88pathoffroad

I wouldn't think the internal rotational mass of a M90 would be high enough to cause those sort of problems, but then again, I've never looked into it.

Yup, do a quick search for "frame rust" or "frame rot" and you'll get all you need. If it's not totally shot, you can have it patched with new steel welded in and avoid replacing the entire frame...

Probably between $25 and $50, maybe higher.

A 93-97 Quest/Villager fan also works fine with some trimming.

Just a comment...but they're not gonna be twice as bright as stock if they have the same bulb wattage, and running higher wattage bulbs on stock wiring is asking for a fire (or at the very least, melted wiring plugs) because they used really small-gauge wire for the headlights and didn't use relays.

The Calmini steering system is only useable as a complete kit. THe pitman and idler arms are totally redesigned and do not use stock parts the same way anymore.

You guys do realize those things weigh about 75 lbs, right? I don't even carry a spare unless I'm going on a trip or offroading somewhere specific.

Probably just one of those bugs they never got around to working out on the new line...

Most places in the US have no statutes or limitations on rollbars or cages with regard to seatbelt or harness anchoring points, as far as I know. The only way anyone around here would ever get in trouble for something like that is if they modified the harness or seatbelt in such a way that made it weaker than it would have been if the original anchoring points had been left alone or was done in an unsafe or negligent way, and even then it would probably just be a ticket/citation. We don't have vehicle inspections, emissions or anything extra whatsoever where I live. I can pretty much register, license and drive any vehicle that I can run long enough to drive it in so they can verify the VIN number for the paperwork.

Replace both taillight bulbs first, just to rule out both old bulbs having a popped low wattage filiment. I've had that happen to me before. Does it have trailer wiring installed in the rear? The dash dimmer switch may have gone out on you. A junkyard replacement would be the cheapest, easiest fix if possible. Otherwise, I have a few laying around I could send out for a few bucks.

It'll be fine. If I can beat the drivetrain on rocks with a locker and manual hubs in 4LO, I doubt a few instances of use in 4HI on a road surface would do much of anything at all. Just try not to do it any more than you have to, you never know when something may up and take a crap on you. Heh.

Try unplugging the O2 sensor wiring harness. It will leave the ECU/FI system in closed-loop mode and may run a little richer, but otherwise will be perfectly fine. Oh, and if it warms up and doesn't run crappy with it unplugged, then you know what comes next, heh.

The bumpers do have different mounting brackets, but they both bolt to the frame the same and have the bolts in the same place otherwise. If it's a Nissan brushguard and not a Smittybilt or Bushwacker or something else, it will likely have mounting points at the bottom that bolt to the frame where the stock tow hook is, then a second set of brackets that either bolt to the stock bumper mount outer bolt-hole, or extend through the bumper to the underlying bumper-to-frame mount bracket bolts. You don't need to heat up that bracket to straighten it out. Just use a 12" Crescent wrench and bend it back straight. It's not made of inch-thick immoveable steel, it's actually fairly easy to bend. Well, you could try not to hit anything...heh. Your point is still very valid. Most times a light impact with another vehicle, into a ditch or dirt bank, or even a post or pole can cause damage to your front end that probably wouldn't have otherwise happened if the guard weren't there. Grilleguards are basically for brushing aside small-sized branches and bushes when you're offroad, not urban obstacles like curbs, shopping carts or gas-station corner poles... Thing is, if they made it strong enough to withstand cows and deer and shopping carts, it'd weigh 500 lbs and your gas mileage would go into the garbage, along with your front-to-rear weight ratio and center/height of gravity.

Slight overreaction here...chill the hell out. Options were never set as a XE, LE, SE thing. You could extra-order or delete almost any option in any trim level. Many people evidently did. In other words, what you see is what you get when buying a used Pathy, you can't tell which options came with any given vehicle.

Reindex your stock ones and leave the money in the bank. Mine are still stock.

You're kidding me, right? OK, it's looks great if someone cut that out freehand. I just don't quite properly appreciate the design.

I'd check connections at the battery and alternator, then have the alternator's output amperage tested.

Hahahaha, that and a pressure washer, Vsicks.

Ugh. Those look terrible, IMHO. You will never (repeat, NEVER) be in any kind of situation where that rear bumper guard will do anything but cause more damage to your vehicle than if you didn't have it installed. Same for the FrontRunner guards they have on clearance.

$7.67 plus shipping at RockAuto.com... about that at my local Knecht's Auto Parts, too.

1. No. 2. Rancho's RS5000 series are shocks only, not steering stabilizers. If you try to use a regular shock for a SS, you'll be rather unhappy fairly rapidly. It's the valving for the shock, a SS should be stiff both directions, not in only one direction. 3. Rancho's are good and if you save your purchase reciept they'll replace it if anything goes wrong with it. 4. Not a thing, but they make a separate bracket kit to attach the Rancho SS, which you'll need to install one. No drilling or anything, it all bolts on. Go read the Rancho SS Install thread in the How-To forum for more info.

Rear JGC coils are a lot shorter than the fronts. You do the math and see what happens.

Sounds like the slave cylinder is leaking or the rubber line is cracked somewhere perhaps. Bleeding the clutch is simple, same as brakes. Unscrew the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, have someone press the clutch pedal slowly to the floor, then close the valve and let the pedal up. Do that several times while making sure the reservoir is staying full and you have bled your clutch system.

Yup, the MOOG bushings are rubber. Daystar, Energy Suspension and Mako all make poly bushing kits as far as I know.

Alternator's only putting out a few amps, but at good voltage. I bet a field winding wire broke somewhere inside that killed it's output. Have it tested.