rgallant

Sounds like an alternator to me too, but as adamzan said check the voltage at the battery. You are describing classic failing alternator problems, the battery "recharges' when the path is off and parked, once you start driving the alternator does not supply enough juice so the battery is slowly drained. Resulting in yellow headlights and not enough power to turn over your path once turn off until the battery comes up after sitting for sometime. You want to deal with this sooner rather than later as you can kill your battery.

Yup good honest shops are tough to locate, I am lucky as I have a good ex Nisan mech to do mechanical and a good buddy works in a tire shop, no price break but the work gets done right the 1st time.

LSD arrived today, many thanks Fleurys although you could have tossed that ARB unit in the box instead As soon as the new kitchen is in the diff goes in.

Just an update on this, after 2 months mine R50 is running fine. If you go the wrecker route, make sure to tap the canister with a screwdriver handler and make sure nothing comes out. Take the time to dismantle and clear the the Purge volume control valve,it will take about 20 minutes to do right, get all the carbon flecks out of there. Use a small flashlight to make sure. I used a shop vac and a lot of duct tape to clear the lines, from the engine end and gas tank end. If you take your time this should get you up and running with minimal problems.

Looks good by me

Clutch had to be done at a dealership, but then he is in Canada. Depending on where and who it took it to they use the dealer time and generally charge very nearly the same for labour. I found a decent guy where I am for anything that I can not do my self. But you had a clutch done so it is a manual transmission, you should not be having many issues beyond that unless you have seriously abused the transmission. I am talking dump the clutch and stall, stomp the gas and dump the clutch, really stupid stuff. I get the feeling you are being screwed over, have your mechanic drain and replace the gear oil. You might want something a tiny bit lighter for winter it makes those 1st few shifts on a cold morning easier. And find out what bearing they think is going. Oh and noone tears down a standard transmission they replace them, you can buy used way cheaper than repair.

Thanks guys, I am doing the wrecker call around thing, and most of them won't move their butt to check, so having some idea of models helps. Looks like a long day of wrecker visits in my near future.

Hi guys, Did a search and did not find an answer. Anyone have or know what model of R50 (pre 99.5) would have 4.3 gears and an LSD. The local dealership parts guy gave me a blank look, nothing new there. I would like to pop an LSD in my R50, but need a 4.3. Currently a locker is well out of my budget.

Too much electronics, my old Xterra did the same thing, Nissan guys could not figure it out for the the life of them. Basically they get to an age and just start to fail, there are a couple of causes, but yup we may see a bunch them go. Out of curiosity how much mileage on your Pathfinder ?

It is possible you have a failing cat, I know here in Vancouver they can cause air care fails. How do they test over there via ECU or with equipment in the tail pipe ?

Thanks for the Info and links, I had not thought of filling a tank to use with some basic airtools so a a little more research is required. I will update this thread with any info I find.

Works for me

Hi guys, I am looking to add a portable air compressor to my Pathfinder, one of those you hook up to the battery directly. But that I can can take out and pop into the car for those long trips. So far I am settling on one of these Q Industries MV50 SuperFlow Hi-Volume Air Compressor. Primary use is to inflate tires, while having air tools use would be nice I don't own any and have other things to spend money on. Any other suggestions or feedback would be helpful. I realize like all things you get what you pay for.

I don't suppose you have a code reader ? Also do you just pop the battery terminal off and then back on or leave it off a while. I also do not believe it is an ECU problem, it could be but it is unlikely.

Yup motor or transmission mount would be my bet, it means you have to get down there and take a look. Broken mounts are pretty easy to see, I know i am going to tell you how to suck eggs but make sure you leave to truck off when you check. If you can not not visually see a broken mount, put a a jack and 2x4 under the engine and lift it up, if it is a broken mount it will separate and be obvious.

Hey, it is most likely a fuse or relay all those items run off the accessory circuit. It is a 7.5 amp controls all of those #24 according to the manual, but check #10 and #4 as well. My bet is it toasted when you were playing with the other radio.

That's my plan for next year, a week on forestry roads. Hit every small lake that might have a trout in it. In theory you can go from Vancouver BC to Prince George just touching pavement for fuel, and to get to the next forestry road. It's about 800Km highway one way so should be a good trip.

In reference to the CV joints, I have done some checking but there is no good answer. The Aussies don't seem to have as many issues with CV joints so it maybe the way we wheel here. The problem seems to be the boot, unless something rubs at that angle. Basically the boot gets a hole (from friction rubbing) then road crud gets in and there goes your CV joint. The other possibility is the angle too severe causing binding and excessive wear, but that should not really be an issue unless we are way out side the suspension parameters. 2 inches "should" not be that much of an issue. I have not finished my research as yet but will post once I get a better understanding of the problem.

If the calipers are really old and ugly they can stick, one thing to try is pumping the brakes very lightly when it makes that noise. If it goes away it is most likely in the braking system. If not it could be a bearing but they tend to get worse not better as you speed up.

Has it got 4.6 axle and a LSD, if so I am interested in the LSD.

Hi I believe it clogs the valve, I am doing mine this weekend, got a complete unit off a wreck. So I can open the old valve and see what it up, my bet is the there is an idiot sensor in there that gets damaged by the charcoal.

Excellent write up, saved me a whack of cash too.

Thanks guys, I was pretty sure it was, but it is nice to know before you have something shipped a couple of thousand miles.

Any ideas if they are compatible, they are both HG46 axles so they should just swap. But my mechanic says not always. Anyone done one? Yes I know a locker of some sort would be better, but I am more of a long distance kinda of guy 2 to 3 days out and back. So no crazy stuff where I need to walk out, the LSD would do for now.

I have an 97 R50 had a 2002 X, so here is my 2 cents. I would have bought another X but the cost here was significantly more, for anything in good shape. I travel mostly on old logging roads and goat tracks to get to good spots to fish. Both trucks got me there with not much fuss. The X feels more solid and at least mine sat a little higher than the R50, with a LSD in both I am comfortable going almost anywhere. I have been laughed at by guys in lifted, locked and overpowered trucks but I always seem to get by just fine. A couple of things support for Gen 1 X's is not that great, there are more options than the R50 but not a boatload. My supercharger never gave me any issues but you MUST run premium. Fuel mileage on the R50 is better. The frame is nice to have but check it very carefully for rust. One other thing here in BC X's are either in nice shape and expensive, or total junk and cheap, there does not seem to be a nice mid range.