rgallant

Thanks for the replies, but I am missing something, maybe I am just denser than I thought but The stock factory stack for a 97 LSD is, starting at the side gear : FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/SP/SP The stock factory stack for a 94 LSD is, starting at the side gear : FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/SP/SD Where FP = Friction Plate FD = Friction Disk SP = Spring Plate and SD = Spring Disk. So we have alternating Friction disks and plates and never have 2 of the same together. So this should be the best starting arrangement, assuming you do not add plates. I am assuming adding plates or using thicker plates would give you a tighter LSD and therefore greater breakaway torque, perhaps this is the point I am missing ? If I am incorrect or have missed something in the large number of posts I have read on this topic, please correct me. I would like to this just once, and not break anything.

Interesting observation, new kitchen cabinets going in this week so I don't have a chance to pop the diff apart until the weekend. But the service manual shows that in both 97 and 94 diffs the friction plates and discs should alternate, starting from the same point. So if I understand your comment correctly, you are saying that in your case you had mostly friction discs ?

Admins please move if this location is not correct. My used LSD arrived, and seeing as it is out of a 2001 Pathfinder the breakaway torque will be quite low. There are a large number of posts on how to mod this but they tend to result in over packing discs to get a tighter LSD, giving a better chance of failure. So doing some research and examining a couple of service manuals 97 mine and 94 the selected end point I have come up with a simpler solution. Please bear with me if this is old news, here are the basics from the service manuals: 97 Diff torque 88-108 N-m 9-11 Kg-m 65-80 ft-lb Per side Friction Disc 5 pieces part #38433-C6002 to 003 reflecting different thicknesses from 1.48 to 1.62 Friction Plate 6 pieces part #38432-C6001 thickness 1.48-1.52 Spring Plate 2 pieces part #38435-S9200 thickness 1.48-1.52 94 Diff torque 353-392 N-m 36-40 Kg-m 260-289 ft-lb Per side Friction Disc 5 pieces part #38433-C6000 to 001 (the 001 is an adjusting plate) reflecting different thicknesses from 1.48 to 1.62 Friction Plate 6 pieces part #38432-C6000 thickness 1.48-1.52 Spring Plate 1 pieces part #38435-C6010 thickness 1.48-1.52 Spring Disc 1 pieces part #38436-C6000 thickness 1.48-1.52 As you can see from the information above the number and thickness of the components used in each differential is functionally the same, it only the actual parts used that differ. There is one other difference the ring and pinion gears in the 94 are 35/8 for a 4.375 geared rear the 97 is 48/11 with 4.363 gears which is interesting. Per side it would be about 100.00 to replace the parts with new OEM. Reviewing the service manuals for both diffs there is no other significant difference, the most difficult part of this will be setting up the clutch stacks so the correct amount of end play is set. That is it for today, I am currently working on sourcing parts and taking photos. There will be more to follow as I get fully into to this.

Sounds like an alternator to me too, but as adamzan said check the voltage at the battery. You are describing classic failing alternator problems, the battery "recharges' when the path is off and parked, once you start driving the alternator does not supply enough juice so the battery is slowly drained. Resulting in yellow headlights and not enough power to turn over your path once turn off until the battery comes up after sitting for sometime. You want to deal with this sooner rather than later as you can kill your battery.

Yup good honest shops are tough to locate, I am lucky as I have a good ex Nisan mech to do mechanical and a good buddy works in a tire shop, no price break but the work gets done right the 1st time.

LSD arrived today, many thanks Fleurys although you could have tossed that ARB unit in the box instead As soon as the new kitchen is in the diff goes in.

Just an update on this, after 2 months mine R50 is running fine. If you go the wrecker route, make sure to tap the canister with a screwdriver handler and make sure nothing comes out. Take the time to dismantle and clear the the Purge volume control valve,it will take about 20 minutes to do right, get all the carbon flecks out of there. Use a small flashlight to make sure. I used a shop vac and a lot of duct tape to clear the lines, from the engine end and gas tank end. If you take your time this should get you up and running with minimal problems.

Looks good by me

Clutch had to be done at a dealership, but then he is in Canada. Depending on where and who it took it to they use the dealer time and generally charge very nearly the same for labour. I found a decent guy where I am for anything that I can not do my self. But you had a clutch done so it is a manual transmission, you should not be having many issues beyond that unless you have seriously abused the transmission. I am talking dump the clutch and stall, stomp the gas and dump the clutch, really stupid stuff. I get the feeling you are being screwed over, have your mechanic drain and replace the gear oil. You might want something a tiny bit lighter for winter it makes those 1st few shifts on a cold morning easier. And find out what bearing they think is going. Oh and noone tears down a standard transmission they replace them, you can buy used way cheaper than repair.

Thanks guys, I am doing the wrecker call around thing, and most of them won't move their butt to check, so having some idea of models helps. Looks like a long day of wrecker visits in my near future.

Hi guys, Did a search and did not find an answer. Anyone have or know what model of R50 (pre 99.5) would have 4.3 gears and an LSD. The local dealership parts guy gave me a blank look, nothing new there. I would like to pop an LSD in my R50, but need a 4.3. Currently a locker is well out of my budget.

Too much electronics, my old Xterra did the same thing, Nissan guys could not figure it out for the the life of them. Basically they get to an age and just start to fail, there are a couple of causes, but yup we may see a bunch them go. Out of curiosity how much mileage on your Pathfinder ?

It is possible you have a failing cat, I know here in Vancouver they can cause air care fails. How do they test over there via ECU or with equipment in the tail pipe ?

Thanks for the Info and links, I had not thought of filling a tank to use with some basic airtools so a a little more research is required. I will update this thread with any info I find.

Works for me

Hi guys, I am looking to add a portable air compressor to my Pathfinder, one of those you hook up to the battery directly. But that I can can take out and pop into the car for those long trips. So far I am settling on one of these Q Industries MV50 SuperFlow Hi-Volume Air Compressor. Primary use is to inflate tires, while having air tools use would be nice I don't own any and have other things to spend money on. Any other suggestions or feedback would be helpful. I realize like all things you get what you pay for.

I don't suppose you have a code reader ? Also do you just pop the battery terminal off and then back on or leave it off a while. I also do not believe it is an ECU problem, it could be but it is unlikely.

Yup motor or transmission mount would be my bet, it means you have to get down there and take a look. Broken mounts are pretty easy to see, I know i am going to tell you how to suck eggs but make sure you leave to truck off when you check. If you can not not visually see a broken mount, put a a jack and 2x4 under the engine and lift it up, if it is a broken mount it will separate and be obvious.

Hey, it is most likely a fuse or relay all those items run off the accessory circuit. It is a 7.5 amp controls all of those #24 according to the manual, but check #10 and #4 as well. My bet is it toasted when you were playing with the other radio.

That's my plan for next year, a week on forestry roads. Hit every small lake that might have a trout in it. In theory you can go from Vancouver BC to Prince George just touching pavement for fuel, and to get to the next forestry road. It's about 800Km highway one way so should be a good trip.

In reference to the CV joints, I have done some checking but there is no good answer. The Aussies don't seem to have as many issues with CV joints so it maybe the way we wheel here. The problem seems to be the boot, unless something rubs at that angle. Basically the boot gets a hole (from friction rubbing) then road crud gets in and there goes your CV joint. The other possibility is the angle too severe causing binding and excessive wear, but that should not really be an issue unless we are way out side the suspension parameters. 2 inches "should" not be that much of an issue. I have not finished my research as yet but will post once I get a better understanding of the problem.

If the calipers are really old and ugly they can stick, one thing to try is pumping the brakes very lightly when it makes that noise. If it goes away it is most likely in the braking system. If not it could be a bearing but they tend to get worse not better as you speed up.

Has it got 4.6 axle and a LSD, if so I am interested in the LSD.

Hi I believe it clogs the valve, I am doing mine this weekend, got a complete unit off a wreck. So I can open the old valve and see what it up, my bet is the there is an idiot sensor in there that gets damaged by the charcoal.

Excellent write up, saved me a whack of cash too.