88pathoffroad

The MSD should go AFTER the power transistor and BEFORE the coil, yes. A tach adapter is needed for the tach to work. Mine isn't hooked up right now, so I couldn't take pics or tell you exactly which wires go where, but the instructions are pretty clear if you take everything into context. I'm away from home right now, but when I get home I can post a scan of my old MSD instructions. By the way, I doubt the 10 HP number, it's less than that. I'd say more like 5-7 tops.

It's on top of the transmission towards the rear of the vehicle, IIRC. It's a simple magnetic reed switch. Open, shut, open, shut...hehe

I might add: I've cleaned that K&N more than 5 times now since it was new 4-5 years ago and it still works fine.

I've had my K&N filter on for more than 45,000 miles with no problems. Most grime and dirty-looking stuff inside the intake is actually semi-dissolved gasoline and oil vapor deposits that occur after shutting off the engine. Just last weekend, I finally took off the K&N to check and clean it. The filter was almost completely caked with the abundant trail dust from Brown's Camp...and sand from Sand Lake. I swabbed the inside of my TBI with a few q-tips dipped in carb and intake cleaner....de nadda. Normal accuumulation of oil and gas deposits, that's it. Make your own conclusion, I guess.

Replace the flasher for the turn signals, then the flasher for the 4-ways. It may just be old and short-circuited.

First, don't ask people to email you free answers. It's tacky. Second, clean that thing off very thoroughly, make sure the starter's clean, the engine-to-body grounds and battery terminals are all clean and tight, and there's no white/green corrosion in the battery cables. If all of your electrical connections are fine, then the next place to look is the starter, since you said it was doing it to you before.

Exactly. Rusty bolts and dirt are your main problem, usually. I'd definitely try to get under there and pressure-wash at least the body mount points under the framerail and all. Then P'Blaster(or WD40) the crap out of those bolts before you try and get 'em off.

*snif snif* Well, at least I got to see him one more time before he went away... *cries* (he came over and said hi on his way up to WA last week)

Oh, I ran out of money. Hosting bill came due and I'm too broke to pay it right now. Anybody care to contribute toward the "Get The WD21 Forums Back Online" fund? heh

Oh yeah, I forgot to add: a decent high-flow cat can be had for about $75 and doesn't hinder performance at all.

It's best to replace the cat with a glasspack or straight pipe rather than leave it empty. An empty cat can still have old packing material inside that may come loose later and clog up your muffler. Also, an empty cat makes for poor throughput, the exhaust tends to do funny things when it blasts through piping and then hits a larger open space like the inside of an empty cat. It doesn't necessarily hurt performance, but it doesn't help any either.

Wow, that IS wierd. Usually when both those lights come on at once, it's the alternator going out on you.

Yeah! You'll get yours, k9sar...

Both my coolers are mounted that way and I've had 0 problems with air in the system. *shrug*

*click* Nice try.

*swats k9sar upside the head* Quit with teh whoring already!

Oh no you don't!

Is that a CHALLENGE???

Actually, you'll probably want to bypass the stock cooler totally. That's the main reason behind getting an external cooler. The stock ones clog up and kill your tranny.

All you have to do to find this info out is call your local tire shop. They'll be able to tell you the correct lug pattern a lot faster than it would take to look for the info here.

Please don't double post questions. One posting should be good enough.

I can't add a location to people's info with what I have on hand. It'd have to be added to the CSS or HTML page manually and I can't do that without Jim's full hosting access. Duffman: that's what the "Pinned Topics" section in the Garage is for. I'll change it and move stuff into it slowly but surely. PM me with a link to any threads you think might qualify, OK?

Most of the 87 Pathfinders came with a 3-speed auto tranny, instead of the 4-speed O/D auto tranny. The next year, they all got the 4-speed O/D tranny. Sounds like your manifold studs are shot...time to invest in some headers.

Problem is, you're pushing the limits of IFS lift by running 33" tires with only 3" or so of suspension lift. I hope you trimmed your fenders to keep 'em away from the tires. The IFS front end won't handle that much lift without breaking CV's or ruining tie rods and centerlinks left and right. There's no such thing as a dropped idler or pitman arm for Nissans, nobody makes one. About the only thing you can do to beef up your steering is get either the L&P centerlink and shear-braced idler arm for $325 or the Calmini steering system for $550.

Lemme look. This forum software has some DAMN confusing setup layering.