88pathoffroad

I don't think they do at all... Rear springs for an R50 are 5" diameter while the springs for a WD21 are 4". Been there, seen that in the junkyard. I could be wrong on the diameter, but I remember them being distinctly larger than WD21 springs.

My bad, my bad, it was a TTB-type D44 front. Heh. That'd be a task to fit in there.

There are different components, so I would think so.

Ah, sounds like either your wiring's taken a bad turn or the sending unit inside the tank is heading south. Check the wiring on top of the tank first...that's easier than taking the SU out. The voltage regulator controls both the fuel and temp gauges, common problem if neither gauge works.

Pics? What's that convert to in miles?

Any VG30 engine from 87-95 will fit if you swap out the FI components. Maxima and 300ZX engines from the late 80's will also fit just fine, but beware of different crankshaft snout(front end) differences. Call the local junkyard. Any VG30i or VG30E will do. A VG30DE will not fit.

I found a HP D44 in a '85 Bronco at the junkyard with hubs and all, but it needs different knuckles, etc. Wonder how much they want...they quoted me $150 for a Waggy axle.

That's EXACTLY what I want to use for a SAS on mine. Bad-ass job! Looking great!

Why don't you just fix your gas gauge instead? Replacing the voltage regulator is a fairly simple job. Let me know if you need a new one, I make them for $10 shipped. Direct swap. Comes with instructions.

Try a different dealership? Ask for the service manager? Ask for a tech? They're morons if they can't look up those parts for you. The dealership near me can look up anything on the spot and price it for me.

Jeez, you knew it was low on coolant and you still drove it without checking? Ouch... The heater core might still be empty, make sure you get that puppy filled all the way up. You can bleed air out of the heater core by using the coolant bypass hose valve on top of the motor near the front.

Most of the discoloration on that engine just looks like baked-on oil. That happens to a lot of engines, mostly from not changing the oil often enough. Clean 'er up, I bet it'll work fine. Oh, and I happen to have a fuel rail with injectors in my garage that'll fit yours, Slick. I bought a box full of swap parts on Ebay a while back and it was in there along with a VG30E intake, TB, etc. Let me know if you need it...

It won't "fry your wiring" unless you hook up wires backwards. Also, check to make sure you don't need a tach adapter to get your stock tach to work with it...mine needed one. I got it direct from MSD, actually they sent it to me free cause I was having a hard time getting it to work initially.

The Epnet login still works for me.

A lot of times broken exhaust studs contribute to the noise problem...are all the studs intact on her motor?

The guys at the counter usually don't have any idea what shape the engine's in unless you get them to go look at it with you first. I'm not surprised it was missing parts. If I find another one, I'll keep you in mind hon.

It doesn't matter. I don't know why they say that.

I revise my statement to include: with no rear swaybar and longer shocks. Which you'd want if you're into offroading... With the suspension in stock form, Ford coils will stay put, yes. Sorry for the confusion.

Not really, no. I'm gonna guess 89-99 or so, they didn't change the Chevy frame or body much, if any through those years IIRC.

Correct. Slick, his VG30i is TBI: no fuel rails. The O2 sensor will not affect cold engine performance, it only comes into use when the engine's been warmed up. Try cleaning your MAF sensor. Make sure the hot air riser setup works properly on the bottom of the air cleaner. You have an 87, eh? Here's another possibility. The ECU's in 87's have a mixture adjustment screw on the back of the ECU...it's entirely possible that somehow it got out of adjustment. I can look it up in my FSM if you need the procedure. (provided it's in there)

Back on topic, please.

Cause he doesn't want to spend $5000 on a new t-case?

Pair of yellow 100W driving 1500's, pair of yellow 150W fog 70's and ion yellow 55W aftermarket headlight bulbs. Stock headlight bulbs are 45W for low beams. On the roof right now I have a pair of white 55W driving 540's. I have another couple pairs of 520's still, one pair of fogs in black and a pair of drivings in chrome, but the chrome ones need work. Broken mounting bolt, bulls-eye on one lens, etc.

It is worthy to note that the stock Nissan springs are about 280 lb/in rate (.50 wire diameter) while the JGC coils are a much stiffer 375 lb/in rate(.55 WD). (all rates approximate) Ford coils are more in the 600 lb/in range, WAY stiff. So replacing your stock coils with JGC coils not only lifts your vehicle, but improves it's load-carrying capacity by no small amount at the same time.

The F100 coils will fall out of the socket if you flex it enough off-road, though. (with no swaybar and longer shocks, that is) Also, they're like 600 lb/in coils, while the JGC coils are more like 375 lb/in.