. They're 14mm x 1.5 x 50mm stock, going up to a 14 x 1.5 x 60 would solve your problems. I found mine at a local farm supply store, of all places. You might try looking at a couple of those.

Master cylinder needs some fluid, or the switch could be loose on the reservoir...

Last tank I got 16.6!! Woohoo!

I finally got around to cleaning off the MAF sensor with Q-tips and alcohol, put it back on. Then I took out my O2 sensor and used a propane torch to burn off the carbon deposits. (Be careful not to overheat the sensor, it CAN be ruined that way.) Before this, I normally got 11-12 MPG. First tank of gas after that, I got 14.7. This last tank, I got 16.6. Whoa. I've NEVER gotten 16! And I've owned my Pathy for more than five years now. Go figure. I guess when parts are clean and working properly, you get better power and gas mileage, eh? I do notice a little more power, it doesn't smell like raw gas or like it's running rich every now and then, and it starts and idles NOTICEABLY better now. I'd reccommend doing this for anyone that's getting poor mileage, it takes but a little while and has such great benefits.

I haven't had time lately to mess with the Exploder amp idea, but I'll let you know. As long as the antenna is grounded, it'll work wherever you want to put it. It's efficiency depends on placement, though. The higher you place it, the better it works. See if you can find a CB shop locally and ask them to test and tune your CB for SWR and power output if you really want it to work well.

Absolutely.

Bullcrap, it gets force-fed fresh air when the vehicle's in motion anyway. It doesn't matter on these.

Manual transmission: 4.375:1 Auto transmission: 4.625:1 Look for an orange "Use LSD Oil Only" sticker on your rear diff, or put it in neutral, jack the back end up and spin one tire. If it has a LSD, both tires will spin the same direction. if they spin opposite directions, no LSD. You can't install a regular locker in a LSD, only an open one. An ARB air locker will go into a LSD carrier, but they cost like $800-1000.

Sounds like the turbo is leaking internally. I'd get that looked at before it dies on you and requires a new turbo. They aren't cheap...

Yep, RTV silicone works fine.

They don't work. Don't waste your money on it.

True. Are you driving around with the Power button on? That'd make it shift real high. And yes, mine goes to about 3500-4000 before it shifts from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3, but it'll shift at a lower engine speed if you go easy on the gas pedal.

The Ford coils are much stiffer than the JGC coils. They're also shorter and will fall out of their socket if you flex the rear diff too far. The JGC coils or actual lift coils are really the best way to go. Stock-size Rancho 5118 shocks will work with 2-3" of lift, but 5116 shocks would be better, they're a little bit longer. 5112's work with 4" or so of lift if I remember correctly.

Use a balljoint separator or puller from an auto parts store. It'll come off with the right puller. The handbrake is adjusted underneath the vehicle in the center...there's one cable coming out of the floor going to a hanger with two rear axle cables on it, the adjuster is at the end of the single cable.

You know what, I'd do it if I thought it'd make one bit of difference. Thing is, new people rarely read the pinned topic posts before asking... It doesn't cost more, no.

Good ole' Wagon Wheels. I'm hoping to get some aluminum wheels here pretty soon, along with new tires. Cool beans, Slick.