rgallant

No real lift to speak of OME MD springs front and rear. I do not have the time swap the axles so I am getting them done. My mechanic figures it is about the same cost either way, but these have 230000k on them so I figured replace them and keep the old ones for spares. Phantom what brand was that axle that broke ?

Hi all, Finally lost a CV boot, as the labour to replace the boot works out the boot works out about the cost of an axle I am going to replace my axles. Are there any "bad" brands out there, stuff that has fails early etc. Also any beefier brands or brands with better boots. Thanks.

Hi there, quick test for you leave clutch out turn your key. You should get the same problem, pop the clutch in and it should turn over. If that idiot switch is failing you will get those symptoms. The bad news is it is just in front of the gear shift housing. So you have to crawl under there to check the wires if you look up from where the driveshaft meets the transmission you should be able to see it. By the looks of the manual you might be able to see it if you remove to console and look down. My R50 goes in for trailing arms Monday, I will ask the Mechanic if you can remove that switch without taking the transmission out.

Check your tail pipe, if you have black soot with a oily feel in there the cats are burning it up and it is coming through the exhaust system. On the earlier motor Nissan claims 1 liter per 1000 km is normal oil use on a high mileage (200000K+) engine.

No cellphone service of any kind when I get out in the bush. As per the OP I carry food, water, sleeping bags, first aid kit and Good hiking boots as well. The big one is making sure some knows the area you will be in and not going wandering off somewhere totally different. In my case 2 copies the backroads maps book with my primary route marked, one it the truck on at the house. Have a return time and keep to it. I tend to travel long distances 60+ miles out of cell service and rarely see anyone else so trip prep is important. The Spots etc are good, just remember in some places in the PAC northwest they do not work, pretty sure the locator always does. Last thing check you truck over the night before make sure it is in good running order. Last 2 trips out I jumped started one guy and helped a guy fix his flat spare, both at over 30 miles to the nearest help, getting into late evening.

Hi all, I have a bit of a weird front end vibration issue. Acts like a bad wheel balance vibration at 55mph through to about 60 then goes away. The tires have been checked for balance (high speed) no problems. Some times it is worse than others, not severe by any means but very noticeable. Then it seems to go away for a bit then comes back. Complete front suspension replaced. I suspect wheel bearings, but can anyone shed any light on this or suggestions ?

Just an update looks like it was small binding issue nothing too serious. My local mech took a look, everything seems fine. If anything goes south I will pass it along, but just to make sure I put the front end in the air and manually moved the tires, there was no obvious binding. Springs are OME Struts are KYB GR2 Bearing Kit from Napa everything except the stud section.

Nope you would have to replace them with a 90 to clear the bottom of the axle.

Hmm.. Weird I had the upper mounts and bearing replaced at the same time for that very reason, I did not want to have to worry about it. Ah well back to the shop to have them take a look.

Hi all, Just had my front end re done OME MD springs, KYB struts, NAPA bearing and top end bits. Had a squeak sort of similar to a hard turn at a stop where the tires rub the pavement. Appeared after about 90 km when turning the wheel at slow speeds, under 15 Kmh comes from the dvr side strut top. Hit it with some silcone and a drive down a nice wash boarded road squeak went away. Do I need to worry or is this just new bits settling in ?

Thanks guys, I do off road a lot so decent equipment is a good idea.

Hi all, Did a search came up with a little info, ball joints any preferred brand. Moog, ac, couple of others. Any one have any horror stories about mid priced ($50 to $60) range replacements. Also any brands with grease fittings ? Mine are about shot.

Depends on how bad the fronts are. I went the same route and the rake is somewhat bad but not terrible. I will try a get a picture up.

I agree, get your truck checked over and make sure everything works first. I passed 6 broken trucks, 50+k from anywhere and no cell service this long weekend. One waiting on a tow truck, love to see that guys bill. The others had help but at least 2 were going nowhere without a tow. Once you are happy nothing is likely to fail do your lift.

Axle seals, had the same issue on my old Xterra. Pain in the butt to do. Check the inside face of the tire, you may see some oil/grease there too.

Hi read through this http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11442&st=0&p=521246&hl=evap%20canister&fromsearch=1entry521246 It is a how to replace, but you can also check the state of your EVAP system in about 15 minutes buy following through it. Had the same issue turned out my canister was completely shot.

I can give a way to find it but repair depends on location. You will have to crawl under there and and wipe the lines clean, and make sure they are dry. Wrap a bit of toilet paper around each line and watch to see if your leak appears. If not turn the engine over a couple of times to get fuel n the lines. Check again and you should have the location. The bad news if one is that rusted out the rest are probably close behind, so you will need to replace the lot. BUT for the short term you could cut the line, use a pipe cutter not a hacksaw, remove the holed section and put some rubber fuel line in the gap. But that assumes the leak is somewhere you can get at the line to cut it. If not you could use Seals All around the hole and then slice piece of rubber fuel line and place over the hole, slit away from the hole and use a couple of hose clamps to hold the line closed.

Thanks, that's what I figured too but it is always nice to get some feedback, I only want to pull those struts out once.

Ok guys, get my front suspension parts organized. But looking for some input, I am going with OME front springs, but trying to decide on medium or heavy duty. Winch bumper is most likely out, but I will be adding steel skids over the course of this year. (big sharp rocks out here on the West Coast). I figure medium should do the trick, any input ?

That strut should not move, nor should the spring move just from turning the wheel. It has 7 bolts holding it in place no play should be there, my springs are at their end of life and I don't get that. Thing about the situation that spring is under compression from half weight of the front end it should not rotate, nor should the strut move. I maybe calling the sky is falling but it seems to me that is serious safety issue. It should be looked at, preferably by someone competent. I am thinking they missed some thing.

No it does not. It sits no lower than anything else, and even if it did reduce ground clearance by an inch you would be needing to rethink your driving if you are hitting it. Remember it is your truck not the governments, more power is not always the solution, and with a little effort and dedication you can even high center a tank. I have seen 2 an M60 and an Abrams, laughed my butt of as I drove by in ancient but still running jeep.

Thanks for the info Xplorx4, priced out the extras and they add about 200.00, just so people know that does not include the bearing and top cap that should be replaced by default. So I guess I am going your way pull them out visual inspect and hope all the odd bits are ok.

Thanks very much guys, no renting spring compressor here I have a tire shop the will do it for me for cheap. The plan is to buy the parts, build the new struts and then pop the old ones out and the new ones in. Just deciding between medium and heavy duty springs, kind of KMA bumper or not I hate budgeting issues. I will photo and document for the next guy.

Hi guys can some one direct me to a how to remove post. Did a search and did not find anything specfic. My rear springs are done, but considering one was completely shot the fronts have moved up in priority. I am a few weeks away but need to figure out if this is something I can manage on a weekend. Everything I have found so far is somewhat contradictory. Oh and because it will matter 97 R50 Thanks.

I guess it depends on your needs, I carry a variety of unsticking/lifting options. The high lift with the attachment to lift a tire is great for getting the body up off things when you are high centered or lift a tire up to get some stuff under when you drop into a big hole. Or get the body high enough to use one of the other options, it makes a pretty good hand winch too, just takes a week 10 days to move any distance. I have never had an issue with one moving all that much, BUT you do have to take your time in setting up to use it. I like the integrated bottle jack and jack stand idea, that could come in very handy.