88pathoffroad

Yeah, the Lock-Right only fits into an open carrier. You'll have to find a different centersection to put one in...and make sure it has the same kinda brakes, disc/disc, drum/drum, cause the disc brake axles are a little longer than the drum brake axles.

16" indicates the wheel size, not the tire size. What size tires do you have? It'll look just fine with 31's and a 2" BL. Just do it, don't be scared.

Because Jim changed the max avatar size a little while ago and all the big ones from before he changed it stuck instead of being forced to resize like all new submitted avatars. The new size is what there is unless Jim changes it again. Sorry.

You got it. All you have to do is ask!

There was a guy on the 4x4parts board that put a bottle on his Pathfinder. It worked just fine, he had no complaints. *shrug*

Nobody currently makes a kit. Sorry. The L&P thing is for 87-89 Pathfinders only at the moment, and that's gonna take a while to perfect so it'll even be close to reliable enough to sell as a kit. The stock bottom end will take up to 15 psi(if you make SURE you have no detonation), I'd aim a bit lower than that for reliability if I were you. The 300Z turbo doesn't fit...totally different engine bays. If you can fabricate and weld, it'd be possible to relocate the turbo but other than that, there's no way to bolt one in without some pretty major modifications.

Aha! Thanks for the clarification, Greg.

You don't really need new t-bars unless you want a nasty stiff front end ride...reindexing stock ones should work fine, mine are still stock. They flex better than aftermarket t-bars anyway. Starting from scratch on a 95, I would get: New rear springs(JGC or lift springs from an aftermarket company, coil springs are roughly the same no matter where you get them from) New front UCA's (Rough Country or Superlift, Calmini UCA's are great but spendy...$$$) New shocks all around, slightly longer than stock in the rear (Rancho 5000's for general use, Rancho 9000's for adjustability...Pro-Comp shocks work well and are pretty cheap too) Steering stabilizer (Rancho or Pro Comp) Steering system (L&P for just the centerlink and idler arm/idler arm brace, or Calmini for the high-dollar fix) More agressive tires, but not necessarily much bigger ones. I'd stick with 31's or 32's to not over-stress the steering. (You pick, it's your Pathfinder )

The oil filter has an anti-drainback valve inside that retains oil so when you start the engine it doesn't start dry. You can't get away without it. It's just a part of maintenance...oil dribbles are clean-up items. Use some Castrol purple degreaser after your new filter is on and wash the oil off afterwards with a generous hosing. Oh, and believe me, there are worse setups on some cars for both access to the filter and it's overall mess-making. On some Buick/GM cars with the FWD 3.1 or 3.8 V6, the filter's above a CV axle, under a heat shield and right beside the exhaust...

If it's attached to the power steering pump, it'll be hot no matter if it's being used or not. That's not the point. The point is, electric winches work until the battery dies regardless of whether the motor is running or not. You can also swap out batteries for a fresh charge or be jumpered by another vehicle. With the hydraulic winch, the engine HAS to be running.

93-94-95 should all be the same. 88-92 will work also but may have different speedo parts, etc.

You could try a Nissan dealership. I think pricing on those is just plain off the wall anywhere you go.

Generic acronym for Engine Control Unit. Nissan actually calls it "ECCS"... Electronic Computer Control System. I think.

If you're referring to a nitrous oxide kit, don't go much over 45-50 without adding additional fuel or retarding timing.

The CV's don't spin in 2WD, so a ripped boot on a Pathfinder isn't that big of a deal, but fixing it involves removing the axle completely, so if you're not in the mood to do that it may be a better idea for you to wrap some cellophane around it or something, heh.

They're reliable and powerful, but fairly slow compared to electric winches and if your motor bogs down or you run out of gas, it dies with the engine...

It could be that one of the the servers inline for delivery was offline for some reason when you were trying to send your email. Try again?

Lots of people here in the US are getting the updated ECU firmware free. Maybe you should try a different dealership?

Nope. The fuel injectors are controlled solely by the ECU.

Those tails are kinda cool, but still too Altezza-like to be attractive to me. *shrug* I can't believe they still make those and only offer them with the Z24 engine. Woot, 120 HP!

Sway-A-Way quit making t-bars for Pathfinders, I think. The Rough Country UCA's are the same thing as the Superlift UCA's. I have them and they work great. High-quality stuff, very decent price, they're around $120 for a pair of UCA's. Don't pay more or you're being ripped off. I'd keep the stock t-bars if you just drive on-road most of the time, they work allright. Just get stiffer shocks and you're set. Ranchos are good.

I have an entire wiring harness built and ready to go in my garage for the headlights. I bought new 9004 wiring plugs at Wal-Mart($3.99 each), pulled the connector apart, pulled the pin connectors apart and then soldered 10-gauge wires to the pin connectors so the headlights will have lots and lots of juice. I'll post pics after I get it done, I just need one more relay. I've seen a write-up with pics from some other dude who did his, and the before-and-after pics were really remarkably different. You get a much brighter light with the relays and larger wiring.

Holy crap man, your vehicle is leaking brake fluid and you're still driving it?!?? I'd get that fixed first. Just a suggestion.

http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html Power for the headlights is controlled by a switch on the dash. This is *not* a great place to tap into the system, for two reasons: The headlamp switch uses tiny, high-resistance contacts to complete circuits, and the wire lengths required to run from the battery to the dashboard and all the way out to the headlamps creates excessive resistive voltage drop, especially with the thin wires used in most factory installations. In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages: 10.5V : 510 lumens 11.0V : 597 lumens 11.5V : 695 lumens 12.0V : 803 lumens 12.5V : 923 lumens 12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage 13.0V : 1054 lumens 13.5V : 1198 lumens 14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage 14.5V : 1528 lumens The Europeans take a slightly more realistic with their voltage ratings; they consider output at 13.2v to be "100%". The loss curve is the same, though. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.54v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (11.88v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.22v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt. From the headlamp on-off switch, a single wire runs to the beam selector (high/low) switch. Two wires run from the dimmer to the front of the car: one for high beams, one for low. Here's what we have to start with: Those are long lengths of thin wire between the battery and the headlamps! Typically we find 16 gauge wire (1.5 mm2) at best, more commonly 18 gauge (1.0 mm2) and in some cases even 20 gauge (0.5 mm2). Most such circuits produce unacceptable voltage drop. For more, visit this page... http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html

By the way, the recommended change interval for a 93-95 Pathy's t-belt is 105,000 miles.