88pathoffroad

Not to mention that nobody MAKES a spool for a H233B rear diff. Or a mini-spool, for that matter.

Someone help out here and put together a nice NPORA header pic. The one I made sucks and I'm not well-versed in Photoshop at all. Post all submissions in this thread and we'll vote for a winner! Ideally, the pic should be: about 150 pix tall x ?? wide? We can debate on the sizing, too. I'd like the WD21 2-door, 4-door, R50, and R51 all represented if at all possible.

Re-drill and tap the holes to fit some 7/16 head bolts. That's what I had to do.

Yep. Dealership only. There is no aftermarket for model-specific parts for Pathfinders.

The one in the back is for the rear wiper.

Yeah, for welding 1/4" plus material. Heh.

Pull the door panel and take a look inside. You'll figure it out if you can see what's broken.

That should work. You'll need to swap master cylinder, though. The drum one and the disc one have different internal pressure regulation. Oh, and the e-brake cables are different.

It's a rock bar/anchor. 6-foot utility pole anchor I cut the end off of and chisel-tipped. It's 1" solid steel. Good for prying, anchoring and otherwise impressing the girls with.

It's mostly a PITA, not dangerous. Unless the vibration is REAL bad.

A noisy rear diff is usually a sign that it's not going to last much longer. Are you sure it's the diff and not the brakes or bearings?

The master window switch tends to fail on these. Tried swapping it for another from a junkyard? Do the windows work individually with their own switch or no?

Sounds like there's a intertwined wire in the steering column or under the dash somewhere you need to fish out. D'oh.

The cams are all the same for every VG30E in the US engines. I've looked. The extra HP rating came from ECU and injection mods, plus I believe the automatic-equipped Maxies were rated lower than the sticks. Go figure.

Same exact block and heads for the VG30E in the 300ZX and the Pathfinder. Iron block, aluminum heads. I believe the water pump, crank pulleys, oilpan and dipstick location are the only differences between the two. No idea on the radiator fitment, you'll probably have to measure one to find out.

It makes it really hard to park sometimes, I can tell you that from experience. Don't weld up a diff just for fun if you can avoid it. It doesn't make for easy street driving at all, especially with big tires.

Is it the Bosch-relayed fog light setup with the yellow, black, green and purple wiring? Cause those are totally separate from the headlights, as far as I've seen. Do your fogs turn off when you turn the high beams on?

Yeah, check the inside edge of the wheels for taped-on weights, sometimes they just do that.

The amplifier is attached to the wiper motor. Small box on the front of it. You'd need to run two more wires from the switch through the firewall and up to the motor to run the intermittent option, unless yours has the wiring pre-assembled for it. Compare wiring in yours to one at the junkyard if possible.

Flash powder is good for a bang. 3.5g in a cardboard tube detonates quite nicely. And I do mean, "detonate", not "deflagrate" or "explode". One of those clears about an 8" circle of grass clean off the ground.

The factory alarm is under the driver's seat. I don't think unplugging it will work, but if you can weed out the ignition kill wiring inside the steering column cover, you can just unplug it and not have it at all anymore.

It occurs to me that there could have been a hairline crack in the radiator from the accident that only leaks when cold, due to the crack widening(from expansion/contraction)...but if it's fixed, I wouldn't go looking for anything yet.

You do know that the front brakes are the important ones that do 90% of the work stopping the vehicle, don't you?

I can walk the Pathy up most trails at Brown's Camp in 2WD with the locker. Jeep guys have 'em in 4-LO, locked front and rear, still can't get over the rocks.......sad.

Ew, you voluntarily went to a Firestone? D'oh. I second the shoddy work comment. First-hand experience with work trucks. BAD times when you get the truck back from the shop and it's worse than when you took it in. Do not the 00-up wheels need to be mounted on a hub-centric wheel balancer to get them done up properly? I seem to remember something about that being a problem with tire shops.