rgallant

That should be fine as long as you are putting the same ratio back in, both front and rear diff have to have the same gear ratio. You will need to check and possibly reset the backlash (pinion and ring gear meshing) this is a big one it need to be right. Also remember LSD rated diff oil.

Some of them do that, it is a Nissan thing Same problem when it is cold the first couple of shifts are "sticky" until the transmission warms up. I had an Xterra do the same thing, my local mechanic ex nissan dealership guy says it is not that uncommon. The grinding would be more worrying to me. Try bleeding out your clutch hydraulics, just like brakes. The pedal should not stick down, something is binding or you have bad pressure.

Yup Split boots go in the trail box, they will get you home but most fail inside of 500 km. I carry a spare CV, a split boot and CV grease. So far I have not needed them but better safe than sorry. If you do carry a spare CV check the bolts every now and then, you can always hit them with some PB and make sure you can remove them before you leave home.

Replacing the distributor is easy maybe a 1/2 hour. There is no good test that I am aware of, I just ended up buying a complete unit and dropping it in. The problem is it is a sealed electronic package no way to get inside it. A Nissan mechanic might know of a way, but when mine was going the dealership was doing the parts toss to figure it out. I gave up on them after the 3rd trip and still having the same problem.

Just an small update, my local tire guy is going to get a tire in and pop it on my rim and we will see where we are. In the mean time I am picking up a single rim with less backspace from a local wrecker so I can test that as well. With luck this will be done this weekend 28 April and I can give him a bunch of money and have nice new tires.

Could be the distributor electronics crapping out, they work fine cold as soon as they get warm you get the same results. I had and Xterra with same symptoms, replacing the dist resolved everything. Basically ran fine cold, stop for even a few minutes then ran rough or not at all until it cooled down, then ran fine again. The problem is you get no useful codes to help you figure it out.

No easy answer, but a one inch long piece of metal is big. I hate to say it but I think you are to the pull it and inspect to see what is damaged. A 'crunch" from a diff is not a good noise. Alternately what does the piece of metal look like ? If you have an LSD it could be a failed plate rather than gear.

Just a small info update Stock Rims are a 15 x 7 with a +20mm Offset Stock 16 x 7's are generally the same recommended offset range is +20 to +8 A 16 x 7 rim with +7 Offset will fit a Pathfinder with 265/75/16 KM2's and a 2" Pedders Lift (Aus) The difference +20 to +7 is about a 1/2 an inch (13mm) That matches up with my eyeball measurement, I am taking a tire off tomorrow to get a more exact measurement but it looks like rim change or spacer is in order.

Doing research on tire widths was a pain, you have the right idea, it is basically rim and tire. So the same rim and different tire brands of the same size (ie 265/75/16 in my case) can vary by about 3/4 to inch in width. Every combination is different, buying on line when things are tight would be a nightmare. My local guy does has to order these in for me, but I won't have him order until I have my issues sorted.

I will most certainly keep this updated. The backspace/offset issue is the most confusing part of rims as they work together and it is not as simple as cool rims that fit my truck. The only thing worse is picking out a VHF antenna. If I am right my problem may be that my rims are slightly positive,in which case a wheel spacer would solve the issue as the size would be minimal .5 to .75 of an inch.

Thanks guys I am so close on my rims 4.5 backspace, Toyota alloys basically free. The mud thing does not bother me at all, I get that already it will just be worse. Nice to know you have that high a milage with no issues Xplorx4. I suspect this will be a case of have on fitted and see where I am.

Hi all, I have read everything on this site and far too many others to get a decent understanding of this issue. I know what I want, but I believe it is not likely going to happen. Note I don't need advice on tires, I like these what I am looking for is fitting advice. Basics 97 Pathfinder OME MD springs all round Current tire worn 265/70/16's about 29 inch high and about 8.5 wide Want Cooper Discovery ST MAX Problem They only come in a 265/75/16 this works out to a 8.5 inch wide by 32 ish inch tire. Given my setup will getting a rim with sufficient offset put undo stress on the front end. My concern is half shafts and bearings primarily. Assuming it will not I am correct in my understanding that I need a negative offset. That is negative offset pushes the centre point of the tire further out from the axle. Which ever offset I need can someone point me to a way to calculate it ? I would like to have the minimum required to fit the tires. A basic measurement with a tape measure suggests about 1 to 1.5 inches. I can deal with rubbing issues. I do have a backup plan if this is unreasonable,and very flame proof suit.

Just to add always start with a pull not a jerk, any time you wind up and try to jerk a vehicle out you are over stressing something.

Basically you get .75 over the original height with a heavier spring. So you don't tend to sag as fast or as much down the road. The only place to order who has a clue is North Shore Off Road and their price is pretty good as well. I may have this wrong but as I recall from my research there never was a 1.75 increase from new stock.

Sorry if I came off a little snarky, I just so tired of people telling me to get a real truck, as I wander about in the middle of no where. Love the pictures Rick13, but that is not what I think of as rock crawling. What you are doing is more like there is a good fishing hole up here and I am getting to it without walking! To me rock crawling is more like this : A friend of mine went out with these guys, and filmed. They can get in big trouble if they use actual creek beds but these are mostly spring runoff channels.

It is fine as a 4x4 for what 90% of those who off road do. If you rock crawl, like to play in deep mud or go places like MOAB no it is not the best choice, for those you want body on frame and over built. I am always astounded by the people who can not figure out how I get my Pathfinder the places I go. My answer is always the same the same way you got here. On topic though, the aftermarket off road market in North America is based around Jeep, Chevy, Ford and Chrysler. Everything else is an after thought.

I could be wrong but it could be bad canister, if I am remembering the code correctly. The canister is back by the gas filler,if it fails the charcoal breaks up and get in the lines. Check of charcoal particles in your vacuum hoses that lead to the valve. Check this post: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11442&st=0&p=521246&hl=evap%20canister&fromsearch=1entry521246

Just a note proper bolt on wheel spacers are not cheap either.

Nice Job!

Yup my wife prefers, RV style camping, but I try to get out at least once a month. It is nice to get away to the quiet. If you take a look you can do day trips that are a nice drive and get you out of the city for a few hours. Just stay far away from Stave Lake that is a gong show at best.

For Bruce check this thread out: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32665&st=0&gopid=615615entry615615

Nice light rack, thanks for the pics of the wiring run that helps a lot. One suggestion get some silicone around the wire entry point in the engine compartment. It will keep any water out of the inside, I know that is well up the firewall but it can't hurt seal it up a bit.

Excellent I will take a look for that

Well that won't work on a 5 speed,that is where the clutch master cylinder is. But it looks some wire goes through the fender space into the cab in that area so that might work, the other option might be drilling a hole in that area as there is not much there. Thanks for the suggestion

For OME springs check North Shore off road, in North Van. They had a decent price when I picked mine up last year. For a winch you don't have many choices the lack of frame means either a better bumper (bumper is not bad, shipping is terrible.) or a rear receiver mount into a good trailer hitch. I personally run without. The thing to remember if you are camping here in BC is most areas are accessible via FSR (Forestry Service Road) and most places you park are solid rock covered by moss. So getting stuck is more a case of poor route choice (been there) or taking route beyond your ability, baring cows and deer jumping out in front of you. Snorkel, pretty much looks nice but if you are that deep you will likely have other issues I would put that way down the list. Get your shocks and springs sorted out, keep your maintenance up, oil changes, tune ups, transmission service if you have an auto etc. And take a few drives to places you want to go. If you have GPS that will take it, the Backwoods mapbook on SD is great, with the hard copy book as a backup. Just be aware that the campsites they show may not exist anymore. I run a 98 with an OME lift and 16 inch rims and so far have gone everywhere I wanted to, with a few odd looks and questions as to how I got there. I am out in the Fraser Valley, done East Harrison to Boston bar then Lytton up past Gold bridge and down Whistler a couple of days of no pavement. West Harrison to Pemberton. All over the Hope/ Coquihalla area and when it was open Squamish to Indian arm. Hope to do the spine and west coast of the island this year and a week long run up to Prince Rupert via FSR if I can figure out fuel points.