rgallant

Replaced distributor or parts ? If you did not know the state of the replacement parts /distributor you may have fixed nothing by the swap. Your original symptoms are very common of distributor failure, as is no spark. Cat failure will generally throw a code, prior to complete failure. ECU's could go flaky but they tend to just fail unless you have had an over voltage situation.

Glad to be of help, took me 3 weeks of cursing a blue streak to figure mine out. Just keep an eye on it for a couple of weeks, to make sure. Cause you know Murphy, 100 miles from nowhere and it will do the same thing.

Had an Xterra do that exactly the same issue get hot die cool down run like a champ, ended up as the distributor. Threw all kinds of codes but they were irrelevant as they were a result of the failing distributor. But a code reader is pretty much a requirement, far to many sensors and other electronics that can mess up and you can not diagnose those easily.

Check you hood for a small metal plate, that is where mine is. Weird place but at least I know.

Same here they work just fine. Kept my old units for backup in case I bend one, just need to replace the bushings so they are good to go.

I was going to use metal screen for screen doors. I think it is a case of "drive by nesting" they get up on the tire when I park at night see that nice inviting hole and scoot in. So anything that blocks access should work.

Hello all, I have a weird one for you I need to screen off my air intake. It seems the local rodents, I figure rats but could be squirrels, find the inside of the filter box a good nesting site. I did not take any photos but there was a good pile leaves and stuff in there. Although it is unlikely to create any problems I thought I should ask before popping the filter box out, wrapping the intake tube in screen and putting it back in place.

Check the torque on your wheel bearings too. I had a weird vibration, turned out to be a "loose' right wheel bearing last guy in there did not tighten it down correctly. You most likely got it right, as your issue in only in 4 wheel but never hurts to make sure.

That should be the connector for the breather hose, you need to add the hose back. Get a nice long one and get it up high, so no water gets in there.

On the rock crawling it does not matter how well you build it you will break stuff. I see dedicated customs rigs out west here break things and get towed home all time. Good advice was given as to doing the pro's and cons of your build. But I would suggest also thinking about cost and how serious of rock crawling you want to do. You may find no matter where you go with your build it will be expensive to repair when you break things.

When they took mine out, one had the rubber torn but the rest looked ok. But they were all shot the ride difference was amazing.

Wheel bearing ?

Toyota fits fine BUT they are centered with the lug nuts so you need to replace those too.

Yup start with the air filter and work out. You have to remember these things are not water proofed, any water in the engine compartment is bad. If you are crossing water, low range, 4WD, med rpms and slow speed. Keep the splashing to a minimum. Anything above the hub level is asking for trouble, if you have not taken care of the air filter and various electrical bits that are lower down.

Read here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11442&st=0&p=521246&hl=evap%20canister&fromsearch=1entry521246 I am running on my junkyard canister almost year later with no issues.

Define the type of trail/off roading you plan on doing. It makes are real difference. Mud, rock crawling, forest service roads/trails are all very different with very different requirements. For example my R50 is basically stock better springs (OME), larger diameter tires 16 vs 15, manual transmission and open rear diff. I travel long distances (100 to 300km a weekend) on forest service roads some of which are barely goat tracks with no problems. It is more difficult in the fall and winter with rain and snow and steeper climbs but still doable. This setup is useless for mud and climbing large obstacles,but works fine everywhere else.

I am considering this route myself, a couple of things you can get clutch packs etc but they are not cheap about 300.00 (In Canada) likely half that in the US. You can check your gearing on a plate in the engine compartment, just to make sure they are the same. And finally used LSD's in 4.6 are fairly common it the 4.3 standard version that are annoying to find. And for the locker you need the locker plus a compressor and air lines run, and properly crimped and joined or it leaks like a sieve. If you really don't plan on going off road, the LSD is cheaper BUT you need to adjust your driving style. The back end gets squirrelly in very slippery conditions rain, snow and ice. Once you are used to it is generally fine but it can bite you in the butt if you are not paying attention.

Nice pictures, you got closer to the snow than I did this weekend.

Hello all, Just an update on the axles, I replaced mine with A1-Cardones, new not on re-manufactured. Went out this weekend and did about 400 miles off road/plus about 100 on road to get to the start point. Off road was forest service roads, in everything from good to bad condition. Road conditions were heavy dust, rock fields, cross ditches, hard pack, overgrown with brush and WAY too much wash board. Temperatures ranged from 20 deg Celsius to 45 deg Celsius. No issues with the axles or boots. One issue came up on install the one axle was a little stiff, but once on the pathfinder is working fine. I will update again in about a month.

Have the ball joints looked at, if they are iffy or worn replace them at the same time. The sit right under the axle so if you got the axle out and they are shot it is simple to do them. You need to pull the axle to do them anyway.

Mine are on the way, will post images when they arrive. Along with brand, I will try to keep this up to date over the next 6 months.

You could get the parts or have one built but serious cost. In my case it is just age, I go for long trips off road, 2 to 3 days in summer 8 hours in the winter but it is mostly deactivated logging roads so nothing too terrible. Rock crawling or mudding I would consider it. At any rate went with new, no reman.

No real lift to speak of OME MD springs front and rear. I do not have the time swap the axles so I am getting them done. My mechanic figures it is about the same cost either way, but these have 230000k on them so I figured replace them and keep the old ones for spares. Phantom what brand was that axle that broke ?

Hi all, Finally lost a CV boot, as the labour to replace the boot works out the boot works out about the cost of an axle I am going to replace my axles. Are there any "bad" brands out there, stuff that has fails early etc. Also any beefier brands or brands with better boots. Thanks.

Hi there, quick test for you leave clutch out turn your key. You should get the same problem, pop the clutch in and it should turn over. If that idiot switch is failing you will get those symptoms. The bad news is it is just in front of the gear shift housing. So you have to crawl under there to check the wires if you look up from where the driveshaft meets the transmission you should be able to see it. By the looks of the manual you might be able to see it if you remove to console and look down. My R50 goes in for trailing arms Monday, I will ask the Mechanic if you can remove that switch without taking the transmission out.