rgallant

North American issue, people learn on autos so that is the largest part of the market. The manuals are tough to find, it took me a lot of looking to find one myself. I prefer them because the transmission almost never fails if you can drive a stick. Clutch sure, but that is a couple of hundred thousand Km issue. Cheaper to put in a clutch than rebuild a auto transmission. But they are a pain if you commute in heavy traffic.

Could be a distributor, do the misfire codes change for example cylinder 4 then next time 5 etc. I had a 2000 Xterra and had the same issues ran beautiful till it got hot then bang misfires all over the place. Wait for it to cool completely down back to running fine. Now you are going the other way, but a failing electronic component can do that. No one can really help the dealerships will just take your money and toss parts at it. You need to determine if you have a single cylinder problem or random misfire problem. The knock sensor is a result of the misfires, so you can rule that out. For codes if you get code 0302, that is cylinder 2 0303 would be cylinder 3 etc. If you get the 0300 that is random. Can you post the exact code ?

Just to add my 2 cents I have a 97 so a VG motor, and it seems a little peppier on higher octane 94 vs 87. Less sluggish at low rpms on hills.

Thanks, that what I figured when I crawled under there. But it is a lot easier to ask before you have everything apart and realize you missed something important.

Hi guys, searched and came up empty. Can someone direct me to a write for replacing these. I need to remount my bump stops at the same time, thinking a hole in the lower perch and a replacement bolt should do the trick. Thanks.

For 100.00 you can buy your own scantool, that is insane. My only suggestion is to find a good local small mech shop who has a scanner, most of them should. They are usually pretty good as they want your business. By the way it is a worth while investment, I use mine on the Pathfinder, my wife's ford, a buddie's honda works for all of them. The connector on R50's is industry standard, it should be no problem to pull a code.

Cool ! The half shaft spacers will be a nice add on. Being looking forward to the steel front skid too.

Check your rotors too, of one got warped it will cause that kind of vibration, rare but I have seen a time or too.

Nope Klondike too, there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to what units had a standard.

5 Speed here and 4.3 of course it is a 97.

A cat clogged enough to have that effect should toss a code. But a quick check is to get the truck running (at night) and up to operating temp and take a look underneath, they tend to glow a bit when they are completely clogged. Do you still have the smell of gas under the hood ? I am wondering if your evap canister could cause the same problem if it totally disintegrated, but once again you should get a code. The lack of code is a little baffling, almost anything major I can think of should toss a code, unless once the truck starts the code clears but it should not, you could tray checking the code right after a failed start and see if anything is there, just in case. Do a visual of your engine compartment, make sure you don't have any damaged wires, either from wear or rodent damage,rats and mice will crawl in there and chew stuff, trust me I know. The other thing is to download your Factory manual and follow through the trouble shooting steps, it all assumes you have their computerized stuff but it does have sections on testing without. It will help to narrow down the problem. It is possible you have an issue with the throttle body sensor, it can be checked with a multi meter.

Hi, The distributor usually goes the other way, works fine cold and fails once the engine warms up. Sort of a typical electronics thing. Check your air filter too just to be sure.

Hi, Yo uhave 2 fuses and a relay, the fuses on a 97 are #53 and 59 in the fuse/fusable link box and 2 grounds check them all.

Check the clutch fluid, if it is down you could have a bad slave cylinder, master or damper. If they leak you could get some spray on to a hot surface should not but it could happen. There is no way the gear oil in a standard can burn that bad, and still be as functional as yours.

I don't know if this an option for you but I have a US shipping address for my data recovery business, shipping to Washington state would be 19.43 for a pair of springs. I pay Customs and HST when they cross about another 30.00. The company I deal with does all the work and brings the stuff to their office, I just drive over and pickup and pay. You may be able to setup one of those, mine cost nothing to have. It would be worth it to get the springs.

Hi there, The basics assuming you have no issues. Check all your fluid levels your belts All lights (2 person job) headlights, turn signals, emergency, brake lights I warm mine up and crank the heat to make sure the coolant is flowing, blasts heat your good. tires examine and check pressure Spare drop it and check condition and pressure Make sure you have basic tools, jack, tire iron and they work Being up in BC in Canada 2000 miles can mean a lot of empty space and no cell coverage, so be prepared and it is winter. I know you are in the Eastern US but eh same rules apply

You symptoms are not in any way typical of a worn clutch, worn clutches are a problem all the time, and would actually be worse around town where you shift a lot.

For Modi, yup the "cut" sucks. I am out in the Fraser Valley with a 97, I have no issues on steep hills, at speed or otherwise. I would take a look at your front brakes my bet is they are overdue for a service. Simplest is pop a front tire and take a look at the rotors and pads, I am thinking you are in the iffy zone, if you commute in the gong show Vancouver calls a rush hour you might want to deal with this sooner rather than later.

Clutch fork is a really long stretch, that would tend to consistent, or may just weird vibration related don't see it though. The only other thought I had was water contamination in your fluid, this will cause the problem you have experienced. You can read up on this on the net it mostly effects brakes, but would have a similar effect on a hydraulic clutch, as I noted above it requires a complete bleed out of your existing system to correct. Good luck, and let us know the end result.

That is the big problem here in the Pac Northwest, picking the best tire. I go from hard packed dirt, sort of compacted rock with sharp bits, mud, and then to moss and grass in one day out. You sort of have to take your best guess. I need durable for the evil rocks but decent clearing too. I have a set of long trails right now because they were cheap, they do ok on the rock, bit squirrelly on wet moss, and not great in mud. But so far no stuck.

Ok, I understand the problem now, but your engine temp is tossing you a red herring assuming you get up to operating temp going to work the distance and speed difference should not matter, a closed hydraulic system is just that closed. The amount of heat increase from normal engine temp should not make a diff. I will check a few things, it is possible that as a result of the longer distance you shift more causing the problem , BUT I would expect it to occur over the course of several drives during the week. Checking the manual you have 3 possible problem areas, Master, Operating and Damper. You have replaced 2 of the 3, A master cylinder should last for far more than 2 years, I would tend to suspect crap in the lines, damaged lines (bulged) or a faulty Damper as you have not replaced that. However the recommended bleed procedure is to bleed at the operating cylinder and the damper. I would tend to do the damper 1st as it is higher up the lines then do the operating. You should use a lot of fluid, empty the reservoir at least twice each time and examine the stuff that exits for contamination. Check your lines the one that goes to the operating cylinder particularly for bulges or cracks and particularly the operating cylinder (the one underneath) for dust cover damage. You may need some one to pump the clutch while you watch that line to the operating cylinder. I will take a look at mine in the morning and locate the damper and see if it is a possible for it to come into contact with the exhaust.

Just a question so I understand the problem> You drive all year with no problem even though you have short trips, once the weather gets cold and you drive any distance the problem occurs ? I am assuming the usual pump the clutch a few times brings up the pressure. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere, but only being cold weather that seems unlikely. If you bleed the system in the winter does the problem go away or re-occur ?

A little more help here is a shot of the parts for those who have not been inside an LSD: The splined gear is where the axle fits, note the big hexagonal bolt shape. The friction disks are designed to lock to those "bolt faces" so they will always turn when the axle is turning, the plates are round and will spin freely without force acting on them.

Just a quick update, I have had a chance to open the diff up. As far as I could tell from the manual the assembly pattern for a 2001 was FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/SP/SP this is in fact correct. As noted above I am converting this to 94 specs by replacing the clutch packs. Parts search in currently underway,pictures to follow.

Hi there Thanks for reply, actually your thread is the one I found most useful. It seems the service manual assembly diagram and what is actually installed in the diffs do not match. I took my info straight from the service manual, you on the other hand have opened the diff up and have a different setup in your hand. It will be interesting to see what is in the one I have in hand. I will post images as soon as possible. Ok downloaded the 2002 service manual, no wonder we are having issues totally different clutch pack and you are right damm near no friction disks only 2. As far as I can tell the assembly patterns is FP/FD/FP/FD/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/FP/SP/SP. What is truly sad is they, and I quote, say to start assembly with a friction plate and then alternate, the diagram is exactly the same as in the other 2 service manuals. The part numbers are exactly the same as the 97, they just decided not to put the extra Friction Disks but replace them with plates. So my plan should still work out ok.