88pathoffroad

There are four 194 backlight bulbs that also feed light to the needles, I custom-fabbed LED's into place behind the needles in mine. The T/S bulbs are already clear, you'd have to change the green plastic arrows in front of them to make them different color.

1. The altitude kills power, no doubt. I think the slow tranny syndrome is caused by the elevation change and the way the TCU and ECU run at that elevation, depending on the condition of all then engine's other systems(EGR, exhaust, injectors, etc) it usually runs juuuust funny enough to do that. Mine bogs down pretty bad at heights over 2000-3500 and just gerts worse the higher I go. I have to rev the snot out of the motor to get it to go anywhere and it runs hot...cause it's running too lean. Lower atmospheric pressure. Less burnable atmosphere per cubic inch. I could be wrong. 2. I seem to hear a lot of tach problems from either faulty tachometers themselves or poor wiring connections...I can't remember what the final word was on that topic, but I also seem to remember people generally just taking out the gauges and replacing the tachometer at a component level to fix the problem. 3. Same as above...perhaps the gears can be looked at from a disassembled gauge cluster?

The other way around is apparently the problem, Pezzy. X wheels do not fit properly on the Pathy.

Dammit man, it's spelled "scissors". Precise my ass.

I bet his foot really was most of the way to the floor, remember how low-geared those things are...and how does slo-mo wall-crawling offroading compare to road-track racing at high speeds? :confused: Man, that Porsche took a beating. At least it rolled over the rounded roof and hood a couple of times before it impacted really hard on the rear axle like it did, that may have wasted a bit of energy and saved the driver from worse injury or something.

IIRC, it was already there when he bought it and had the wiring all run and everything as it was. Am I wrong? I guess you could cut out the part with the switches and use the rest of the box for matching material, to make your own custom box with welded corners and siliconed edges or something like that.

Ditto. I have a gauge set from a '90 about ready to go in with blue backlit LED lights and white LED-lit needles. My old ones are all orange and black and dated-looking.

I have a custom-made light bar bolted across a set of Yakima racks. To get the wiring up there, I pulled back the headliner inside and drilled a hole, then installed a grommet and ran the wires up the driver's side pillar next to the windshield. Two relays fit nicely behind the kick panel on the floor.

They're not going to take apart your lights to see how much power the bulbs consume. If they're aimed properly, you shouldn't have any problems. Using the backup light wiring to run an additional 110 watts worth of backup lights is NOT a good idea. Backup lights are only about 24W each to begin with and they didn't run big enough wiring from the factory to compensate for more power consumption, so you'll need to run a new wire from the front to the back so they have their own power feed from the battery.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about accidents or crashing unless you tend to drive it more like a car than like a truck, cause it IS a truck. It weighs over 4000 lbs. Be careful with it, that's all. The brushguard won't help much, but it sure does make nice dents on your body if a minor accident happens...after which most people take it off and toss it. I accidentally creamed the back end of an Intrepid once, the car's trunk and taillights were mushed and all that happened to my Pathfinder was a broken fog light.

The only kind of gas I can get here has 10% ethanol. All grades. *shrug*

Oh shush. Leave her alone, she's cool.

Yes, gear oil with LSD additive is fine for the front.

Now, now. If you don't have anything constructive to add, at least try to help. I think what dnodog needs is a manual for his Pathy/Terrano. You can find them on Ebay every now and then for a good price. You can also search the web for Terrano or Pathfinder enthusiast sites in your area that may be more able to help...

There are suspension angle and height measurements/specs in the FSM I have at home. I can look it up later. It's kinda complicated, though. I'll prolly just scan it for you. Give me a few days, OK?

My torsion bars need to be cranked? I can't remember if this was before or after the 1" crank, but it was before my new 31x10.50 tires... those don't rub at all. If my tires do not rub, do I still need to crank them more? I was joking. Take a look at the difference in angle between mine and yours sometime and you'll see what I mean.

ABOVE ALL ELSE: K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) Good place to start, Bernard? Simply put: keep it simple and don't start with the complicated fixes before trying the simple ones. Some idling or driveability problems are symptomatically alike but the base cause can be different. Like vaccuum line leaks or totally missing hoses versus ignition problems caused by a cracked distributor cap or arcing spark plug or wire. Also: good lighting will provide miraculous solutions to impossible problems sometimes. Sometimes simply looking at something from a different angle can solve your problems in an instant.

I haven't got that pic right now(I'm on the laptop), but I can get it for ya later. Basically, you have to shorten the bracket, drill a new hole in it, flatten a bent part in a vise, and use a few washers to space the bracket off the engine block a little and make it line up with the tensioner.

The tranny is GL-4 75W-90 ONLY and the diffs take GL-5 75W-90 or 80W-90.

Mine's welded to the frame inside the wheelwells and has a couple of easily-made strap steel brackets in front holding it up. It's solid enough to stand on. If it ever needs to come off, I can cut it off.

Try a flat-head screwdriver instead of the Philips head. A flat-head will usually work better if there's anything to hold on to left.

It shouldn't be a problem at all in a mostly-stock engine. I wouldn't worry about it.

I can tell that's a 4-door. Newer style grille and bumper. Besides that, your LCA's need more angle...(*hint: crank up t-bars)

I don't think my Pathfinder's better or worse than a Jeep. I think it's different. Take that as you may. My stepdad has a 2-door Cherokee with the 6. It works OK, but it feels loose and kinda funky to drive, suspension-wise and steering-wise. The engine has adequate power and it has enough room inside. I'd drive it for kicks if it were given to me, but I wouldn't go out and buy one, personally.

DAAAAAAYUM! Now that's some REAL clay/mud. Nice!